Can Firewood ever get to dry?

[Hedgerow]

8/1 air to WOODGAS which boils off the wood @~500*f & if not properly burned results in creosote up the chimni,& or excessive unburnt CO fuel
basics= water boils @ 212*f, wood gasifies~@500*f, flame appears ~@1200*f, Simplified

That makes a lot more sense... All that given, I would think manufacturers would build stoves to run at least 20% over the "ideal" for safety reasons. Most wood I've witnessed being burned is far wetter than what I'd call ideal. How much over "ideal" do you think the average wood burning apparatus is running?

 

[pook]

That makes a lot more sense... All that given, I would think manufacturers would build stoves to run at least 20% over the "ideal" for safety reasons. Most wood I've witnessed being burned is far wetter than what I'd call ideal. How much over "ideal" do you think the average wood burning apparatus is running?

20% is ideal MC for wood but now u can get prefab,ultradry, biologs @~8% moisture? & ive read of "problems" supposedly related though not detailed.

 

[Hedgerow]

20% is ideal MC for wood but now u can get prefab,ultradry, biologs @~8% moisture? & ive read of "problems" supposedly related though not detailed.

This leaves me only one logical conclusion... I need a new chainsaw...:msp_biggrin: And a moisture tester...:msp_blink:

 

[pook]

This leaves me only one logical conclusion... I need a new chainsaw...:msp_biggrin: And a moisture tester...:msp_blink:

$ better spent on extra wood & letting it dry covered= chainsaw &MM aint gonna dry the wood,eh?

 

[Hedgerow]

$ better spent on extra wood & letting it dry covered= chainsaw &MM aint gonna dry the wood,eh?

I think I got those covered already eh?

 

[pook]

I think I got those covered already eh?

i'd say! what u burn it in?

 

[Hedgerow]

i'd say! what u burn it in?

Wood stove... Silent Flame W/pedestal and blower... My neighbors get a chuckle out of that wood shed...:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[CTYank]

IMHO:
1. No such thing as too-dry.
2. Nobody's yet mentioned stacking in firebox; this is important.

If you suspect, or have had, some very dry wood burn a bit more vigorously than you'd wish, a very simple "plan B" is to load the wood more compactly, with fewer/smaller airflow gaps between pieces. (Besides bigger pieces.)

Best of both worlds- quick lighting, long burn. Minimal draft-control fiddling.

I'd love to see rigorous study of this "20% MC" mantra. Until then, IMHO it's BS.

 

[upsnake]

No to derail the wood moisture content discussion but, do you have any more pics of your woodshed, Hedgerow? Mainly an overview picture. I am going to start building my this spring.

Sorry didn't mean to turn this into another show me your woodshed thread.

 

[Hedgerow]

No to derail the wood moisture content discussion but, do you have any more pics of your woodshed, Hedgerow? Mainly an overview picture. I am going to start building my this spring.

Sorry didn't mean to turn this into another show me your woodshed thread.

PM sent...:msp_wink:

 

[goanin]

I had the same question this fall

Our summers are hyper-dry. Wood does get near 5% moisture before fall.
This is the kind of wood I've burnt this winter. Burns hot and fast for sure. Lately, I've been taking wood from next winter's piles because I was starting to run out. It has around 20% moisture. The wettest wood I've ever burnt. And you know what? The fire looks more like in the American videos: When I mix those 20% pieces with the drier pieces, flames are softer and they tend to float in the air, and the wood breaks down more slowly. It heats well, but it's doesn't overheat immediately. Feels more controlled and looks better.
I know that in Humid areas such as in the east cost, wood that's considered dry and seasoned is rarely below 15%. I read the article on WoodHeat.org and I think it has a point..