deerefarmer23
ArboristSite Lurker
I am looking for a chain grinder to sharpen various chains i have, anyone have a model they recommend and a place to purchase it from? thanks alot guys....
chain grinder..
- Thread starter deerefarmer23
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Oh......
:deadhorse:
This topic has been murdered many times.
Many opinions as well.
Chain grinders ruin chains.
Files ruin chains.
People with chain grinders ruin chains.
People with files ruin chains.
I think that rocks ruin chains.
I file a little (I suck). I grind the chains when I get back to the shop.
There are 3 price ranges of grinders.
cheap, expensive, and really expensive.
Cheap ones sharpen chain (but not that well). It will cut, sort of.
Expensive ones sharpen chain better. It cuts okay, but a very careful file could sharpen it better.
Really expensive ones would make a chain with a knife edge.
-Pat :monkey:
:deadhorse:
This topic has been murdered many times.
Many opinions as well.
Chain grinders ruin chains.
Files ruin chains.
People with chain grinders ruin chains.
People with files ruin chains.
I think that rocks ruin chains.
I file a little (I suck). I grind the chains when I get back to the shop.
There are 3 price ranges of grinders.
cheap, expensive, and really expensive.
Cheap ones sharpen chain (but not that well). It will cut, sort of.
Expensive ones sharpen chain better. It cuts okay, but a very careful file could sharpen it better.
Really expensive ones would make a chain with a knife edge.
-Pat :monkey:
:deadhorse:
This topic has been murdered many times.
Many opinions as well.
Chain grinders ruin chains.
Files ruin chains.
People with chain grinders ruin chains.
People with files ruin chains.
I think that rocks ruin chains.
I file a little (I suck). I grind the chains when I get back to the shop.
There are 3 price ranges of grinders.
cheap, expensive, and really expensive.
Cheap ones sharpen chain (but not that well). It will cut, sort of.
Expensive ones sharpen chain better. It cuts okay, but a very careful file could sharpen it better.
Really expensive ones would make a chain with a knife edge.
-Pat :monkey:
Good post!
Just one add-on. I am the proud (sorry) owner of a Harbor Freight $39 grinder. Don't even waste the money on that thing! I can't see well enough to do a good job handfiling any more but even a blind person should be able to do better than that grinder.
Harry K
saxman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I also have had a Harbor Freight $39 grinder and had some success with it, it just does not have all the adjustments that the more expensive grinders have and it is plastic. I purchased an Oregon 511A from Amick's superstore online ( an AS member site). It is very well made and does a good job however it was about $270 if I remember correctly. You know how many chains you need sharpened in your cutting season and I guess you should do the math on taking them to a shop to be done or learning how to do it yourself and saving the $5-8 per chain charge. I just enjoy doing it and the convenience of having my own grinder.
Griffbm3
ArboristSite Guru
SAme price right now
Northern tool, and Baileys (Site Sponsor) have the same basic knock off grinder for $99. It is a knock off of the 511A. I would support Baileys, and teh grinder works well according to reports. I was looking for a grinder about 2 months ago, and people are willing to part with them, I found a brand new 511A that was still in the box for $150. Good Luck, I had an older Foley-Belsaw non-adjustable (similar to the Harbor Freight), but the 511A is truly a great machine.
Jason
Northern tool, and Baileys (Site Sponsor) have the same basic knock off grinder for $99. It is a knock off of the 511A. I would support Baileys, and teh grinder works well according to reports. I was looking for a grinder about 2 months ago, and people are willing to part with them, I found a brand new 511A that was still in the box for $150. Good Luck, I had an older Foley-Belsaw non-adjustable (similar to the Harbor Freight), but the 511A is truly a great machine.
Jason
Jim Shockey
ArboristSite Member
I got Nick the grinder and was satisfied with it, but as I read more on this form and learned a little more about sharpening I wanted to get a grinder that would grind into the chain and leave the burr on the back side and not on the cutting edge. I then bought the Maxx grinder and can adjust it to sharpen full chisel and all other chains except square ground chisel. The grinder does not take off more of the chain then you need to.It only takes of what you set it to take off. I keep my chain sharp and when I sharpen one of them, you hardly get any sparks at all, unless you hit something and have to go a little deeper to get it sharp. With the Maxx grinder I can sharpen both sides of the chain with out turning it and both side cutters are the same length and the burr if there is any is on the inside. I use Nick The Grinder now for the raker's and it keeps them all the same. My chains never get over heated, raker's are all the same height,cutters are all the same length,angles are all where I want them, and I get at least 2 or 3 times more sharpening per chain life as when I sent them out to get sharpened. Jim
Burr on the inside
With a 511/tecomec it is a simple matter to reverse the motor for the left cutters. I have mentioned this before on Arboristsite. DPDT switch, and some wiring with a bit of knowledge of motors....
-Pat
With a 511/tecomec it is a simple matter to reverse the motor for the left cutters. I have mentioned this before on Arboristsite. DPDT switch, and some wiring with a bit of knowledge of motors....
-Pat
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have the Maxx and pleased with it over all.
The 2 things it's got going for it is ambidextrous sharpening, like Jim said, and automatic chain lock. The 511A used to come from the factory with the reversing switch but someone decided we are too stupid to keep the sparks out of our eyes. There is an auto lock option (+$) for the 511A as well.
I wish the Maxx chain stop was a bit stiffer but you learn to work around it.
The 2 things it's got going for it is ambidextrous sharpening, like Jim said, and automatic chain lock. The 511A used to come from the factory with the reversing switch but someone decided we are too stupid to keep the sparks out of our eyes. There is an auto lock option (+$) for the 511A as well.
I wish the Maxx chain stop was a bit stiffer but you learn to work around it.
ktm rider
ArboristSite Guru
Well, if you don't do this for a living and only cut your own firewood why buy the expensive one?? I have the Stihl hand held sharpener that I paid $39 ( that is thirty nine dollars ! lol,, just a joke from the last time this was posted)
Anyhoo, it works really well and it can be taken to the field with you and it simply hooks to any 12v battery ( truck , quad, whatever) It is so easy to use even I can use it successfully.
Anyhoo, it works really well and it can be taken to the field with you and it simply hooks to any 12v battery ( truck , quad, whatever) It is so easy to use even I can use it successfully.
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a 511A that I can mount on the back of my truck and use a 12 v battery and converter so that when I'm cutting in the woods I always have a sharp chain.
By the way grinders don't ruin chains I think that is the operator that doesn't know what they are doing. Is there a site out there that gives step by step on sharpening a chain?
By the way grinders don't ruin chains I think that is the operator that doesn't know what they are doing. Is there a site out there that gives step by step on sharpening a chain?
grandpatractor
Addicted to ArboristSite
Imho
The chain grinder from northern tool is a good deal.
I prefer a file, and just use the grinder for badly dulled chains and ones that are uneven.
The chain grinder from northern tool is a good deal.
I prefer a file, and just use the grinder for badly dulled chains and ones that are uneven.
hornett22
Addicted to ArboristSite
i have the stihl HOS grinder.i love it.
i would have bought the Maxx as well.i don't like cheap tools but it's your money this time.
i would have bought the Maxx as well.i don't like cheap tools but it's your money this time.
OilHead
ArboristSite Guru
My local Stihl dealer is now charging $.50 per tooth to sharpen chain. They take the chain and put it in a bucket with water & Red Devel drain cleaner . After a couple hours it goes into the parts washer to neutralize the solution then blow off & grind. Puts some oil on it & into a sandwich bag. If you decide to try Red Devel drain cleaner be extra carefull as one drop in the eye will burn the lens resulting in loss of sight for life.
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
$.50 per tooth? That can be more than what they cost new depending on the chain.:monkey:
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
I think someone was going to post the nitty gritty of doing the reverse mod but I don't think they got around to it. Care to start a thread and do a step by step?
The only thing I've found that I don't like about the NT 511 copy is that it isn't exactly the most accurate thing. Lengths change pretty drastically when changing from left to right cutters and you have to readjust.
Ian
WPanhandler
ArboristSite Operative
I have used this information/manual I believe that the information you requested starts about page 23 [for the vanguard chain {3/8 low profile}]. I have found it useful for more than just sharpening chains. all this information can be downloaded and is in Adobe PDF format.
http://www.oregonchain.ca/tech/manual_maint.shtm
This should help you with what you want and need. I know there are other sites out there but this one gave me the info I needed regarding sharpening. it also has a couple of pages that has ALL the sharpening angles for all the oregon chains, for both hand held files and grinders.
