Chain Tightness??

[Dale M]

Hi. Ok this may sound like a dumb question and maybe it is but Ive heard so many stories from friends that know zip about chainsaws that I thought Id ask the Pros..
Soooooo How tight should the chain be?
Ive heard tight is good, no sag. should be kinda hard to pull around the bar but not bind,that I can do . I have mine tighted up pretty tight, I can pull the chain down and see the bottom of the drive links but thats pulling pretty hard,,,
I have heard a dime should fit between the edge of the chain and the bar. but is that pulling down hard?
Thanks
Dale M

 

[Rotax Robert]

Your chain is to tight. With the chain warm about 1/2 of the driver should show on bottom of bar and cold I show about 1/16" to 1/8" on bottom of the bar.(without pulling) It's mostly just by feel more than measuring. Hope this helps.

Rotax Robert

 

[skwerl]

no sag, no drag. Snug enough not to sag but still loose enough to spin easily by hand. If your sprocket is worn, the chain will get tight and then loose then tight again as you try to spin it due to slop in the sprocket.

 

[Elmore]

It's gotta be pretty tight but not too tight. Below is a link to an Oregon Chain PDF file that may be useful.

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf

 

[Marco]

If you clean your saws up and get them ready for the next days work in a warm area during extreme cold weather you would want to set them a little on the loose side so they don't bind up when exposed to the cold.

 

[Sprig]

I have been always told (and have followed said advice) that you pick up the center of the chain and you should not be able to see the bottoms of the dribverrss (err, drivers) not too much pull though,this advice through many years has always given me the right tension. If I am wrong in this please tell me.
Greetings, Serge

REM, Dispite what peeps say new chains stretch, so it is a great idea to check your tension every few cuts, you'll be happy you did. Nuff said.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

no sag, no drag.

I don't think I've ever heard it put so well.

Get an owner's manual for whatever saw you're talking about. It'll be covered in there. But remember, the chain has to be able to move and come up a bit out of the rail to properly cut. That's how it's designed.

Jeff

 

[Rspike]

It's gotta be pretty tight but not too tight. Below is a link to an Oregon Chain PDF file that may be useful.

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf

Good post on the PDF file

 

[stihlgoin]

FYI -- Just some advice that I have always followed from my dad when it comes to checking if it's too tight...

If you can't pull the chain by hand dont try to start the saw, its TOO TIGHT.

Loosen it up alittle first and readjust after you know its warmed up but NEVER try to start it if she's too tight.

 

[1Alpha1]

About a year or so ago, the chain on my little Poulan saw was too tight. The saw wouldn't idle on it's own, as the tension on the chain was stressing the clutch and putting pressure on the crankshaft.

It only took me a minute or so to figure out the problem. Loosened the chain a tad and it then idled like a champ.

 

[ozflea]

Don't forget to hold the tip of the bar up as your adjusting the chain, for if you adjust it with the bar down it will (thats the bar of course) vibrate up under working conditions and loosen the chain.

Mc Bob.

 

[1Alpha1]

Don't forget to hold the tip of the bar up as your adjusting the chain, for if you adjust it with the bar down it will (thats the bar of course) vibrate up under working conditions and loosen the chain.

Mc Bob.

Good tip, and I did just that.

 

[SawTroll]

no sag, no drag. Snug enough not to sag but still loose enough to spin easily by hand.

Don't forget to hold the tip of the bar up as your adjusting the chain, .....

Those two statements sums it up pretty good for a sprocket nose bar imo.
I have been guilty of over tightening in the past, beeing ignorant of the "no drag" part of it.

Also be aware that on some (or most, or all ??) saws, tightening the bar nuts after adjusting will increase the tension. Only experience with the saw in question will tell you how much you will have to compensate for that.

If you have a hardnose bar, it should be looser (but don't ask me how much).

 

[bump_r]

Waht about slackening?

First I ever heard of it was reading the Stihl manual - figured these guys should know, so I follow it rigorously - do you pros loosen bar nuts and chain tension at the end of the day so the chain does not contract as it cools, stressing crankshaft?

Makes sense, takes little time, and can potentially add longevity.

 

[wagonwheeler]

Non-pro reply here, FWIW.

Adjust it before cutting and it'll be fine when it cools back down. If you must adjust it after it warms up from running, then I would back it off when done.

I have had to loosen the chain *before* use because of a temp drop. So *always* check the chain before/during/after use to be sure.

Chaser

 

[skwerl]

First I ever heard of it was reading the Stihl manual - figured these guys should know, so I follow it rigorously - do you pros loosen bar nuts and chain tension at the end of the day so the chain does not contract as it cools, stressing crankshaft?

Makes sense, takes little time, and can potentially add longevity.

By keeping my chain razor sharp, it doesn't get hot and stretch while cutting. Many times I can run a saw for 2-3 tanks of fuel and the chain will still be properly tensioned. So therefore my answer to your question is 'no'.

If your chain is dull and heats up while cutting, you need to get better at filing a chain. Trying to tighten up a hot, dull chain and keep cutting, then loosen it up before it cools down is nothing more than abuse of equipment in my mind.

 

[pinus]

My experience is that in summer the chain should be a little more loosen than in winter. In summer the bar warms up more and the chain tension is rather rising during sawing. In winter chain tension remains more-less constant durin the working.

 

[scottr]

Seal

About a year or so ago, the chain on my little Poulan saw was too tight. The saw wouldn't idle on it's own, as the tension on the chain was stressing the clutch and putting pressure on the crankshaft.

It only took me a minute or so to figure out the problem. Loosened the chain a tad and it then idled like a champ.

Dano , you might want to check the clutch side seal for wear .

 

[West Texas]

By keeping my chain razor sharp, it doesn't get hot and stretch while cutting. Many times I can run a saw for 2-3 tanks of fuel and the chain will still be properly tensioned. So therefore my answer to your question is 'no'.

If your chain is dull and heats up while cutting, you need to get better at filing a chain. Trying to tighten up a hot, dull chain and keep cutting, then loosen it up before it cools down is nothing more than abuse of equipment in my mind.

Skwerl, a buddy of mine are in slight disagreement on how to perfect the sharpening of a chain on the saw. I tilt the handle end of my file down a little and make an up and forward push of the file, at a 35 degree angle. He says that he gets a sharper chain by pushing the file in a horizontal manner, and allowing the chain to tilt back slightly as he pushes the file through. Your comments? Tom

 

[skwerl]

Hey Tom,
Some chains specify a 10 degree angle and others specify horozontal. I've found very little difference either way. I think I have my handle tilted down slightly but the most important thing is to keep your filing strokes straight and smooth, maintaining consistency from the first tooth to the last. If every tooth is sharp and all are identical, a couple degrees one way or the other won't make a noticable difference IMO.

Now race chain is a different story, I have no experience there. Just regular work chains sharpened freehand with a round file for me.