Chainsaw grinder vice centering

[Allar]

Hey friends,
I have a tecomec - jolly evo grinder and out of the box it's more aggressive on one side than other. It does have the scale on the side.
The manual is useless and so are the Oregon videos regarding centering the vice.

On the video they clamp a straight edge in the vice and tell you to lower the grinder but doesn't say how far...should the wheel touch the vice or should i set the depth first with a chain in the vice.

I need my chain teeth to be spot on because i use it on a mill and i can't find a progressive gauge for 3/8lp, Husqvarna sent me the kit with a seperate non-progressive gauge even thought on the picture the roller guide had the depth gauge attached to it. And sadly the new Stihl gauges doesn't seem to be available here yet.

 

[StihlWORKing G]

Hey friends,
I have a tecomec - jolly evo grinder and out of the box it's more aggressive on one side than other. It does have the scale on the side.
The manual is useless and so are the Oregon videos regarding centering the vice.

On the video they clamp a straight edge in the vice and tell you to lower the grinder but doesn't say how far...should the wheel touch the vice or should i set the depth first with a chain in the vice.

I need my chain teeth to be spot on because i use it on a mill and i can't find a progressive gauge for 3/8lp, Husqvarna sent me the kit with a seperate non-progressive gauge even thought on the picture the roller guide had the depth gauge attached to it. And sadly the new Stihl gauges doesn't seem to be available here yet.

I had one of them. It was a piece of crap! I sold it and now I have A Silvey. Works great. Jeff

 

[Mike Kunte]

Hey friends,
I have a tecomec - jolly evo grinder and out of the box it's more aggressive on one side than other. It does have the scale on the side.
The manual is useless and so are the Oregon videos regarding centering the vice.

On the video they clamp a straight edge in the vice and tell you to lower the grinder but doesn't say how far...should the wheel touch the vice or should i set the depth first with a chain in the vice.

I need my chain teeth to be spot on because i use it on a mill and i can't find a progressive gauge for 3/8lp, Husqvarna sent me the kit with a seperate non-progressive gauge even thought on the picture the roller guide had the depth gauge attached to it. And sadly the new Stihl gauges doesn't seem to be available here yet.

Hey, Allar!

I too use the Oregon/Tecomec grinder. I have the 620 with the hydraulic vise. The Oregon video showing the vise centering is quite informative. In case you have not seen the one I'm thinking of, it shows how a steel rule can be clamped into the vise jaws so that it extends up past the centre of the wheel, with the grinder pulled down to 90 degrees. The vise can then be adjusted until the straight edge runs through the centre of the wheel arbor. The reason I mentioned my hydraulic vise is that this back-and-forth adjustment of the vise is also how this model allows one to adjust the "up" and "down" angles of the teeth, since it lacks the "tilting" feature of the vises on the smaller models. This kind of limits one's options for centering the hydrtaulic vise...

Hope this helps!

Mike

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I've always just fine tuned the grinder when switching sides. Not a bit deal.

 

[heimannm]

If you only, ever grind one size (pitch, gauge, cutter type) and brand of chain you can go to the trouble of really fine tuning the position to get it centered exactly. If you frequently grind different sizes (different pitches), different gauges, different cutter types, and different brands just do what Choppy recommends and figure out which cutter (RH or LH) is routinely shorter and grind that side first each time, then match the other when you switch sides.

Mark

 

[Wyrdman]

Just got an oregon 520 grinder which is made by the same company. I noticed as soon as I began using it that the depth stop is maybe not as stuff as I'd like. With a bit more or a bit less pressure the grinding wheel height ends up being slightly different, which is probably not going to do the best job of setting the depth gauges. I noticed there's a slight gap between the base plate and back plate here that is squishing closed after the depth screw hits the stop. do you have anything like that happening with yours or is the depth stop totally rigid and solid with a bit of pressure on it?

 

[Allar]

Actually the only difference between these two grinders is the depth stop. The depth stop on your machine is a lot better than on the tecomec branded one.
I had a oregon clone with that type of depth stop and it was really rigid but the one on tecomec is completely different system and is not rigid at all.
Just use a softer touch

 

[Wyrdman]

with the back knob tight there's a 1/16" space between the black and gray pieces in the circle. So that 1/16" gap disappears with downward pressure on the stop. like the black or gray piece there isn't flat and its allowing the black piece to rock downwards despite the clamping knob 3" above that. lol I'm trying to gauge my chances of getting one without that problem if I exchange it. Eh I'll just tune it up somehow