christmas money! recomend me some good spurs

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i was thinking of staying with the klein spurs. i found a pair of tree gaffs with stiff wraps from wespur for $200.
 
My biggest problem with the Kliens is they just murder the inside of my ankle bone. After i get done climbing for an hour or two, my inner ankle is already soar and black and blue.
 
My biggest problem with the Kliens is they just murder the inside of my ankle bone. After i get done climbing for an hour or two, my inner ankle is already soar and black and blue.

Does your ankle make contact when level in the stirrup or when your foot flexes for and aft? What have you tried to remedy this - different boots, wrapping the straps on the shank, padding?

This site has experts on saw specs, porting, rigging, chippers, splicing, etc. but it seems lite on objective climber knowledge, certainly the climbers that cost less than $300. I would have thought a business owner or crew chief with experience outfitting employees would have some observations to share. My personal friends in the business (3 different companies) only use Buckingham steels and have no hands on knowledge of other brands. These guys are very experienced but lack knowledge of modern methods and equipment - dont know what a Blakes or VT is, porta wraps are a gimmick... so I am more interested in thoughts here.

One friend swears by his Bashlins w cushion wraps but, of course, those are a bit much for beginners and part timers.

I maintain some properties and my paintball field must be kept clear of windblown and widow makers. (Dead customers don't spend as much.) Little can be done with tractor and winch without destroying buildings and bunkers. I've done OK spurless and with the antique climbers but an upgrade to something useful without breaking the bank is in order. My money has thus far been spent on mid-grade harness, lines, hardware, flipline, etc.

If I take a tree service job this spring I'll buy some cushion wraps w steel insert or drop money on Geckos as is often advised for pros. Around here, take-downs put the food on the table, so comfortable spurs make sense for daylong use.
 
what cushions would you recommend to me? my stiff wraps seem a bit awkward to my likings. the rims of the leather kinda dig into my calf.
 
Does your ankle make contact when level in the stirrup or when your foot flexes for and aft? What have you tried to remedy this - different boots, wrapping the straps on the shank, padding?

This site has experts on saw specs, porting, rigging, chippers, splicing, etc. but it seems lite on objective climber knowledge, certainly the climbers that cost less than $300. I would have thought a business owner or crew chief with experience outfitting employees would have some observations to share. My personal friends in the business (3 different companies) only use Buckingham steels and have no hands on knowledge of other brands. These guys are very experienced but lack knowledge of modern methods and equipment - dont know what a Blakes or VT is, porta wraps are a gimmick... so I am more interested in thoughts here.

One friend swears by his Bashlins w cushion wraps but, of course, those are a bit much for beginners and part timers.

I maintain some properties and my paintball field must be kept clear of windblown and widow makers. (Dead customers don't spend as much.) Little can be done with tractor and winch without destroying buildings and bunkers. I've done OK spurless and with the antique climbers but an upgrade to something useful without breaking the bank is in order. My money has thus far been spent on mid-grade harness, lines, hardware, flipline, etc.

If I take a tree service job this spring I'll buy some cushion wraps w steel insert or drop money on Geckos as is often advised for pros. Around here, take-downs put the food on the table, so comfortable spurs make sense for daylong use.

If i use winter boots i'm ok (i believe because of the extra padding) but in my normal summer work boots my ankles don't stand a chance. I myself have been eyeing up the climb rite climbers because of the straighter shaft and the Bashlin style gaff.
 
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