torence 20
ArboristSite Operative
is there any way you can test a coil to see if it is working. other than pulling the cord and there either is or is not spark
coils
- Thread starter torence 20
- Start date
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seems like there should be some resistance through the windings. try an ohmeter
torence 20
ArboristSite Operative
what do test on it tho. the steel to the cap or what?
MadMax5578
ArboristSite Guru
You could always take a trip to your local Auto store and buy a spark-tester. They have one's at Napa for under $10.
OR, you could always undo the plug (with the plug boot still on it), hold the plug on the top of the cylinder and give a pull to see spark....
OR, you could always undo the plug (with the plug boot still on it), hold the plug on the top of the cylinder and give a pull to see spark....
torence 20
ArboristSite Operative
ive got plenty of spark testers, i dont have a particular coil in mind im just curious, i just wanted to see if there was a way to test one for sure other then replace it and if the new one works the old one is bad
How about this case senerio? Your saw starts fine and runs to it gets hot and it starts to break up from the coil getting hot. I have a Husky 266 that starts fine runs less than a minute and starts popping more than likley it will need an ignition module. The only way I know if that is the problem is to install another one and see if it runs right.
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Is it a coil or a module? If it's a coil it can be ohmed out if you can find the ends; one side should be ground, then find where the points wire hooks to it. Put it on a low ohms setting or it'll show a short. Coil should just be a few ohms. If it's a module it would be hard to check with an ohmmeter because there are other components in there besides a coil and you're probably just checking across some of the components. Best just check a module by installing a known good one and comparing to yours.
I didnt think of it a coil being different than a module. Modules have stuff like trigger mechanisms in them and soforth. A Husky 266 has a coil and a module. They have two different pieces.
The workshop manual for the 266 is very helpful for testing the ignition..............basically if she don't work right, change the module, if that doesn't fix it change the coil, in seven languages.
(in seven languages)
Exactly, the module on the 266 for example works as a triggering coil, which establishes the timing.
unfortunately many coils are not available or are hiding out. without specific data on coil voltages can't even try different types much less substitute a known good one. kinda expensive to have one rewound. kinda like the old up the creek scenario.
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've been thinking about this question for a while.
What goes wrong in a coil for it to quite working? I know about the insoulation of the wire breaking down..... Are there other things that cause a coil to fail?
What goes wrong in a coil for it to quite working? I know about the insoulation of the wire breaking down..... Are there other things that cause a coil to fail?
Anyone on here think the following problem is coil related? --> My McCulloch runs good, and will run and run. However, when I shut it off after making my cuts, or to fill the fuel and bar oil tanks, it has to cool off for a least a half hour before I can start it up again. I'm thinking coil, because I've heard a few stories about them failing when hot, but working fine when cool. Does that sound like the problem?
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Vibration, heat, and a few other issues. The first two lead to the problems you describe. The few other issues, well, I dunno what they are... someone fill us in on this.
i would think if the coil was going to shut off because of the heat it would do that at some time before you have to shut down to refuel. i'm sure it gets hotter while sitting after running but that doesn't lead me to think coil. curious
