cold bathroom

[timg]

Hay yall. I am enjoying my OWB for the 2nd year now. The only problem I have is the back bathroom is cold due to the distance from the main trunk line and also air flow. I installed a duct booster fan and that helped but to get this room warm the other parts of the house is hot.
Thinking about a baseboard hot water heater just in that room with it own thermostat. Any ideas on how to do this with only the 2 lines from the OWB.
thanks
timg

 

[loadthestove]

kickspace heater

I ran into the same problem in my house and used a kick-space heater.
These are truly amazing little heaters and are not very expensive and tying them into a system is very easy.


http://www.needplumbingsupplies.com...rch=Yes&Advanced=Yes&keyword=kickspace+heater

 

[ray benson]

see if this works
http://www.needplumbingsupplies.com...asp?Search=Yes&Advanced=Yes&keyword=kickspace

 

[Suz]

Hay yall. I am enjoying my OWB for the 2nd year now. The only problem I have is the back bathroom is cold due to the distance from the main trunk line and also air flow. I installed a duct booster fan and that helped but to get this room warm the other parts of the house is hot.
Thinking about a baseboard hot water heater just in that room with it own thermostat. Any ideas on how to do this with only the 2 lines from the OWB.
thanks
timg

I know it is bad to talk about alternative sources of heat when on a wood burning site, but you could consider putting in a small electric baseboard heater in the bathroom. Being a small room it shouldn't take that big of a unit and they are reasonable in cost, easy to install, and probably wouldn't cost that much to run.
I think it would be a lot more reasonable than trying to put in a second zone for your OWB just to heat the bathroom.

 

[pook]

blowing cold air along the floor to the heated area worx better. I use a dehhumidifier blowing @ the bathroom window for showering

 

[CountryBoy19]

I know it is bad to talk about alternative sources of heat when on a wood burning site, but you could consider putting in a small electric baseboard heater in the bathroom. Being a small room it shouldn't take that big of a unit and they are reasonable in cost, easy to install, and probably wouldn't cost that much to run.
I think it would be a lot more reasonable than trying to put in a second zone for your OWB just to heat the bathroom.

This ^^^

We have the same problem. Our master bathroom is located on the corner of our house that is most exposed to the wind, and it is quite large, yet they put a small duct in it similar to one you would put in a closet. The bathroom is always frigid. We just use a small 1500 watt heater in there in the winter. We only turn it on when we need it warmed up. When we want to take a shower we'll go turn it on about 20-30 minutes prior and the bathroom will be pretty warm by the time we get in there.

I plan to correct this problem eventually with a planned partial bathroom renovation that is going to expose the the main trunk of the duct-work so I can run a larger duct at that time. The heaters work great for now though.

ETA, don't pay any attention to the spammer above me. He has absolutely no idea what he is talking about 99.9% of the time.

 

[Suz]

Here is another hint for anyone who has hydronic heat and is going to remodel their bathroom.
If you can do it, put a loop of copper pipe or pex-tubing under your tub. This keeps the tub nice and warm so your feet, or butt, doesn't touch the cold cast-iron or steel when you get into the tub. This also worked with the fiberglass tub unit that we put into my Son's house.
Plus the tub will act as a big register. However, make sure the pipe doesn't actually touch the tub or it might cause some hot spots especially if the bathroom is at the beginning of your zone. (My bathroom is at the end of the loop so the water isn't at it's high temperature.)

 

[pook]

This ^^^

We have the same problem. Our master bathroom is located on the corner of our house that is most exposed to the wind, and it is quite large, yet they put a small duct in it similar to one you would put in a closet. The bathroom is always frigid. We just use a small 1500 watt heater in there in the winter. We only turn it on when we need it warmed up. When we want to take a shower we'll go turn it on about 20-30 minutes prior and the bathroom will be pretty warm by the time we get in there.

I plan to correct this problem eventually with a planned partial bathroom renovation that is going to expose the the main trunk of the duct-work so I can run a larger duct at that time. The heaters work great for now though.

ETA, don't pay any attention to the spammer above me. He has absolutely no idea what he is talking about 99.9% of the time.

so u gotta wait 15min. be4 taking a dump? LOL

 

[timg]

good info yall
Thanks
MERRY CHRISTMAS to all
(yea i said it, no happy holiday for me)
AND TO ALL A WARM HOME
timg and family

 

[pook]

good info yall
Thanks
MERRY CHRISTMAS to all
(yea i said it, no happy holiday for me)
AND TO ALL A WARM HOME
timg and family

2u2!....If going for electric heater, a quartz or halogen radiant heater shines the heat onto the object better than a convective heater. This allows for sitting on the throne & not having to wait 15 min. for the dump to open.

 

[CountryBoy19]

so u gotta wait 15min. be4 taking a dump? LOL

No, I use the other, warm bathroom for that. Where did you see in my post that I said I have to wait to use the restroom? I said we turn the heaters on before we go take a shower.

You could certainly leave them on all the time if it's that big of a problem, but we choose to leave them off to save energy. It's pointless to heat a bathroom that is only used to shower and get ready for the day.

 

[pook]

No, I use the other, warm bathroom for that. Where did you see in my post that I said I have to wait to use the restroom? I said we turn the heaters on before we go take a shower.

You could certainly leave them on all the time if it's that big of a problem, but we choose to leave them off to save energy. It's pointless to heat a bathroom that is only used to shower and get ready for the day.

y'all better intake the load with a 15min. interval so come time to output the load the cold can be avoided.

 

[olyman]

This ^^^

We have the same problem. Our master bathroom is located on the corner of our house that is most exposed to the wind, and it is quite large, yet they put a small duct in it similar to one you would put in a closet. The bathroom is always frigid. We just use a small 1500 watt heater in there in the winter. We only turn it on when we need it warmed up. When we want to take a shower we'll go turn it on about 20-30 minutes prior and the bathroom will be pretty warm by the time we get in there.

I plan to correct this problem eventually with a planned partial bathroom renovation that is going to expose the the main trunk of the duct-work so I can run a larger duct at that time. The heaters work great for now though.

ETA, don't pay any attention to the spammer above me. He has absolutely no idea what he is talking about 99.9% of the time.

and you cant understand his gibber the rest:notrolls2:

 

[CountryBoy19]

and you cant understand his gibber the rest:notrolls2:

No kidding.... I just don't understand it... he is an absolute idiot, comes here posting all sorts of crap that could possibly get somebody killed/injured, thinks he knows it all etc, everybody hates him, yet he keeps coming back and the mods just don't seem to ban him...

 

[Windwalker7]

Here is what I did. We had a similar problem with the addition we added on our home. It was always cold in there too. Room is 24'x30'

The rest of the house is forced air heated.

OK, here is how I did it. The water line comes in from OWB and goes to a water to air HX in the plenum. The water then comes out of that HX and goes directly into another HX, only this one is a water to water flat plate.(10 plate)
The water then returns to the OWB.


Under that room we ran 1/2 pex for radiant floor heating with home made manifolds and the whole nine yards..

The water/antifreeze is circulated round and round threw the water/water HX via another pump.


I also added a mixing valve and a small pressure tank. I wasn't sure if I really needed the pressure tank or not but didn't want to redo it.


Without out going into the details of my radiant floor, you could do the same thing with your baseboard heater.

Just get a water/water HX and a pump.



I must admit I have no HVAC background and basically winged it for my set up. It came out better than I thought it would.

Hope this helps.

 

[timg]

Windwalker 7
What was the reason/thinking about the pressure tank,Was it for expansion? I am not sure if it is needed or not. I think this will be a closed system so pressure might be a problem. Anyone else got a idea on the pressure tank?

Something else I have been think about is to let the main pump run all the time and put a thermostat with a zone valve on the heater in bathroom. This will do 2 things , keep the main hx hot all the time for faster warm up and let the bathroom have heat when ever it calls for it without another pump or hx
thanks

 

[blackdogon57]

All you need to do is install a manifold where your water lines come into the house. In my case my 1" inch lines get split into 5 separate 1" lines. They all have separate ball valves to adjust flow and lead to individual heat exchangers. ( garage/pool/basement/hot water tank/furnace). All run from the circ pump on the boiler with no problem. If you can run a line to your bathroom you should have no problem installing a small exchanger with or without a blower.

 

[Windwalker7]

Windwalker 7
What was the reason/thinking about the pressure tank,Was it for expansion? I am not sure if it is needed or not. I think this will be a closed system so pressure might be a problem. Anyone else got a idea on the pressure tank?

Something else I have been think about is to let the main pump run all the time and put a thermostat with a zone valve on the heater in bathroom. This will do 2 things , keep the main hx hot all the time for faster warm up and let the bathroom have heat when ever it calls for it without another pump or hx
thanks

Yes the set up for the radiant floor was a closed loop. I was reading about it being a good idea to have a pressure tank in a closed loop for expansion.

Not sure if I really needed it or not. Put one in the set up anyway.

 

[coyotencuttin]

+1 for blackdog. that would be the easiest way to add the bathroom and any other addition you may have. not to hijack the thread but windwalker added the heat exchanger for another loop/zone and added the expansion tank, he created another closed loop and does in fact need the expansion tank but also needs a relief valve. if the pressure were to go too high you would not have any way to safely relief the excess pressure.