Could use some help cutting down tree that is leaning away
- Thread starter clydesdale6
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Yarz
ArboristSite Operative
Can you tell what is causing it to uproot?
I ask because it kind of looks like there may be a rotted root, (the one the most in the foreground) but I can't quite tell if it is that or just an illusion caused by leaves in the picture.
If there are rotting roots, I would likely not want to be near it to cut, while pulling the top, for fear it could shift faster than I can move.
I would likely change my strategy to pulling the base, if I could do it in such a way that the top will not go near the power lines.
If I've been duped by an optical illusion, my apologies, and simply ignore what I've said here..
I ask because it kind of looks like there may be a rotted root, (the one the most in the foreground) but I can't quite tell if it is that or just an illusion caused by leaves in the picture.
If there are rotting roots, I would likely not want to be near it to cut, while pulling the top, for fear it could shift faster than I can move.
I would likely change my strategy to pulling the base, if I could do it in such a way that the top will not go near the power lines.
If I've been duped by an optical illusion, my apologies, and simply ignore what I've said here..
clydesdale6
ArboristSite Member
I am going to look at it again tomorrow. I think the root is in fact rotted, yet the tree seems fine. If not rotted, then ripped out due to a storm. I will clean around it more and get a better look. Thanks.
clydesdale6
ArboristSite Member
Some of the roots look like they were ripped out on one side.clydesdale6
ArboristSite Member
I have another equipment question as well. Looking at porta wraps and rope, the question is what size? Is there a disadvantage to buying a large porta wrap if I am only using 1/2 or 5/8 rope? Also, what is the best type of roping device to hook the porta wrap to the anchor tree? I see slings of different types. What is the proper type for this idea? From what I see at various sites the porta wraps are use mostly for lowering and not really anchoring. Still not sure if I am going to do this, but learning and moving slow so this stays safe. Thanks for all the help.
Yarz
ArboristSite Operative
It's going to have to be your call as to whether that is still in the ground well enough to be pulling on the top.
Assuming the base is solid enough, that sounds plausible. I've got no experience pulling multiple directions at once, but is seems to me that would help to untangle the branches.
No idea if there is a disadvantage, but the one I use with the 1/2" rope is a Notch Large, with an eye sling. In one of the descriptions I read, "bigger tube provides more surface for friction, and less bend to your line."
What type of sling to get, in my opinion, depends on your knot tying ability (can easily be learned) and the diameter of the anchor tree. Yes, portawraps are primarily used for lowering. I used it because I had it and thought it would work in this situation to provide me the safety factor I wanted.
There may be better ways to lock off the pull.
A cheaper way (basically free) would be to use wraps of the rope around a tree (adds friction, just like a porta wrap, but at the risk of damage to said tree's cambium).
An alternative option would be to chose a 5:1 or Fiddle Block kit of some sort to do the pulling/progress capture instead. Again, I don't have direct experience with these, but they seem to work well in the videos I've seen.
No matter what you choose, stay aware, stay safe, and keep us updated on what you do and how it goes.
Another thought, an anchor line that stops the tree from falling towards the power lines . Get it as snug as you can .
So now there are high voltage power lines a hard lean,loose base at the roots and an inexperienced person cutting it! Why don't you pay a Tree Service buy the hour just to drop it for you?
The continuing questions and the many variables involved suggest that you would be wise to step back from this, bite the bullet, and hire a good professional.
The cost might seem tough to swallow, but if you get in over your head the cost could be far greater. I'm sure we've all been in a situation at one time or another where the end result cost more than we hoped to save.
The cost might seem tough to swallow, but if you get in over your head the cost could be far greater. I'm sure we've all been in a situation at one time or another where the end result cost more than we hoped to save.
clydesdale6
ArboristSite Member
I thank you all for your advice. I'll let you know how it goes, either by me or by a tree guy. I may try to rope first and see if I can move it at all. If that fails, I will be picking up the phone. Thanks again.
clydesdale6
ArboristSite Member
Whether or not I succeed with this tree or even attempt it, I have discovered much better methods and tools to make my life easier on other trees that are simply in the woods of my property. So, I have a general equipment question that applies to this tree and future trees that I want to guide to the ground. I understand the porta wrap's role, but I am not sure if I want to purchase a loopie or a ultra sling from treestuff.com. For hooking up the porta wrap at the base of the tree, it seems that many arborists prefer the loopie over a whoopie. But, I have see many that prefer the ultra sling over the loopie. But, it seems that the ultra sling is a www.treestuff.com product. Any advice on which type of sling product I should purchase to anchor the porta wrap to the tree? If you could give me your reasoning, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your help.
First, if you're dropping trees, there's no need for a porta wrap. The porta wrap is generally used by arborists who are climbing and sectioning down trees from up above. It is a friction device used to control the fall of pieces and bombed out of the canopy. And really, its function could be replicated by simply wrapping the rope around another tree (although the friction produced could damage the bark of the tree that is wrapped). The guy who showed the use of the porta wrap above could have achieved the same result by tying off on the tree he hung the porta wrap on.
Depending on what you're doing, and how great the load, you can tie rope to a neighboring tree. A sling is used to prevent damage that would occur when a heavily loaded rope digs into the bark. For all purposes, what sling you use should be determined by the loads you will incur and the rated strength of the sling itself (and also its length, to be determined by the girth of trees you'll anchor to).
But now we're into rigging, and you need to learn a lot of basics before you go there.
Depending on what you're doing, and how great the load, you can tie rope to a neighboring tree. A sling is used to prevent damage that would occur when a heavily loaded rope digs into the bark. For all purposes, what sling you use should be determined by the loads you will incur and the rated strength of the sling itself (and also its length, to be determined by the girth of trees you'll anchor to).
But now we're into rigging, and you need to learn a lot of basics before you go there.
In general, Clydesdale it sounds like you should start from scratch on learning forestry falling skills. Lots of good advice on that here, but really it's best to find a live, experienced person in your neighborhood to learn from.
It's very satisfying work when done properly. But the pitfalls and possible injuries to person and property that await an unknowing operator could fill a book.
All the best to you.
It's very satisfying work when done properly. But the pitfalls and possible injuries to person and property that await an unknowing operator could fill a book.
All the best to you.
clydesdale6
ArboristSite Member
Thanks old CB. I am listening to all the advice on this site. I have watched several videos of the porta wrap in action and do realize that it is used mainly as a lowering device. But, I kind of like the idea of being able to attach it to an anchoring tree and help guide the pull of the tree you want to take down. It seems like it would cost me about $185 with a sling. I could then not damage the rope around a tree, not damage the tree, and slowly release tension easily on the rope if necessary. I like the idea of using the prusik to tie the come a long to the main rope. It seems to make good sense to me. But, you are correct, I have never done this and maybe it doesn't work as well in practice as it does in theory. I am in no hurry, so I am still researching and moving slowly and safely. While researching, I came across the loopie, whoopie and an ultra sling. I was wondering which of those would be easiest and strong enough to attach the wrap to the base of the tree. But realize that I don't really need it. But, would it have the advantages that I mentioned before? Thanks again for all your help.
Yarz
ArboristSite Operative
Did you ultimately decide to do this, or call in a pro? I'm curious, and hoping it came to a safe conclusion either way.
clydesdale6
ArboristSite Member
Thanks Yarz,
I bought my supplies, and have some plans. But, I stopped and moved on to other things because of the Coronavirus. If something did go wrong, I didn't want to be "that guy" that then diverted the power company, highway department or God forbid, medical attention to my address during a time when people were stressed and near panic. Things are calming down here now and I will take another closer look at this soon. Thanks for checking in. I am sure I will have more questions as I get closer and calling in a pro is still on the table. Thanks.
I bought my supplies, and have some plans. But, I stopped and moved on to other things because of the Coronavirus. If something did go wrong, I didn't want to be "that guy" that then diverted the power company, highway department or God forbid, medical attention to my address during a time when people were stressed and near panic. Things are calming down here now and I will take another closer look at this soon. Thanks for checking in. I am sure I will have more questions as I get closer and calling in a pro is still on the table. Thanks.
I do what you are dealing with on an consistent basis and have more than most experience wise. So does not mean every thing. What I use is much rigging and come alongs. You do not need any slings or other such stuff. First you shoot a line into the tree as high as possible and take your time because it will take several attempts to get it right. I like two three attachment points. To pull the tree in to two different directions is very doable. It appears that you have several trees near by so attaching should be easy. Anything around a base is OK. Damaging a tree at the base is unlikely especially sense the load will be less than 3,000 lbs. I would have at least three come a longs if not five. I use line that is rated at at least 2,000 lbs. Using chain cable or what ever is OK. I have hoisted 1/4 chain up a tree many times, but by the time it is 50' in the air it is heavy. Cable is better as it is lighter. Once you have the rigging is just right you then will make your cut then what. Many times at that point nothing happens as the tree is hung up into the other trees. First attempt is with the third attachment pull straight down. If still no go you firmly secure the base of the tree to good secure trunks or what ever is secure. Then with wedges you will cut the bottom out section by section until it is manageable. If that is too much of a challenge hire some help who ever or what ever is available. Thanks
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