Curious problem with a Didier woodsplitter

[GroundBrook1]

I am going to post a previous conversation I had with Shari about my wood splitter that she thought would be interesting for the group to comment on and possibly explain why it happened.


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GroundBrook1, Saturday at 11:50 AM ReportReply

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GroundBrook1 said: ↑
I am having a problem with a Didier wood splitter (kind of hard to read the i.d. plate but I think it's Didier model no. 199, code 9E, serial no. 1114205 from Didier Mfg., Racine WI). I've been splitting some black locust and it's been doing a great job but suddenly the ram became separated from the ? hydraulic piston rod and I need some advice on how to reattach it. If I remove the 6 nuts holding the ram "slider", and the 4 nuts on the u-shaped "straps that are holding the hydraulic piston so that I can screw the ram back on to the rod solve my problem? (sorry if my terminology is not accurate but I hope you can interpret what I mean). The threads appear to be ok so I'm assuming that screwing it back on will solve the problem, and if the threads are damaged I will need a retooling of the threaded parts, if possible. Am I missing something here (other than a huge amount of knowledge that most of you here obviously have about these wonderful machines). I borrowed it from a good friend and want to be able to tell him i can either fix it or have it fixed. See attached photos 1 & 2. Thanks for a great blog, it's one of the great reasons the web is so important. View attachment 369388 View attachment 369389

"Houston - we have a problem!" Wow! I have no idea how to fix that problem.

Best bet would be to post photos to the main board here (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/firewood-heating-and-wood-burning-equipment.55/) (click on "Post a New Thread in the blue box towards the right). Include the pictures you send to me.

Shari

"Any day on this side of the flower bed is a good day." - Maxine


Shari
Hi Shari,
Thanks for responding. I think that there might be a very clever poltergeist with a good sense of humor hanging out around here (hopefully now gone). I searched the web, even called Fosters, the people who made the original Didiers, and the young fellow who i spoke to said there was nothing that could be done, it was shot and not worth fixing. I decided to do what I had mentioned in my post and it worked. Took the bolts off the side pieces on the "sled"that the ram slides on so I could hold it at an angle to screw it onto the threaded piston rod on the front of the hydraulic piston which I was able to prop up after taking the nuts off of the u-shaped tubular "straps" so it was raised at an angle and there was enough clearance to be able to screw the ram slider onto the piston rod. Put it back together and HOOORAYYYY, it's back to work splitting all that black locust, ash, birch, apple and maple. The thing that is really weird is everyone I spoke with thought the threads had to be stripped and replacement parts would have to be tooled to fix it but that wasn't the case, the threads were totally intact... another HOOORRAAYYYYY!!!! Go figure. I'll definitely post to the main board and try to explain with some pictures and words what happened and how it got fixed. It might be a few days as a significant distraction has demanded my time but I'll do it. I look forward to feedback from people.

Thanks again,
Vic

 

[blades]

From the pictures and posting , I would guess that there is a slight rotation of the ram in the cylinder on each stroke leading to the difficulty- could be cause by a build up of varnish / crud on the piston or that the top of the piston has become worn in a fashion that the in rushing fluid ( which could be now or in the past be contaminated) is acting upon it to cause rotation.
You could drill through the welded on nut and ram nose & add a pin ( I would go all the way through though) that would stop the rotation.
Prior to doing that, add a marker ( with distinct edges) of some type spanning the nut and ram so that it would provide a visual indication of rotation.
All of my equipment using hydro cylinders are pinned in some fashion.
That unit must have led a sheltered life as most of the time something on that order would be rusted together better than welding.

 

[Whitespider]

You wouldn't have needed to unbolt anything to reattach the push plate to the rod... because the rod will turn inside the cylinder. You could have just ran the rod out a bit, slipped the push plate back against it, and turned the rod to thread it back on... maybe used a water pump pliers or pipe wrench to turn the rod. Chances are, if it happened once it will happen again... an application of Loctite 270 will keep it from ever happening again, but if you're thinking you may need to disassemble it some day use Loctite 243.

Whichever Loctite product you decide to use, be sure and have the surfaces squeaky clean and use enough to completely fill any gaps in the threads for the full length of engagement... just wipe off the excess that oozes out.
*

 

[blades]

Really do not want to use any type of serrated jaw clamping device on the cylinder rod unless there is an area that does not pass through the cylinder seals. If you were to mess up the surface of the rod it will destroy the seals in the cylinder end.

Moot point as already repaired.

 

[GroundBrook1]

Really do not want to use any type of serrated jaw clamping device on the cylinder rod unless there is an area that does not pass through the cylinder seals. If you were to mess up the surface of the rod it will destroy the seals in the cylinder end.

Moot point as already repaired.

Thanks for your insight. I tried turning it by hand and it was quite tight. I did consider trying to turn it with a tool but decided against that because of the possibility of messing up the threads so I did it the way described even though it was a little more complicated it was less apt to mess anything up. I will mention to the owner your idea of pinning the nut and ram. So far, it doesn't appear to be rotating but i'll watch it closely. Any idea of the history of this model (kind of hard to read the i.d. plate but I think it's Didier model no. 199, code 9E, serial no. 1114205 from Didier Mfg., Racine WI) in terms of when it was made or anything else? It is a great machine splitting a lot of wood for me.
Thanks again.

 

[blades]

Thanks for your insight. I tried turning it by hand and it was quite tight. I did consider trying to turn it with a tool but decided against that because of the possibility of messing up the threads so I did it the way described even though it was a little more complicated it was less apt to mess anything up. I will mention to the owner your idea of pinning the nut and ram. So far, it doesn't appear to be rotating but i'll watch it closely. Any idea of the history of this model (kind of hard to read the i.d. plate but I think it's Didier model no. 199, code 9E, serial no. 1114205 from Didier Mfg., Racine WI) in terms of when it was made or anything else? It is a great machine splitting a lot of wood for me.
Thanks again.

MFG date and such is Shari's department- me, I'm just a guy with a big hammer and a couple wrenches( and a little machine shop to back them up)