Cylinder/piston repair ? Many questions, sorry so long.

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Sicker cats than that have lived,so to speak.

They make Scotch brit flap wheels which will not cut into the cylinder plating but will remove the tramp aluminum.

If the rings aren't toast and the piston not completely shot,it may still run,although not perfect.If you can remove the high spots on the piston it may still run for years.

Clean it up,put it back together.If it holds a reasonable amount of compression,fuel it up and give it a whirl.You aren't out a thing,except a little time.

I ordered a new piston today - I am looking for a gasket kit and maybe some other parts I read about in another recent thread.
I would recommend a new intake plate (the white plastic piece that the carb screws into) and new grommets for the intake and the pulse line nipple (usually the green ring stuck into the cylinder right next to the intake)

That sounds low cost.

I figure I will then get it all back together (Hopefully), set the carb to factory (Still need to read up on that), then tweak the carb (Still need to read up on that) and see how she whirls. I am meticulously cleaning all the parts so she looks new while I'm at it. I wish I had a parts washer :(
 
Piston Doesn't fit?

I got my piston in, ordered an aftermarket piston and ring off of ebay.

As I posted earlier - Cylinder cleaned up pretty nice as far as I can tell from my inexperienced eye.

I attached the ring, careful to note the orientation in relation to the little nub in the groove. I then squeezed the ring tight with my fingers and slid the cylinder over the piston, I had attached the piston to the crank already.

The fit is REALLY tight. I am positive that the ring is oriented correctly, I can see in through the intake port and all looks correct. First I just twisted and pushed it down and bolted on the cylinder. I didn't try and force anything but there was no way this is normal. I removed it, checked for alignment again (Thinking my ring was out of the groove on the exhaust side maybe) and then went to re-install the cylinder. Well, the ring is definitely in the groove on the intake side, likely in on the exhaust side and that cylinder is just really tight. I left it inserted only about half an inch and walked away.

So my questions...
Is this normal?
Should I lube it up? If so, what kind of oil (mix oil, bar oil, sae30, 10w30, WD40, butchers wax :dizzy: )??
As I put things back together is there anything I need to do other than just re-assemble, set carb to factory, gas it up and giver her a start?
 
With the ring off the piston should drop in and out of the bore with no resistance at all. With the ring on it should take only a light push, like the tip of your finger to push the piston in.

For lube just a very little 2 stroke oil works fine. Try fitting the piston in when it is not conected to the rod, that way you can see whats going on. Be careful not to turn the piston in the cylinder if it has rings on it as they can catch in the ports and cause a major problem to get apart without wrecking things.

Herd of a few aftermarket jugs where the ring groove was not cut deep enough. Also beter check how the ring fits in relation to the end pin, if the ring is upside down you will have problems. Also check the rings in the bore without the piston and see what your end gap is, you can use the piston to push the ring in square to the bore. If you have no end gap then that can be fixed with some careful sanding on the ring ends.
 
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With the ring off the piston should drop in and out of the bore with no resistance at all. With the ring on it should take only a light push, like the tip of your finger to push the piston in.

For lube just a very little 2 stroke oil works fine. Try fitting the piston in when it is not conected to the rod, that way you can see whats going on. Be careful not to turn the piston in the cylinder if it has rings on it as they can catch in the ports and cause a major problem to get apart without wrecking things.

Herd of a few aftermarket jugs where the ring groove was not cut deep enough. Also beter check how the ring fits in relation to the end pin, if the ring is upside down you will have problems. Also check the rings in the bore without the piston and see what your end gap is, you can use the piston to push the ring in square to the bore. If you have no end gap then that can be fixed with some careful sanding on the ring ends.

OK - I played with the piston w/o the ring. Its a close fit, no resistance yet no, or VERY little, slop either. I then tried the ring alone. The ring fit, without completely closing, when put in place w/o the piston.

I then tried again to put the thing back together. CRAP, I broke the ring. Maybe you were correct and the groove was not deep enough.

I picked up a new ring today from my local Husky dealer (As well as a new cyl and carb gasket) and will try again tonight or tomorrow.

I suppose if the groove is too shallow I would realistically need to request a replacement from the ebay guy. Hmm. I suppose I could also just closely inspect the groove, maybe there is just a bump or a slight imperfection keeping the ring from seating and a very small file will fix it.

Oh, and a gloat - - I picked up a Baldor 6" double grinder with a stand for $25 at an industrial auction. Will make mower and brush cutter blade sharpening easier as I'm using a 1"x30" belt sander at the moment.
 

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