Decompression valve retrofit on 262XP

[twistedtree]

Has anyone ever added a decompression value on a saw that didn't originally come with one? I'm wondering if I can add one to my 262XP. The saw has killer snap-back, and now that I've experienced the decompression value on my 385, I'm sold on them.

Anyone ever tried this?

 

[sawn_penn]

I'd be interested in hearing about this too. I've a got 288xp w/o decomp, and it's a bugger to pull over. Pretty well means that ground starts are the only option.

I think I read that these husky XPs have a bolt that plugs the hole where a deco valve can be fitted.

Is it as simple as removing the bolt and fitting the deco valve?

 

[Freakingstang]

If you can't find a decomp valve for it, buy a Stihl Elasto-Start handle and cord. It sounds stupid, but works well with high compression and lack of decomps. I have them on a couple saws, and it helps with the kickback. Also, faster pulls help to.

If the cylinder casting has a boss for it, it is just a matter of drilling and tapping the cylinder. Just about all the blue handled husky decomp valves are the same


-Steve

 

[clearance]

I have used 266XP saws and 288XP saws that didn't have the decomp. I know that guys who are smaller than me started bigger, nastier saws before the decomp days came along. I think that you have to use some techniques, like Sawn Penn, you could start it on the ground, the drop start method is "wrong" anyways. I remember when I was younger, cranking over saws, concentrating force and a tight grip are the key. Cursing along with aggression always seem to work as well. "start you -------whore, slut, c'mon-------- " and so on.

 

[sawn_penn]

I pulled all the plastic off my 288xp this afternoon. For the record, there isn't a spot to drill out (nor a bolt plugging a hole) on my saw. No easy decomp valve fit on this little saw.

I'll take the elastostart advice though. My little puppy knows how to bite the hand that feeds it.

The cursin and cussin I'm already doing.

 

[Freakingstang]

My grand paps 064 never had a decomp valve on it. I think I could finally start it at the age of 15 or 16. I wasn't allowed to run a saw that I couldn't start. lol

I've also found that starting big saws on the ground always increased my snap back. I seemed to have better luck with the drop start method. I know it is wrong and safety issue, that is just what works for me

-Steve

 

[Mr.]

288 without a decomp?

Not a 281?

Fred

 

[clearance]

288 without a decomp?

Not a 281?

Fred

Yes, they made 288s with no decomp and a steel brake and 288s with decomp and a plastic brake. I like the steel brake ones best cause you can adjust it.

 

[oldsaw]

Has anyone ever added a decompression value on a saw that didn't originally come with one? I'm wondering if I can add one to my 262XP. The saw has killer snap-back, and now that I've experienced the decompression value on my 385, I'm sold on them.

Anyone ever tried this?

I vote for the Freakinstang approach. My 066 is pre-decomp and had a generic pull handle. Used to bite back badly. Replaced with the Elasto-start handle and it hasn't bitten me back yet, 2 years and change later. My next part purchase is going to be one for the 3120 "formerly known as Chopsaw's". Best upgrade I ever did on the 066.

Mark

 

[sawn_penn]

If you can't find a decomp valve for it, buy a Stihl Elasto-Start handle and cord. It sounds stupid, but works well with high compression and lack of decomps. I have them on a couple saws, and it helps with the kickback.

I got an elastostart handle today for the 288xp. Yep, it makes a world of difference. It absorbs the shock of a kick, and is just a bigger, nicer handle all round.

Thanks.

 

[SawTroll]

288 without a decomp? ...

Both the 288xp and the 262xp were made for some time witout decomp valve before it was added some time in the early 1990s.

Edit;
The decomp valve was intoduced in 1991 on the 288xp and in 1994 on the 262xp, according to availiable IPLs.

 

[sawn_penn]

Both the 288xp and the 262xp were made for some time witout decomp valve before it was added some time in the early 1990s.

Looks like the first two digits of the serial number are the year of manufacture. My serial starts with 95. The rewind cover is slightly different to newer 288xp's, and the 288xp sticker is just a little postage-stamp-size number.

 

[SawTroll]

Looks like the first two digits of the serial number are the year of manufacture. My serial starts with 95. The rewind cover is slightly different to newer 288xp's, and the 288xp sticker is just a little postage-stamp-size number.

From that info, my conclution is that your saw is from 1989, week 50, 51 or 52 - in the 1980s the year was designated by the first digit only, I think.
The small sticker side covers were obsolete well before 1995.