Did this Oak die from being transplanted?

[NebClimber]

This tree was transplanted to its current site in October of 2004. It was watered regularly, etc. Now it looks pretty dead. I believe it is a Bur Oak.

Again, I have been asked to determine cause of death. To me, best guess is stress from transplant.

Thoughts?

NebClimber

 

[NYCHA FORESTER]

Hard to tell from pictures but that root ball looks far too small for a tree of that caliper.

 

[Elmore]

Whoa...!

Those images are huge...otherwise I would have looked at them. Where's TreeCo when you need him...heh heh
I'll guess you need to call in TCSI (Tree Crime Scene Investigation).
Pics too big for my little setup.

 

[NebClimber]

After a little internet work I am further convinced of transplant death. As noted by others, rootball looks small compared to tree (assuming rootball is area encompassed by mulch bed). Also, Oak is an especially difficult tree to transplant b/c of its taproot system.

But, still would like to hear more thoughts.

P.S.: TreeCo, how did you reduce pics. I only have Microsoft Paint, and I stretched/skewed each pic to about 80 percent of original size. What size is recommended for this forum? I want everyone to be able to view if they wish.

NebClimber

 

[Dadatwins]

Pull it out of the ground and check the roots, see if there was any new growth past the root ball. How was it transplanted? Wire basket and burlap or bare root? Any major broken roots will still show. Check to see if it was overwatered, possible mildew on roots. Grass looks bright green, any lawn chemicals used to treat the lawn might not help the tree. Lots of questions to answer simple why is it dead.

 

[Elmore]

Okay, my input...it looks like a White Oak to me, although due to stress the leaves will often take on some bizarre forms. The bark also looks like Quercus alba. The caliper looks to be about 6" and the apparent root ball, if mulched area represents such, looks to be about 36". A 6" caliper tree should have a 72" ball...typically, around here, a tree of this size would have a 90" root ball.
You can resize your images by using this free and easily used program.
http://www.irfanview.com/
Once downloaded and installed, simply select file, then open your file, select image then resize, select the 640 x 480 pixels or any other size desired (hopefully smaller), click okay, then go to file and select save. I generally choose the 640 x 480 pixels option. If you want to keep your outrageously large image, be sure to copy it or rename your resized pic so that it doesn't overwrite your obscenely huge photo. If you have Windows XP you can go to microsoft and install ImageResizer from the Power Toys. With this free program you can resize entire lots of images with one click...more or less.

 

[treeseer]

Elmore, the bark looks too furrowed for Q alba, looks more like bur.

Steven, if you're being paid to find out you can dig it up and wash the dirt off the roots. You'll see too small a root mass for that crown, and who knows which way the roots are growing?. 10" for every 1" caliper is the general rule. Also you could find out about the hole prep--also too small, 3x rootball is recommended.

Are you getting paid enough to get all dirty and take the time? I charge basically the same for shovel work as for saddle work. If not, will the client help with the shovel work?

 

[Elmore]

General rule of thumb is for every inch of caliper provide 12" of root ball diameter...but whose counting heh heh

 

[Ax-man]

Neb,

Did your internet search happen to mention the best time of year to move Oaks. October is to early IMO to attempt to move an Oak especially a Burr Oak, they are the toughest of the Oaks to transplant sucessfully. November is a better time to move an Oak, preferrable after Thankgiving or any time during the winter till early March.

I'll go along with the flow here, to big a tree for the size of the rootball. I think Oaks or any tree when they get to be this size would tranplant better if they weren't so rudely just dug out of the ground and transplanted. It would be better if they were root pruned a season or two prior to being moved. I get calls all the time from people who hire a tree spade, get big trees cheap from some nursery, do it by the book but the trees are dying in mid May. Oaks are usually at the top of the list, Ash and Maple species running a close second.

Is this the same place the Ash tree is dying??? Pics look like it.

Larry

 

[NebClimber]

This oak is located at a different site from the Ash, but on property owned by the same entity.

This tree was moved from one site to another owned by same entity, so I think they just decided to give it a shot.

NebClimber

 

[NebClimber]

Guy:

What do you mean "3x rootball" for hole prep? Should the hole be dug 3x the size of the root ball, then filled back in to create an easily penetrable zone for the roots to explore?

 

[Elmore]

Guy:

What do you mean "3x rootball" for hole prep? Should the hole be dug 3x the size of the root ball, then filled back in to create an easily penetrable zone for the roots to explore?

Just chiming in here, in regard to the planting prep... the planting hole should never be any deeper than the root ball. It should be a little shallower to address any settling of the root ball after planting. Plant a little high. The width of the hole should be, ideally, 3 times as wide as the root ball. Most landscapers will simply plant the tree in a hole that is about the size of the root ball. With the exception of anchoring roots, most of the tree roots will be in the top few inches and rarely deeper than a foot or two. Old school rule was to prepare a planting hole 1.5 times as wide as the root ball diameter, new advice is 3 to even 5 times as wide. Now if your ball diameter is 36" and it's depth is 2/3 that of the diameter, 24", it doesn't seem realistic to dig a hole 9' to 15' wide and 20" deep. I think a better approach would be to dig a shallow hole, say 6' wide and 18" to 20" deep and perhaps double dig or cultivate the top 12" of surrounding soil out to 9' to 15'...let's say 10'. A lot depends on your soil type. If it is a compacted soil this additional surface preparation may help this tree in establishing functional feeder roots.
Here are a couple of useful links...two of many...

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02926.html

http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/

 

[Derag2]

that root ball is way to small, that ball looks like what we use for out 2-3 inch trees........ we never dig a hole 3 times the size usually its just a little bigger than the ball to move it around easier and we have very few trees die. The only think that draws me away from transplant death is that they woulda had to work the crap out of that tree to make it live for almost a year before it died. if it died from transplant most of our trees die within a month or two of being planted. But then again i'm no expert.......

 

[tenacrewoods]

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