dogwood split
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Remove one half of it and hope for the best with the remaining half? Splits are hard/impossible to repair except on VERY young, very small trees, and even then it may take years before the true insufficiency of the "repair" evidences itself.
Dadatwins
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possible to post a picture? Suprised that the all knowing seer would make such a drastic decision without a visual. While I rarely disagree with his answers I would also suggest you use the smallest diameter bolt available that will do the job. Don't drill a 1/2" hole in a 2" tree.
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Elmore
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Also, remove any meristem down to zylem around washers (countersink) so that tree will grow over and cover hardware and not leave exposed.
Elmore this is totally wrong--make a wound like that---why? Rot is almost guaranteed that way. exposed hardware is highly preferable to unseen decay.
Dada, drilling is mild compared to whacking half the tree off. You are right, it's wrong to advise wounding without seeing, but if the split is as described bracing sounds best.
Elmore
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5. Procedure for seating the head of the bolt, nut, and washer (Figure 8.4).
a. In order to seat the nut or head of the bolt, cut into the xylem tissue using the washer as a guide and seat the washer in the most recent xylem just below the cambium and perpendicular to the rod.
b. The nut is then placed on the washer and the nut threaded into the rod. This will allow for the nut, washer and rod to be overgrown quickly. A keyholesaw can speed seating the nut and washer.
c. Once the nut is tightened against the washer, the rod is cut off and then bradded to insure that it does not back off or unscrew over time.
Figure 8.4 Diagram of a properly seated rod nut and washer. Diagram by Greg Younkin.
http://snr.osu.edu/current/courses/enr232/Tree_Maint.pdf
Hey what do I know in this regard. I'm just a plant engineer (graft small trees). I think a pretty simple technique would be sufficient in the case of this small dogwood but I have kept my ears open on occasion and I first heard of the counter sinking from a NASA engineer who doubles as an Urban Forester. Upon further investigation I found the above info. You may be right and the others, who advise setting the washer and nut into zylem, may not be up to snuff on it.
Here is how I would probably set it up:
Here is how I would probably set it up:
:jawdrop:
you'll see that is an old curriculum because they refer to the 2000 ANSI. The 2005 ANSI corrects that countersinking error. So Davis (who is an otherwise sharp cookie) was just following the current standard. for a really good picture see page 33 here http://www.tcia.org/PDFs/TCI_Mag_July_07.pdf
re this dogwood, see the article on page 8, and find the flare while you are caring for the tree.
O and elmore that is a tight strap job eh? What was the rest of the story on that tree?
re this dogwood, see the article on page 8, and find the flare while you are caring for the tree.
O and elmore that is a tight strap job eh? What was the rest of the story on that tree?
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Elmore
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you'll see that is an old curriculum because they refer to the 2000 ANSI. The 2005 ANSI corrects that countersinking error. So Davis (who is an otherwise sharp cookie) was just following the current standard. for a really good picture see page 33 here http://www.tcia.org/PDFs/TCI_Mag_July_07.pdf
re this dogwood, see the article on page 8, and find the flare while you are caring for the tree.
O and elmore that is a tight strap job eh? What was the rest of the story on that tree?
Okay Guy...thanks for the update.
The story of that beech and some others can be found here:
http://www.aie.org.uk/trunkline/aie_tr_beech_brace.html
Sprig
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It is commendable that everyone is comming up with ideas to save this tree I have a question or two in regards to this though. On cinching up the split and then bolting together, I am assuming that the idea is that over the next few years there is hope that the wound will scar and seal over? What are the chances of shock to the 2" diameter area of the split being drilled will kill the tree anyhow? Will this become a failure point when the tree is larger? Should the two main branches be roped together to take the strain off the split until it has gotten larger and had a chance to heal, will this become an on-going problem? Also, what are the chances that this will become a home for rot in the future since it is a verticle split?
The banding-bracing that Elmore has shown in his pic and as shown in the link he posted has me thinking 'strangulation', regardless of whether its a loose cable or rigid bar joining them it still seems to me to have created a point of failure though in the imbedded pic of the tree posted has obviously survived for a while, the cable is slack making me wonder if it was necessary in the first place, would not swaying movement then snapping the cable taut not create a greater force at the band than having it tight in the first place?
What happens to trees that are relieved of bands such as those, do they heal up or does it create a new wound?
I know very, very little about such things (thats one of the reasons I'm here) but am curious about this.
Lastly, since the tree is a recent addition and only 8' high would it not make more sense to move it elsewhere out of the way (care for it there instead)and re-plant with a healthy undamaged one that is not such a worry? This makes the most sense to me, dunno.
And thanks for your patience if you actually read through this blather Kudos if you understood it
Serge
The banding-bracing that Elmore has shown in his pic and as shown in the link he posted has me thinking 'strangulation', regardless of whether its a loose cable or rigid bar joining them it still seems to me to have created a point of failure though in the imbedded pic of the tree posted has obviously survived for a while, the cable is slack making me wonder if it was necessary in the first place, would not swaying movement then snapping the cable taut not create a greater force at the band than having it tight in the first place?
What happens to trees that are relieved of bands such as those, do they heal up or does it create a new wound?
I know very, very little about such things (thats one of the reasons I'm here) but am curious about this.
Lastly, since the tree is a recent addition and only 8' high would it not make more sense to move it elsewhere out of the way (care for it there instead)and re-plant with a healthy undamaged one that is not such a worry? This makes the most sense to me, dunno.
And thanks for your patience if you actually read through this blather Kudos if you understood it Serge
Newt*
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Since this is a recent purchase, return to place of purchase for a replacement that won't become a hazard somewhere down the road.
Newt
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When I encounter these small ornamental trees with damage, I like the repair to be invisible.
As Serge correctly points out, the bracing (bolting through the crack) is really to isolate the wound from movement, and a cable is to support the two halves so they don't pull the tree apart again.
With a small tree, I use small hardware. You can sometimes get away with bailing wire for a cable, and drill through each limb with a drill bit the same diameter as the wire. Just push the wire through the limb and tie a knot in the wire on the outside of the limb.
Set the cable about 2/3s the way from the split to the top of the tree.
Then through the split, drill a very Small hole for the smallest bolt you can find. Don't sink the washers, just snug the two halves together.
The whole job takes about 15 minutes, cost about $3, and will be almost invisible.
As Serge correctly points out, the bracing (bolting through the crack) is really to isolate the wound from movement, and a cable is to support the two halves so they don't pull the tree apart again.
With a small tree, I use small hardware. You can sometimes get away with bailing wire for a cable, and drill through each limb with a drill bit the same diameter as the wire. Just push the wire through the limb and tie a knot in the wire on the outside of the limb.
Set the cable about 2/3s the way from the split to the top of the tree.
Then through the split, drill a very Small hole for the smallest bolt you can find. Don't sink the washers, just snug the two halves together.
The whole job takes about 15 minutes, cost about $3, and will be almost invisible.
Elmore
Addicted to ArboristSite
Countersinking For Tree Bolts
"Conclusions
While countersinking is traditionally used when bolts are installed, it is apparent that this practice significantly increases the amount of discolora-tion. Therefore, it is recommended that the practice of countersinking into the wood of a trunk or limb when installing eyebolts or brace rods be discontinued as a routine practice. When installing brace rods on very thick-barked trees, it still may be desirable to countersink the outer bark so that there is no movement of the rod. Callus growth over a washer is considered advantageous from an aesthetic point of view. However, it plays no part in the holding strength of the bolt. The benefits of countersinking in order to accelerate callus growth do not outweigh the increased potential for introducing decay"
http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache...cabling+and+bracing&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=59&gl=us
Yes sir. I'll grow em' you treat em'!you'll see that is an old curriculum because they refer to the 2000 ANSI. The 2005 ANSI corrects that countersinking error. So Davis (who is an otherwise sharp cookie) was just following the current standard. for a really good picture see page 33 here http://www.tcia.org/PDFs/TCI_Mag_July_07.pdf
re this dogwood, see the article on page 8, and find the flare while you are caring for the tree.
O and elmore that is a tight strap job eh? What was the rest of the story on that tree?
"Conclusions
While countersinking is traditionally used when bolts are installed, it is apparent that this practice significantly increases the amount of discolora-tion. Therefore, it is recommended that the practice of countersinking into the wood of a trunk or limb when installing eyebolts or brace rods be discontinued as a routine practice. When installing brace rods on very thick-barked trees, it still may be desirable to countersink the outer bark so that there is no movement of the rod. Callus growth over a washer is considered advantageous from an aesthetic point of view. However, it plays no part in the holding strength of the bolt. The benefits of countersinking in order to accelerate callus growth do not outweigh the increased potential for introducing decay"
http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache...cabling+and+bracing&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=59&gl=us
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