Draft Problem ???

[trax]

I just replaced my old Monarch wood ad-on furnace with a used US Stove Co. Hotblast 1300. I never had any problems with the Monarch but it was getting old and the Hotblast seems well put together, larger capacity and much newer. Problem is when I light a fire set the door damper and throtle the stack damper it starts huffing and puffing smoke out through the thermistatic damper hole on the feed door. After fooling with the dampers and the air intake on the ash door I can get it to settle down but then it will puff smoke out the damper in the feed door. Never had this problem with the Monarch or the Quadra fire before that they never let any smoke out. Chimmney is 8X8 clay tile brick outside the house. I did a good cleaning when I changed stoves and cleaned it again last night and got nothing. I have good draft a 6inch pipe (stove has 6" collar) into the chimney with 2 elbows 43" between them and it rises 32inches at a 45 degree angle. I tried going striaght up with a 90 then pitched from a second 90 over to the 90 going into the chimney and it made no difference. Any ideas ???

 

[zogger]

You had good draft with the older stoves, but now with a larger stove you don't. That's the puffing. Your air to get into the stove is not adequate. You need more air into the room where that stove is. Crack a window maybe?

Anything that that, no idea. But puffing stoves in general, that is usually the case.

That air going into the stove has to come from some place, it's a hot air pump, air in, air out the vent, and if it is just drawing from the house itself, again, you seem to have crossed a threshold where there isn't enough air coming into the house. The older heaters got enough, this new one needs a little more and it isn't there. Close, but not quite. Crack a window, see if it changes things for you.

 

[jam4430]

i recently installed the 1500 in my house and was experiencing the same issue. mine was originally installed with a 3 foot horizontal black pipe with key damper strait into 27 feet of stainless insulated liner. i was trying to use the door damper and the ash pan damper and it kept puffing like you said so i finally babysat it one night to see what is was doing and my problem was due to overdrafting. when i had a good bed of coals i would fill the stove and the door damper would cool off and open up while the new load was taking off, then once it took off the damper was cool and slow to react cause the stove to warm quickly. then once that happened the damper would heat back up quickly and basically close shut with the fire in full roar and starve it causing it to gulp air and belch. i tried running with just the ash pan damper (which i ground the tabs off of so i could shut it down if need be) and it didnt belch smoke but it was slower to light the new fuel, hard to regulate once it got going and seem to produce more creosote than id like. i since have redone the black pipe and installed a just a barometric damper with good results. now i run it with just the feed door damper. the barometric damper and feed door damper allowed it to light quicker but the barometric damper allows the fire to increase slower and steadier while letting the feed door damper catch up and not close quickly on a roaring fire. it now produces nice steady even long burns with just a minimal amount of powdery dust for creosote. my final combination is with the the ash pan damper open one turn and the chain on the feed door damper moved up two links (you can do this by removing the top cover on the feed door thermostat damper) and i just regulate the heat with low, med, high knob. i also tried playing with removing the plug in the back and that just ended up being a creosote king for me. i tried opening a window too and that did me no good no matter what. i know its a long read and probably hard to make sense of but i hope it helps you out

 

[Misfit138]

You might want to do a forum search for this unit..I seem to recall other users recounting similar draft issues and several workarounds which eventually addressed them.

 

[trax]

You had good draft with the older stoves, but now with a larger stove you don't. That's the puffing. Your air to get into the stove is not adequate. You need more air into the room where that stove is. Crack a window maybe?

I have always had good draft and still do.

Your air to get into the stove is not adequate. You need more air into the room where that stove is.

I have plenty of combustion air again not the problem

my problem was due to overdrafting

In the manual I saw where a (optional) barometric damper was used to slow down the draft. You mention a "Key Damper" I'm asumming your talking about a stack damper ? can you still throtle the key/stack damper with out spilling smoke out the barimetric?

 

[jam4430]

i just run the barometric only now. no smoke spillage at all and i dont have the smoke flap behind the door installed so i can load wood easier.

 

[trax]

You might want to do a forum search for this unit..I seem to recall other users recounting similar draft issues and several workarounds which eventually addressed them.

I did a search and came up with a lot of similar proplems. So after almost 2 hrs of searching and reading about similar problems , I decided to ask for myself and it sounds like jam4430
had the exact same problem with a possible solution

 

[trax]

i just run the barometric only now. no smoke spillage at all and i dont have the smoke flap behind the door installed so i can load wood easier

How are your burn times using only the loading door damper?

This is from the manual
9. A solid damper must be used in the chimney
connecting pipes between the flue collar and the
chimney. When used in conjunction with a barometric
draft regulator, the solid damper must be placed
between the barometric and the chimney.

 

[jam4430]

i can get 6 to 12 hours of usable heat depending on load size, type of wood, and the amount of heat needed. i read through the manual but apparently didnt take note of that. il have to go through it again. i cant see what good it would do to have both unless you had some amazing draft that the barometric couldnt bring down enough or unless the barometric was stuck and you had a roaring fire and couldnt shut the air off to it for some reason. maybe it would need it if i had the draft inducer kit but i wouldnt run a barometic with that any way, id use the solid one.

 

[Misfit138]

I did a search and came up with a lot of similar proplems. So after almost 2 hrs of searching and reading about similar problems , I decided to ask for myself and it sounds like jam4430
had the exact same problem with a possible solution

Ah.
Hope you get it sorted out.
Let us know how you do.