Drying advice needed

[BigOakAdot]

Okay guys I've been doing a lot of thread searching on here and have found a lot of useful information. I really do appreciate all the help and honest people this community has to offer.

I've purchased almost all the things I need to start milling a lot of the walnut, ash, and oak I have on my property. Before I start milling all these boards I want to make sure I have the drying figured out.

I know a lot of people use cinder blocks or railroad ties to use the main support. I don't have either of those so my question is would it be fine to use rounds of wood? I figure I can cut them to size and shim them to make them level. Thoughts?

I was the going to run pressure treated 2 x 4's across the rounds every couple feet and line up all my stickers with those 2 x 4's and start stacking my wood from there. I know I want it to be about a foot off the ground. I will be doing this outside FYI.

I know you must weight the top which brings me to my next question. I know many people use tin roofing for the top but I'm assuming this will be kind of expensive. I am trying to minimize spending because my cat just had a 4k surgery and I've put a lot into this so far. I have a lot of tarp from my uncles pool cover would it be okay to lay ply wood on top and cover it with tarp? Any ideas on the best way to prevent the sun from shining on the wood? I was thinking if I got oversized plywood that overhung the pile it should shadow it...

I really appreciate any thoughts and ideas. Also, I live in PA where it's very humid and a lot of temperature changes. Are there any other things I need to worry about? I plan on spacing and stacking it correctly with a lot of wood on top. I figure it will take at least 2 years to dry.

I am thinking about milling most of my lumber 1.5 or 2". Thoughts on what thickness to mill it? I plan on doing mostly tables, countertops, furniture etc. mostly natural edge stuff. Thanks again guys.

Andrew

 

[Trx250r180]

I would take some of that milled wood and frame up a little shed ,any wood i leave in sunlight cups pretty bad from too much heat ,i have not tried the tarp method ,the wood molds here in this area if we do that

 

[Dave Boyt]

Rounds with the bark left on them will be nothing but trouble. I'd mill wood of low value and durable species (such as post oak) into 6x8s, and run them parallel to the stickers. The tarp over plywood idea will work for a while, but roofing tin is better. I found a barn that was being torn down and was able to pick up the tin for next to nothing. The biggest issue with the tarp is to not let it hang down and restrict the air flow through the stack. Overhanging the plywood is OK, as long as the wind doesn't catch it. You need a good drying shed.

Here's a link about drying lumber: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cherry-milling.234732/#post4301236

As far as thickness, start out with your end product, then add 1/8" for planing and 10% for shrinkage. Avoid the pitfall of too many thicknesses. I typically mill 1-1/8" thick for anything that will end up 3/4" thick (kiln dry, S2S), and 2-1/4" for anything tht will end up 1-3/4". Otherwise, it can be a real pain to stack.

 

[BigOakAdot]

Rounds with the bark left on them will be nothing but trouble. I'd mill wood of low value and durable species (such as post oak) into 6x8s, and run them parallel to the stickers. The tarp over plywood idea will work for a while, but roofing tin is better. I found a barn that was being torn down and was able to pick up the tin for next to nothing. The biggest issue with the tarp is to not let it hang down and restrict the air flow through the stack. Overhanging the plywood is OK, as long as the wind doesn't catch it. You need a good drying shed.

Here's a link about drying lumber: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cherry-milling.234732/#post4301236

As far as thickness, start out with your end product, then add 1/8" for planing and 10% for shrinkage. Avoid the pitfall of too many thicknesses. I typically mill 1-1/8" thick for anything that will end up 3/4" thick (kiln dry, S2S), and 2-1/4" for anything tht will end up 1-3/4". Otherwise, it can be a real pain to stack.

I appreciate the reply and helpful hints. Now when you say mill 6 x 8s would I be laying them directly on the ground and just a stickering above them? Seems to me that won't be enough off the ground.... Thoughts?

I could just mill some oak rounds into huge square blocks and then run my 2 x 4s across those with the stickers parallel to the 2 x 4s. Maybe 12" high blocks that are 8 x 8 thick. Is the rounds with bark a no go due to wetness and bugs?

Thanks guys.

Andrew

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Buy some cement blocks! They are plenty cheeeep, you probably can even find some used ones.

Use them to support the ends of some beams you mill out, I make mine 7"x9" or there abouts. I sometimes buy nice rail road ties cheep and use them, like under this small pile of walnut,

Keep in mind that fresh milled lumber is HEAVY, so don't under size them too much!

SR

 

[BigOakAdot]

Buy some cement blocks! They are plenty cheeeep, you probably can even find some used ones.

Use them to support the ends of some beams you mill out, I make mine 7"x9" or there abouts. I sometimes buy nice rail road ties cheep and use them, like under this small pile of walnut,

Keep in mind that fresh milled lumber is HEAVY, so don't under size them too much!

SR

So are those big beams on blocks at either end? I did actually buy some wall pavers (the closest thing to cinder blocks that lowes had). I guess I will be milling my own beams. A lot of the wood I have on my property is tulip poplar, oak, and ash. Is tulip poplar suitable for beams or is it too much of a soft wood? Would rather save the oak and ash for natural edge pieces I can sell...

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Yes, I had to set them in the ground a bit, to "level" the pile. And, Poplar is fine, just mill out bigger beams, like 7x9. I use cement blocks to get the piles, and untreated beams higher up off the ground. Really, 8" isn't all that high up... Put your piles in a dry area, and cover with tin or equivalent...

SR

 

[BigOakAdot]

Yes, I had to set them in the ground a bit, to "level" the pile. And, Poplar is fine, just mill out bigger beams, like 7x9. I use cement blocks to get the piles, and untreated beams higher up off the ground. Really, 8" isn't all that high up... Put your piles in a dry area, and cover with tin or equivalent...

SR

Okay, looks like I have my plan. I guess I'm gonna need to drop the dead poplar in my yard. I don't have access to cheap tin roofing so plan on using pressure treated plywood and cover it with tarp. Hope that's okay. Thanks for the help.

I live in the woods outside or philly where it's generally very humid in summers. I hope this doesn't make the wood check and twist too much.