I just purchased a 600P last weekend and ran 3 tanks of mix thru it. I am running 40-1 av gas for mix. Running a 20 inch bar with 3/8 chain. Richened both high and lows 1/2 turn and saw ran well. I have seen on AS where some have removed inner plate and screen on this saw. Also looks to me as though you could do a little cutting on the top plate for more flow also. Has a plate on the front of muffler with 2 holes that this covers. What is this for? Have not had the muffler off yet so do not know what internals are like. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. This is my first post and I have enjoyed the reading on AS. Traded a 028 Super for this saw also have a Husky 55 ported and muffler mod which is fun to run.
Echo CS600P muffler mod suggestions
- Thread starter snipman
- Start date
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On my 520 I had enough room to put a 1/2" hole just behind the exhaust port. Removed the screen and put her together. If you do that, you may have to remove the tabs on the carb screws so you can adjust it rich enough. Brad has a video of a ported one that is quite impressive. Here's what my ported 520 sounds like with those muffler mods:
Echo CS-520 Ported - YouTube
Echo CS-520 Ported - YouTube
Hey:
Nice Saw- may I humbely suggest not using the AV gas, not the right chemistry for high rpm saws etc...
My friend simply removed the spark screen (from his CS600) and the "inner" deflector (faces rear-ward) and remounted the outer deflector. This muffler is pretty good stock otherwise.
Make sure to reinstall all four deflector cap screws as the holes go through the sheetmetal and if you don't the hot gases can get out and burn a hole in the plastic top cover, good luck.
Nice Saw- may I humbely suggest not using the AV gas, not the right chemistry for high rpm saws etc...
My friend simply removed the spark screen (from his CS600) and the "inner" deflector (faces rear-ward) and remounted the outer deflector. This muffler is pretty good stock otherwise.
Make sure to reinstall all four deflector cap screws as the holes go through the sheetmetal and if you don't the hot gases can get out and burn a hole in the plastic top cover, good luck.
miking
ArboristSite Operative
I thought mine ran well enough for me but I did pull the screen out of habit. I do think there could be room for mods though if you were inclined.
I would remove the muffler and look at the design BEFORE making any modifications to the exit hole, deflector, or any other part of it.
Some Echo's use a catalyst inside the muffler. On my CS-360T, I hade to cut the muffler in two halves, remove the catalyst, open up the exit holes in the "can" that held the catalyst, then MIG weld the two halves back together.
On the CS-370's, the "can" and catalyst are exposed, and easy to remove.
Don't get caught up in making things too big. Past a certain point all you do is make the saw louder, and can even hurt power some.
My CS-510 had a long skinny pipe inside the muffer extending all the way across it from right to left (as viewed from the rear), with a small/restrictive opening in the pipe. I removed the entire pipe, and opened up the exit hole slightly. I opened up the exit hole in stages, testing after each mod. BIG wake up call for that saw, it runs equally as fast as either of my closed port 55's, but has more "grunt", and smoother/broader power curve. To date I've found the CS-510 to be the best saw in the Echo line-up as far as power to weight ratio, and cutting performance. I've modified CS-440's, 670's, 6700's and 800's, and they did not respond nearly as well anyplace compared to the CS-510. I've got a CS-600P on my wish list, hearing nothing but good things about it to date.
Anyhow, with muffler modifications in general, it's easy to get caught up in making more noise and not really helping out the actual performance of the saw. The best advice I can give, is to be very conservative, set up a test log, and get a stopwatch. Add or take away fuel, if as needed for each modication. Keep in mind that with work saws, you have to deal with the noise, so it is best not to open them up so far they become obnoxiously loud. Even with good hearing protection, some saws are annoying to operate for long periods of time if you go to far with them.
I bought a 488 Shindaiwa once, showed up with a couple of good sized holes in straight into the muffler. It was WAY too loud. I MIG welded them up, and reworked the stock opening a bit. It actually ran better with some restriction, and about half the noise level......Cliff
Some Echo's use a catalyst inside the muffler. On my CS-360T, I hade to cut the muffler in two halves, remove the catalyst, open up the exit holes in the "can" that held the catalyst, then MIG weld the two halves back together.
On the CS-370's, the "can" and catalyst are exposed, and easy to remove.
Don't get caught up in making things too big. Past a certain point all you do is make the saw louder, and can even hurt power some.
My CS-510 had a long skinny pipe inside the muffer extending all the way across it from right to left (as viewed from the rear), with a small/restrictive opening in the pipe. I removed the entire pipe, and opened up the exit hole slightly. I opened up the exit hole in stages, testing after each mod. BIG wake up call for that saw, it runs equally as fast as either of my closed port 55's, but has more "grunt", and smoother/broader power curve. To date I've found the CS-510 to be the best saw in the Echo line-up as far as power to weight ratio, and cutting performance. I've modified CS-440's, 670's, 6700's and 800's, and they did not respond nearly as well anyplace compared to the CS-510. I've got a CS-600P on my wish list, hearing nothing but good things about it to date.
Anyhow, with muffler modifications in general, it's easy to get caught up in making more noise and not really helping out the actual performance of the saw. The best advice I can give, is to be very conservative, set up a test log, and get a stopwatch. Add or take away fuel, if as needed for each modication. Keep in mind that with work saws, you have to deal with the noise, so it is best not to open them up so far they become obnoxiously loud. Even with good hearing protection, some saws are annoying to operate for long periods of time if you go to far with them.
I bought a 488 Shindaiwa once, showed up with a couple of good sized holes in straight into the muffler. It was WAY too loud. I MIG welded them up, and reworked the stock opening a bit. It actually ran better with some restriction, and about half the noise level......Cliff
old 040
Addicted to ArboristSite
i just removed the inner baffle plate and screen, runs very well like that, the front plate just covers the two mounting screws :msp_biggrin:
Chris Francis
Obsessed with trees
Echo is great............................................................................................... for a boat anchor.
Get a Stihl.
Get a Stihl.
Bob Wright
Addicted to ArboristSite
yada yada yada....
o8f150
Tree Freak
i wish i still had the pic of the one i had but i don't,,, i opened up the baffle and added a 3/4" pipe to it
I was VERY impressed with the 600P I ported. Sorry, but I don't have any details on how I modded the muffler, as I didn't take any pictures of it.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7uc8Lc3aDaE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7uc8Lc3aDaE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
o8f150
Tree Freak
:big_smile::love1:
Nice video Brad. Any other details you can provide about the 600P, construction, quality, etc? How did it run in stock form, any testing done with it with just a muffler mod, etc?.....Cliff
Thanks to all for your replies. I pulled the muffler tonight and it has no cat, just the tube inside so for now I have just removed the screen and inner baffle. Going to try it out tomorrow and see how we run. Seems like better transition from idle to wfo than before.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
yet another usefull post by another usefull sheet head:chatter:
can't see the reason why somebody who doesn't have any experience with a product would respond. you need to go and read around about boat anchors. stihl has alot of them as well.
Javelin
Addicted to ArboristSite
Take it easy on the guy he just part of the brainwashed thread. We should show him some .png "Love :heart:")
and help him with his addiction.
and help him with his addiction.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
Take it easy on the guy he just part of the brainwashed thread. We should show him some
you know javelin, you're right. i didn't realise he was one of 'those' poor lost souls. and i duly give my sincerest apology.:hmm3grin2orange:
Chris Francis
Obsessed with trees
I made the post because of my experience with brand: plastic parts that break all the time; choke levers that are placed where they should not be - resulting in getting hit all the time; mufflers that blow exhaust at you instead of away from you; carbs that work themselves out of adjustment; shall I continue? Seriously, the slogan is "Ask any pro." But, no one does; if he/she did, the pro would tell him/her Echo would be fine for homeowner use, but does not stand up to the abuses of real commercial work. Let me think of all the Echo crap I have ran: blower, trimmer, chain saw, pole saw, and edger (all POS's). I still have the pole saw. Every time we cut with it, the plastic gear inside the pole would break, so we would have to take the whole thing apart and replace it; there is no better one - only cheap plastic. After the last time, I would not let it go back out. My plan was to sell it, but I felt too bad to sell such a POS to someone. But if someone here is stihl gung-ho "Echo rules!" I have a Great Echo pole saw to sell you dirt cheap... because it was built that way. Oh, and the choke lever is broke off because it was in the damndest place and continued to get hit all day long, usually choking the machine out when you had it extended out as far as possible and you were at the verge of being off-balance or uncomfortable; how often do you use a choke anyways? Yep, once a day, so, we broke off the lever, but it still can be used; it is an improvement really. Sorry to offend a few, but Stihl has proven very reliable and tough. I don't work for or promote any particular brand, but I am happy to give first-hand knowledge of my experience. We have used many brands over the many years, and Stihl stands out. The list of 2-cycle equipment includes: Stihl, Husqvarna, Red Max, Echo, Maruyama, Tanaka, Ryobi, Homelite, Mcculloch, Poulan, Weedeater, and probably some more. Some of it was real crap; some of it was okay; and some was outstanding. One more thing on Stihl: I went to a big event at an equipment dealer where all the different brands had dealer reps there with equipment and special pricing. It started raining. Everyone scrambled to move the equipment out of the rain... except the Stihl rep; he left his stuff in the rain. Many people apporached him with "Hey, you better get that equipment out of the rain," where he responded "Stihl equipment is not afraid to get wet. We make it where it can be used in the toughest of environments, so rain is not a big deal." He sold a lot of Stihl that day. My 2 cents. Take it or leave it.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
yep gonna leave it. everything you just typed is crap, plain and simple. had nothing to do with the topic. and still has nothing to do with the topic. the op was asking for help with a mm not some idiots "opinion" on something he really doesn't know anything about.
choke lever in the wrong place:msp_rolleyes:
what a tool.
miking
ArboristSite Operative
None of mine run like that.
Bob Wright
Addicted to ArboristSite
My neighbor lady called me and said her (name brand) not Echo string trimmer wouldn't stay running. So i got it going and it ran fine until you reved it up and the choke would close because some knuckleheaded engineer designed it with a huge plastic knob that opened in the up position. As soon as you reved it the weight of the knob would close it and snuff it out...Bob
