kamhillbilly
ArboristSite Lurker
I am looking at an Empyre 450 out door furnace to heat my house and shop .Does any one have an empyre model it is used about 5 years old ?Any info is appreciated.Thanks
We have had an Empyre 450 Stainless OWB for 4-5 years now.
The only problem we've had was with the air tubes. They were too thin and burned out each year.( They say they have a 20 yr warranty? ) The dealer finally came up with a heavy wall set of tubes with an extended end that inserts into the blower housing. The tubes tend to warp pretty bad , but at least they have lasted more than one season. We have 2 yrs on them now.
If you are going to go that way, get ready to spend all your time cutting wood and feeding it. In this cold weather we are going through 1 cord per week. We heat the house, hot water, shop ( 40x60 ) and a kiln. The only reason we bought the furnace was that we are a firewood dealer (1000 cord per year) and needed something to get rid of all the slash , odd chunks slivers and bark.
If you are around any neighbors they may not appreciate your OWB.
Spend the best money you can on the pex lines and insulation . There are a lot of bad stories out there about the heat lost by poor installations.
Also , invest in a generator to keep it running when the power goes out. You have to keep the circulators running or it will freeze.
I have very mixed reviews on any of the current OWB. I think the manufacturers could have done a lot better with the efficiency ratings . I can't wait for the next generation of OWB. Sign me up.
Weigle Tree Service
I would rethink your boiler purchase.
I have a cozeburn 250 the little brother to the empire 450 .
it works well when it is around the minus 10c mark but you get minus 35c and you will be loading wood into it every 4 to 6 hours.
I ate up 12 cords of wood untill i turned the gas back on so the arguement of saying i didnt buy a big enough one is stupid cause how does a bigger one use less wood?
I mainly use it to heat a greenhouse but thought it would be a good idea to hook it to the house to pay for the 10 000 dollar cost of the boiler.
so we are getting into the grow season and i have no wood and have to pay top dollar for so called cords of so called seasoned wood.
I say so called cause my last cord was 4'x4'x2' and green and he said when i talked to him a cord was AND IS 4'x4'x8' and seasoned was 2 years on the ground but yet it weighs 5 times as much as a dry piece the same size.
then you have the smoke issue..... the creasote that drips down the stack and covers the inside of the waterjacket.
all that stuff is fuel and a good boiler will burn it and make heat from it and that means less wood and less trips to the boiler .
so if you have alot of free wood on hand and dont mind loading wood at all hours of the day then do it.
lets just say i am looking into a tarm unit that burns the wood and uses half the amount as what i have.
email me at bassman(at) sasktel.net and i will show you pics of the unit in action
shayne
I live just south of Crompton's over the 'big' hill. My land starts at John St and goes north 1.5 miles. Where are you?
Bernie
I have very mixed reviews on any of the current OWB. I think the manufacturers could have done a lot better with the efficiency ratings . I can't wait for the next generation of OWB. Sign me up.
Weigle Tree Service
Well, I am working on it! OWBs are inefficient becasue they let the wood gasses escape when the blower/dampers are closed. Basically they become charcoal makers in the off mode. To make use of the wood gas, you need to step up the burn temperature and have a secondary burning chamber. But to do that you need to burn less wood at any given time, and thus load more wood in there more often, and perhaps have to start the fire more often. I am looking to marry the gassifier type boilers with the OWB type boilers, and keep it an OWB unit. Also get EPA approval, burn clean and burn efficient. A tall order, and it may take some time. Patents are an issue, as is competition, and the anti-OWB and oil lobby. Once they ban an OWB in an area, it is impossible to sell one there regardless of how clean it burns. New England and New York are rediculous in that regard.
Hi Bernie ,just got back from vacation and ready to start aquiring supplies for summer install hows your working ? I'm going to have two runs one of 150' the other 130' ,just wondering how that 15-58 pump is handling your 130' run. SinceI have to start looking around for prices etc .Hey Kam, I've got 2 lines running from the stove - one is 130' to my barn, I'm using a Grundfos 15-58 3 speed. The other run is 110' to the first house, then another 120' to the second house. I hope to get away with one pump, I am installing a Grundfos 26-99 on that loop. My math tells me it should work ok, the first house is only 900 sq ft, I plan to run the water to the 2nd house first (1600 sq ft, forced air furnace and hotwater sidearm) then run that return through the 1st house furnace and sidearm, then back to the boiler. I just finished soldering up the valve manifold for the houses, I made it so I can run one or the other house or both either in series or parallel. Its a little complicated, to say the least. I should be able to get it fired early this week, then I guess I'll know how good I am at engineering . I also plan to run the stove as hot as possible, like 190 - 195, otherwise running the water in series from house to house likely will not work.
I enjoy messing around with this stuff, this is branching out from my usual projects involving barns, cows and farm equipment.
Any other questions, just ask.
Bernie
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