false crotch questions

[dwerden]

So I am obviously new, I purchased the wesspur entry rope kit and have a few climbs under my belt and have some questions.

What do you do on a tall tree (think bush tree) that has few branches or far spaced branches that you do not intent to remove. Is it acceptable to use an arborist block cow hitched to a suitable branch for an anchor point. Are pulleys acceptable for this or just mainly for redirected and mechanical advantage? Tcc doesn't cover this stuff.

What kind if shoes do you wear while in the tree? I am using work boots but they seem big and bulky while in the tree.


So far I am having a lot of fun with this, taking it nice and slow researching lots, I'm sure I will have lots more questions I have spurs on the way

 

[Appalachian]

I think the tree climbers companion does cover exactly what you asked. Can't recite the page for you but you use two climbing lines - one that hoists the pulley and the other runs in the pulley.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

So I am obviously new, I purchased the wesspur entry rope kit and have a few climbs under my belt and have some questions.

What do you do on a tall tree (think bush tree) that has few branches or far spaced branches that you do not intent to remove. Is it acceptable to use an arborist block cow hitched to a suitable branch for an anchor point. Are pulleys acceptable for this or just mainly for redirected and mechanical advantage? Tcc doesn't cover this stuff.

What kind if shoes do you wear while in the tree? I am using work boots but they seem big and bulky while in the tree.


So far I am having a lot of fun with this, taking it nice and slow researching lots, I'm sure I will have lots more questions I have spurs on the way

Are you talking rigging line or climbing line?

 

[dwerden]

I'm talkin climbing line. All I see in the tcc is friction saver and a sling type false crotch. I'm basically asking if it is safe to put your climb line in a setup like they use to chunk down logs on a block

 

[Appalachian]

What I talking about is a floating false crotch. It's in there. You may want to re-read it front to back again.

You have to climb up to your tie in point to set your pulley with the setup in your question so I can't see how it would help

you since you would already climbed up there to you set your pulley.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

You can do that, as long as it's a good secure branch. Keep on mind your hitch will react differently than natural coaching, or even through a friction saver, you may have to adjust wraps. I'm guessing you'd looking for a way to get your tip ( tie in point ) more above you in a limbwalking situation? Cause there are easier ways to do this.

 

[dwerden]

You can do that, as long as it's a good secure branch. Keep on mind your hitch will react differently than natural coaching, or even through a friction saver, you may have to adjust wraps. I'm guessing you'd looking for a way to get your tip ( tie in point ) more above you in a limbwalking situation? Cause there are easier ways to do this.

Yes for limb walking and for long vertical branches that don't have enough limbs or big enough to get up to the top for trimming.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Look back in your TCC at double crotching and using redirects. A loop runner and biner can be your best friend. On tgose longer limbs, Leaving your primary on the main trunk and putting the tail out as far as you can toss will help get you out there, even if you aren't around a real large limb. You're still supporting most of your weight of your primary TIP, just using the secondary to move yourself out there. Jeff

 

[dwerden]

Thanks, I did see that but its all worded to use in a remote tree and I guess I didn't pay much attention as I figured it was a little over my head.

Is it also ok to use a ring style friction saver choked around the trunk as a tip or just as a redirect

 

[Appalachian]

Its good your thinking about it.

Keep in mind if you choke your tip you will have to unchoke your tip before leaving the tree.

An hms carabiner and a strap makes a good redirect since you dont have to unclip your lifeline.
It will add friction to your system however.

I like having a lanyard that can act as a second climbing line instead of/in addition to redirecting if possible.

A grillon can operate ddrt or srt or a hitch hiker as a lanyard adjuster would give the most versatility.

 

[smokey01]

So I am obviously new, I purchased the wesspur entry rope kit and have a few climbs under my belt and have some questions.

What do you do on a tall tree (think bush tree) that has few branches or far spaced branches that you do not intent to remove. Is it acceptable to use an arborist block cow hitched to a suitable branch for an anchor point. Are pulleys acceptable for this or just mainly for redirected and mechanical advantage? Tcc doesn't cover this stuff.

What kind if shoes do you wear while in the tree? I am using work boots but they seem big and bulky while in the tree.


So far I am having a lot of fun with this, taking it nice and slow researching lots, I'm sure I will have lots more questions I have spurs on the way

Welcome dwerden,
Enjoy that Wesspur kit.
I have a couple of thoughts on your inquiry.
I also assume you are climbing all DdRT, correct?
You could use the false crotch you are talking about on a spar but chances are the size will not be correct, the rings need to come together. Thus the adjustable frictions saver.
I would not use a cow hitch or timber hitch to secure your false crotch. I think a purchased adjustable friction saver is much better or make one. This is a link to some good choices for fiction savers.
I used a large ring and a figure 8, you may have one in your kit. I seldom use the 8 so it made for a good ring on the false crotch. In fact if you had two you could use them both, large ring one side, small ring on the other to make your false crotch set-up. Girth hitch/ bowline one large ring to and attache the other with a pursik to you the other side. back it up with a butterfly and biner once it is in place.
The adjustable false crotch as outline on page 50 of the TCC requires a base anchor tie off. One option to that is to use a Rock Exotica Dualcender and send that up to a canopy anchor with your climbing system attached. This will avoid the doubled load you get at your tie in point from using a base anchor.
Pages 27, 28, 44, 45, 50 and 63 in the TCC would be good review.

Cheers

Richard

 

[sgreanbeans]

I'm talkin climbing line. All I see in the tcc is friction saver and a sling type false crotch. I'm basically asking if it is safe to put your climb line in a setup like they use to chunk down logs on a block

Check out these. Caterpillar Friction Savers for up to 5/8" Lines, 3 lengths | SherrillTree.com
I use these all the time and I love them, easy in, easy out. Reduce friction greatly, like climbing on a pulley. They don't collapse so they are hard to get stuck. They keep the bend ratio nice.

 

[smokey01]

If you are going to consider sleeve style friction/cambium savers permit me to add to this advise.

The Dan House caterpillar sleeves come in a greater number of options both in length and diameter. They are of high quality as well.
This is an important issue when you want to get it over a spliced eye.
Another thought is the leather FS is more difficult to pull thru a crotch but it also stays in place much better.
You can also take the leather and sew Velcro to the seam to make it mid-line attachable for those cases when you may have a sew eye and you can not get a regular friction saver to go over it.

Link to a photo of the one I modified to put on my CELanyard before I re-sew the eye and attached a Dan House FS.

 

[dwerden]

Thanks guys, I have a Dan House friction saver coming in the mail with my spurs (supposed to be here Monday). I've been busy this week, havnt been able to get up in a tree and try any of this stuff.

 

[Zale]

If you are going to consider sleeve style friction/cambium savers permit me to add to this advise.

The Dan House caterpillar sleeves come in a greater number of options both in length and diameter. They are of high quality as well.
This is an important issue when you want to get it over a spliced eye.
Another thought is the leather FS is more difficult to pull thru a crotch but it also stays in place much better.
You can also take the leather and sew Velcro to the seam to make it mid-line attachable for those cases when you may have a sew eye and you can not get a regular friction saver to go over it.

Link to a photo of the one I modified to put on my CELanyard before I re-sew the eye and attached a Dan House FS.

[/QUOTE

Smokey- I am not busting balls here but are your sewing/splicing skills adequate to make modifications?

 

[dwerden]

Isn't worst case scenario loosing your friction saver ? It's not life or death is it ?

 

[smokey01]

Zale
It's ok. I don't wish controversy and the sewing and stitching of tight eyes is probably not a discussion in 101 so I will leave it at that. It has been discussed in other forums. I do appreciate you pointing that out and I am not recommending this to anyone, just pointing out that you can't get a cambium saver over a sewn eye. I may recommend to those interested in a CELanyard to think about having a friction saver installed when you order it.
Let me point out from the photo I attached that in this configuration the sewn eye is simply a stopper knot on the running end of the lanyard but again thanks for pointing that out so others are not confused.
Cheers.