Favorite anchor knot

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Kevin

Kevin

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If you had to secure a limb from the ground to lets say ... another tree, what knot would you choose that is secure but easy to release under tension?
 
treeclimber165

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I know one knot, but don't know the name and I'm not capable of describing it well.

For simplicity's sake, in the situation you show I'd possibly take about 4-5 wraps and then just secure with a half hitch. The wraps will hold the weight, the knot is just to keep the rope from unwrapping. This is also a great method when you are unable to reach it yourself and are trying to get a groundie to secure the line (I've only had one groundie in my life that knew more than 2 knots).

I'm looking forward to the more technical answers to follow!
 
Kevin

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If I understand correctly, the trucker would work itself back up towards the block and might get stuck there given the right circumstances.
The anchor end would have to be considerably longer I think.
Would you tie the friction hitch with a separate rope, say you have fifty feet of rope in the tree and a hundred still on the ground?
 
treeclimber165

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Since JPS hasn't gotten online yet, I'll post his answer. -

"I'd use my GRCS and raise it up off the wire, swing it over and let it down. The GRCS is something you can't do without!"

(Sorry, I forgot the misspelling) :D :laugh:
 
TheTreeSpyder

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Muenter around tree, take bight from standing end of muenter and pinch it under tensioned line (not main). 2 halfhitches for lock. daisy chain for light lock, speed release, add 'biner in end of daisy chain for temporary positive mechanical stop.

Longer holds option, Slipped Cove hitch(lower ring slipped) around tree is very flexible and easily changes to: open or half hitch or muenter hitch from being slipped. Half hitch can give some lowering control, muenter much more i think.

Is that knot the way?
 
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Kevin

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I work solo Tim.
I usually get by with just dropping stuff and it`s not a concern in my working environment.
I have a Port a Wrap.
What I usually do with the bull line when I use it without the PaW is double it with a loop at the base of the anchor tree so I don`t pull a hundred feet of slack around and around.
I might do a couple of wraps around the base of the anchor tree and finish off with two half hitches which is similar to what Brian suggested I think.
 
Tim Gardner

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Kevin.

You could take a few wraps around another limb and lock it off, then lower the limb after you make your cut. The limb might get hung up on the way down. That would keep you from having to climb down and back up again. A figure 8 descender would work well in the tree too.
 
treeclimber165

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I had a guy Monday fighting the bull rope trying to pull a double wrap around the tree. He would walk halfway around and then stop and start snatching the rope behind him. Then he would take another half-wrap and snatch some more rope behind him. After watching him do this several times I suggested that he coil up the extra rope in one hand and carry it around the tree rather than fighting it. He was amazed at how much faster it was, and I didn't have to wait as long for him. :rolleyes:

Like Tim said, too: You could always whack off a 3"-4" limb and use the stub as a makeshift PW from in the tree. I do this frequently on removals to assist the groundmen (or so I don't have to explain what I am doing and wait for them to figure out how to take a wrap). That way I can lower the limb from in the tree after cutting it and putting my saw away.
 
Kevin

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I use a safety 8 on a biner attached to a sling around a limb in the tree and it works well.
I can`t say I`m crazy about letting my ropes drag around a tree for friction,can`t be good for them.
 
TheTreeSpyder

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"If you had to secure a limb from the ground to lets say ... another tree, what knot would you choose that is secure but easy to release under tension?"

Sorry, i kinda took that to mean pretty device free, besides line and anchor! Device wise, i too would go with PW, perhaps with same standard lock/release provisions!
 
John Paul Sanborn

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Eye sling around the anchor tree , then a munter on a biner locked with a half hitch. Or an eight locked off. or a tress hitch

I would use anything that would keep me from wraping the rope around a tree.


GRCS, good answer, but not to the question asked. I think it would save Kevin a lot of time, but he is not buying his gear it seems. Short sighted beancounters look at four figured requisitions and draw lines through them. If he comes to TCI, maybe I can sell him on it.
 
Kevin

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JP,
I buy my own climbing and rigging gear, they pay me to use it.
They are also contracting to a general contractor but they are unskilled and ill equipped for tree work.
The contractor has been sent three times to take the same balsm and it`s still standing??
I have a PaW but most situations don`t require using it although if I master the static retrieve I might use it more.
If I was working in and around buildings like you guys are the GCRS would be worth buying.
When the big limbs come down and one end is on the cable and the other is still attached to the tree the force is always back towards me and the tree when the limb is cut.
If I can rig a quick static retrieve into another tree to put the pulling force on the limb up and away from the tree I`m working in I`d be set up much better.
 
Stumper

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Brian's answer is about as simple and foolproof as it can get. If I just need a releasable tie off I also throw a couple of wraps locked off with half hitches. If I need to add some tension I'll run the rope around a tree or through a block (preferable) back to an 'improved' truckers hitch (an alpine butterfly in the standing line) and lock off with a slipped half hitch. The figure 8 in the tree is handy at times.
 
Bradley

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I like to use a trucker's hitch alot. It's a quick way to add some tension or let some off if you need to due to its mechanical advantage. I don't use the butterfly any more for this after I learned the inline figure eight. It's alot stronger and quicker for me to tie.
 
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