Fiddle Blocks..How they work?

[Canyonbc]

I was flipping through the Sherrill 2007 catalog and on page 53, upper right hand corner i was looking at the Fiddle Block system - item number SET82.

I think its an awesome lifting device but i am not grasping on how it connects to the Porta Wrap...or your bull line. It looks like a Prusik is used to attach on to the bull line and then a carabiner to the Porty...

Thanks in advance...

Does any one know of a good video showing the use of a fiddle block system...

Thanks

Mike

 

[2FatGuys]

I was flipping through the Sherrill 2007 catalog and on page 53, upper right hand corner i was looking at the Fiddle Block system - item number SET82.

I think its an awesome lifting device but i am not grasping on how it connects to the Porta Wrap...or your bull line. It looks like a Prusik is used to attach on to the bull line and then a carabiner to the Porty...
Mike

That's EXACTLY how we connect our fiddle blocks. We use a 4 wrap prussik on the bull line and a steel carabiner on the fixed end.

 

[Canyonbc]

That's EXACTLY how we connect our fiddle blocks. We use a 4 wrap prussik on the bull line and a steel carabiner on the fixed end.

Thanks for the information...

I just wasnt sure if i was correct or not so i thought i would ask.

How high to you like to connect them on the bull line? Does it depend of every situation or something you just get use to and know. Looking for any guide lines on it.

Thanks again.

Mike

 

[2FatGuys]

We use MA (mechanical advantage) a LOT on bull lines. The general rule is to keep it all within reach. Using a prussik to attach to the bull line allows you to pull it in tight, lock it off, then readjust the prussik for another pull. If we are using a 1/2" line to rig with, we sometimes run the rigging line itself through the pulleys. To do that requires a second prussik at the anchor end of the rigging line to act as a lock so that the pulleys can be re-adjusted for another pull.

 

[Canyonbc]

We use MA (mechanical advantage) a LOT on bull lines. The general rule is to keep it all within reach. Using a prussik to attach to the bull line allows you to pull it in tight, lock it off, then readjust the prussik for another pull. If we are using a 1/2" line to rig with, we sometimes run the rigging line itself through the pulleys. To do that requires a second prussik at the anchor end of the rigging line to act as a lock so that the pulleys can be re-adjusted for another pull.

Understandable i like that.

Would you, or anyone else have recomendatation on what fiddle block set up to get...i know Sherrill, Wesspur, Baileys and other all carry them...are any of them really better then the other, or does it boil down to personal preference?

Thanks

Mike

 

[2FatGuys]

Understandable i like that.

Would you, or anyone else have recomendatation on what fiddle block set up to get...i know Sherrill, Wesspur, Baileys and other all carry them...are any of them really better then the other, or does it boil down to personal preference?

Thanks

Mike

I have seen sets based on what looks like marine block system in many catalogs. They appear to be mostly plastic and not "tough" like most of our rigging equipment. That is probably an unfair assessment though. While I like the integral progress capture of these, I just can't get comfortable considering using that system. It is available several different places and looks like this:

On the other hand, the "old school" double sheave pulleys with prussiz progrees capture seem strong and reliable. We started out using some old double sheave pulleys we had laying around the farm. Eventually we moved to newer, lighter ones similar to those available from Sherrill:

We keep at least one pair of double sheave pulleys in each rigging bag, along with prussik loops and carabiners.

 

[treeclimber jul]

I have the top pictured one and like it, but as said it doesen't look like it it would take a beating and keep going. No problems with mine but I try not to beat it up.

 

[Slvrmple72]

Have the top set up pictured. They will lift the weight for sure! I try not to beat up these fiddle blocks or my Arb Blocks for that matter. Keep them from getting dropped or banged on concrete, keep dirt out of them, dont drop them connected to limbs where they may get crushed and you will get plenty of years of useful service out of them... till you get a GRCS and then they will mostly collect dust. I like the double sheaves in the second pick for the same thing: Mechanical advantage for pulling over leaners or when you really want to control the direction of fall. A lot cheaper and less mess than using a Bull Elephant Arbormaster DVD series shows great instructional operations on all of these.