Finally got a real test for the DN361

[Haywire Haywood]

Haven't really come across any big wood to put the 361 to the test till this evening. The state is putting in a new interstate exchange, widening a 1.5 lane road to 4 and has been clearing the new right of ways for it (they're ruining some nice countryside, but that is for another topic). In one of the remaining dozer piles I found a 23x26 cherry. Probably would have been worth a pretty penny at the saw mill. I was running Woodsman Pro 30SCS (semi-chisel skip) on the 24" Windsor Speed Tip and I'm very happy with how it did. Needless to say, there was no dogging it in and pushing to any extent, but all I had to do was pay attention to the tone of the engine, and with a sharp chain it sank right through at what I thought was an astounding rate of speed. I'm now very much confident that it will handle anything I have any business putting a saw into.

--Ian

 

[PA Plumber]

Thanks for the field report. Good pic too.:camera:

 

[441_Stihl]

great you cant stop a Stihl

 

[XJWoody]

Cool!

Great pic & nice find. Did you just go out into the right-of-way disaster area and cut that round or did ya get the whole tree?

In my construction surveying days, seen a bunch of otherwise useful trees laid to waste in the 'clearing & grubbing' phase of road building. Kinda sad to see a dozer and hoe make a mess-pile of them, then burned off.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I got about half of it, going back for the other half tomorrow after work if someone doesn't beat me to it, which is likely. I wasn't the only one cutting wood, just the only one stup.... uhm... courageous enough to climb the pile to cut off the rootball before pulling it out. I forgot to mark the 24" bar at the 18" point, so I ended up cutting the first 2 rounds about 4" too long. Hence, I had a 4" cookie to bring back for a photo op.

Ian

 

[Bowtie]

I am a crane operator for a bridge contractor here in Kansas and I get most of my firewood from clearing and grubbing. I spent 1 and a half days this spring on I-70 building an access road down a wooded slope by Abilene for a bridge we were demo'ing and rebuilding. Mostly locust, ash, hackberry. Its a sweet deal for me, because I dont have to feel bad for killing live trees since they have to be removed by the plans, and I get all kinds of firewood, sometimes even get to process it and load it on the clock! I love having a cool boss ( he burns wood also ).

 

[Dok]

I am a crane operator for a bridge contractor here in Kansas and I get most of my firewood from clearing and grubbing. I spent 1 and a half days this spring on I-70 building an access road down a wooded slope by Abilene for a bridge we were demo'ing and rebuilding. Mostly locust, ash, hackberry. Its a sweet deal for me, because I dont have to feel bad for killing live trees since they have to be removed by the plans, and I get all kinds of firewood, sometimes even get to process it and load it on the clock! I love having a cool boss ( he burns wood also ).

That works out good for the both of you. He's getting paid for the removal of the trees no matter what.

Nice score on that tree, Haywire! That's a nice saw too.
Brad

 

[Greg Lees]

Haywire - I just did a search for Windsor bars and saw your post and picture. I just got the same bar for my MS460 (and MS361) and had a question. Have you (or anyone else with this same bar) made any plunge cuts with it? I asked the folks at Windsor and Madsen's before I purchased it and they both said the bar would plunge just fine, but the bar is a bit narrower at the tip than my shorter Stihl ES (wide radius) bar I already had and wondered if the narrower radius was a weakness.

Other than a felling cut, I like to plunge downed trees when the bark is dirty to keep the chain away from the outside grit as long as possible. I mostly cut hardwoods.

Thanks. Greg

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Nope, I haven't done any plunge cuts with it, sorry.

Ian

 

[361kid]

I've been thinking of having my 361 done by Dave. Is it worth it? Is there a noticable difference in power compared to stock. I'd like to run a 24" but I want to have it modded first. Do you have his email address? How much did it run you? Sorry for all the questions, just curious.

 

[Lakeside53]

I've been thinking of having my 361 done by Dave. Is it worth it? Is there a noticable difference in power compared to stock. I'd like to run a 24" but I want to have it modded first. Do you have his email address? How much did it run you? Sorry for all the questions, just curious.

Try a muffler mod first.. That alone is a big improvement..

 

[GASoline71]

Try a muffler mod first.. That alone is a big improvement..

Yup... what he said.

Gary

 

[Lakeside53]

And how would you know????

 

[Haywire Haywood]

It's not what I did, but I have to agree with Andy and he others. Do a muffler mod and see how you like it before you decide. If you do decide to get it ported, then Big Dave has my recommendation.

Ian

 

[SawTroll]

Haywire - I just did a search for Windsor bars and saw your post and picture. I just got the same bar for my MS460 (and MS361) and had a question. Have you (or anyone else with this same bar) made any plunge cuts with it? I asked the folks at Windsor and Madsen's before I purchased it and they both said the bar would plunge just fine, but the bar is a bit narrower at the tip than my shorter Stihl ES (wide radius) bar I already had and wondered if the narrower radius was a weakness.

Other than a felling cut, I like to plunge downed trees when the bark is dirty to keep the chain away from the outside grit as long as possible. I mostly cut hardwoods.

Thanks. Greg

The wide tipped (13 teeth) 3/8" Stihl bars are specially designed for plunge cutting, as far as I know.

Most other bars out there have an 11 t tip, some just 10 t or even 9......

 

[ChuckinOhio]

Would it not stand to reason that a narrower tip bar would be more auitable for plunge cutting due to having a smaller kickback zone versus a wider nose bar??
If I am all wet in that line of reasoning, please correct me.


Chuck

 

[SawTroll]

The narrower the tip is, the more will the rakers obstruct the cutters function at the tip.
It is the cutting at that point that is most important during bore-cutting.

Different types of rakers also make a differense......

 

[ChuckinOhio]

Ahhhhh

Now I see the difference.

Thanks alot troll.

Chuck

 

[Greg Lees]

The narrower the tip is, the more will the rakers obstruct the cutters function at the tip.
It is the cutting at that point that is most important during bore-cutting.

Different types of rakers also make a differense......

I'm not sure I understand. I inquired whether the narrower tip was weaker (or unsafe) when plunging, i.e., wouldn't recommend it be done on a regular basis.

Are you saying the narrower tip is not safe for plunge cutting or its just slower when used to plunge cut? I checked width of both bars just before the radius (with the chain on) and the Stihl is 3.875" and the Windsor is 3.50". It appeared there were the same amount of cutters counted within the radii of both bars.

Thanks. Greg

 

[CaseyForrest]

I'm not sure I understand. I inquired whether the narrower tip was weaker (or unsafe) when plunging, i.e., wouldn't recommend it be done on a regular basis.

Are you saying the narrower tip is not safe for plunge cutting or its just slower when used to plunge cut? I checked width of both bars just before the radius (with the chain on) and the Stihl is 3.875" and the Windsor is 3.50". It appeared there were the same amount of cutters counted within the radii of both bars.

Thanks. Greg

Its not the number of cutters exposed on the tip, its the bite they are going to take. With a smaller radius tip the raker of each cutter is exposing more of the cutter. Bigger bite equals higher kickback potential.