Finally Purchased LT10 and ready to Learn!

[Dad2FourWI]

Hello all!!!

OK, I finally purchased a LT10 (have not even picked it up yet!!)... so now I need some advice, resources, etc to make my entry into this new endeavor as painless as possible...

I have Red Pine (Norway), Jack Pine, White Pine, Red Oak, and some Maples that are either down or in various stages of coming down... so I would like to start with these.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to start my sawyer education???

Many thanks,
-Dad2Four

 

[ridecaptain]

The LT10 manual has some very helpfull info on sawing technics and yields.

 

[ridecaptain]

I saw mostly southern yellow pine and find debarking makes blade stay sharp 3 times longer,you will need at least one peavey (built my own) and if adding bed extenions at least one additional log clamp. You will also need 4x6 or 6x6 to mount rails too.Very wise choice with the LT10,but this will cause CAD if you don't already have it.now that you have a mill you will need more and bigger chainsaws.

 

[Dad2FourWI]

@ ridecaptain,

Thanks for the info!

I have not picked up the mill yet so I am guessing the manuals and info are waiting for me...

I was just so excited that I guess I am jumping the gun!!!

Many thanks and let me know if you think of anything else.

-Dad2Four

 

[MHouse1028]

congrats on the new mill!

 

[Dad2FourWI]

@ MHouse1028,

Thanks!!! <grin> I feel like a kid with a new toy!

Now I just have lots of reading & learning!!!

-Dad2Four

 

[MHouse1028]

i remember when i got my first bandmill and had really no idea how to use it ..it was a ross bandmill very old school..it had a small 5 hp honda on it.I thought i was the man hahaha..but that first piece i cut was what got me hooked and have been milling ever since. now you'll be looking at every tree and saying I wonder what that looks like milled..i love it...good luck

 

[qweesdraw]

If at all possible stay away from property line trees.(nails/wire)
Get a metal dector (HFT sells a hand held for about $20)
I use windshield washer fluid instead of water in the winter in case you forget to drain your bottle.l(i learned the hard way on that one)
To get practice in cut up some stickers 1x1 (kerf on my LT 10 is 1/4")you will need them!
I will be trying a few jigs for milling shorter logs and curved logs and cookies,i will post pic's if they work.
(i can't do anything until snow and ice thaws)
Have Fun!
Mark

 

[gemniii]

Hello all!!!

OK, I finally purchased a LT10 (have not even picked it up yet!!)... so now I need some advice, resources, etc to make my entry into this new endeavor as painless as possible...

I have Red Pine (Norway), Jack Pine, White Pine, Red Oak, and some Maples that are either down or in various stages of coming down... so I would like to start with these.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to start my sawyer education???

Many thanks,
-Dad2Four

Congrats!

Which one did you get?
The 2012 model or pre2012?

I bought one last year and didn't get to use it until last month.
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/191620.htm

Note that the mast is HEAVY. I put everything together by myself but needed an engine hoist to put the mast on.

Also be sure to have a short allen wrench, as I wrote, there is a tight fit.

.

If it's brand new pay attention to assembly instructions and it should be a breeze.

 

[Talltom]

How are you going to dry the lumber you cut? It's best to have this worked out before you start cutting.

 

[Dad2FourWI]

Hello all !!!

@MHouse1028, I walked through the woods today and looked at the numerous windfalls.... and at each one I was thinking about how well they might mill up!!! <grin>

@qweesdraw, ok, thanks, I will be looking at metal detectors!!!! I purchased the windshield washer fluid yesterday and I am all ready to cut stickers!! Thanks for the tips!!!!!!

@gemniii, I am not sure... I still do not have the actual mill... pre/post 2012... but thanks for the warnings! I have some strong backs for the setup... wife, 3 sons, large dog, etc.... hopefully that will be enough!<grin> Gee, I can hardly stand to wait!!!!

@Talltom, heh, heh,... I have been thinking about that very thing!!! I just found an article (link from this site) on solar kilns... I have some long logs in the barn right now that have been drying for 2 years... but I know that once I really start cutting I will need a way to dry the lumber. Do you have any suggestions???? I am all ears... believe me!!!

@all, than you all for the feedback, ideas, everything!

I am living on the farm right now so my ability to access the internet is a bit limited, but I will keep you all posted.... and I just purchased a new camera too so some pics are on the way! I may even bore you all to death by posting some of the cabin we are building!!!! Don't get too excited... it has some logs for the main supports but it is a SIP (structural insulated panel) house that we put together as a family. The internal support timbers are Red Pine from our woods.

OK, gotta run... take care and thanks again for all the help!!!

-Dad2Four

 

[qweesdraw]

After noticing the new LT10 i would definitely put it up on beams!
The new 45's between the rails i am sure will stabilize it but shoveling out sawdust will be easier with beams under your rails.
On the exit sawdust side i rake it down to roll logs on since i rarely have help no tractor just me and the cant hook.
WEAR A DUST MASK!! especially with walnut or you will be hacking blowing your nose @ supper time.
If you have no roof and snow it melts a bit sawdust will be like a ROCK!
Lowes has a digital moisture merer for $30 made by General,i highly recommend this one.!

 

[Talltom]

If you can store the lumber in a barn, that's great. Even if you decide on a kiln, you'll need interim storage for what you cut between kiln runs. I would recommend at least 2 stacks so you have flexibility in the order you saw logs. Otherwise, you'll need to saw the longer logs first or restack the pile to put the longer boards on the bottom. Lots of info on this site re stacking and drying. Basics are dry, flat surface with air circulation, get the stack up off the floor a few inches, stickers made from dry wood at least every 2 ft, and weights or straps to keep the boards flat. You'll need LOTS of stickers. You can make your own from offcuts, but these will take some time to dry. I used 3/4" exterior plywood strips for my initial stickers because I had it available. Any dry wood will do as long as it's of uniform thickness.

 

[Dad2FourWI]

Hey all!

@qweesdraw, thanks... I will pick up some good sized beams.... too bad I can't make my own ... yet! A digital moisture reader sounds like a good idea!!

@Talltom, the barn was last year's project and a spot was built in mind for the mill!<grin> Can't wait to fill that area!!! As for the stickers... it feels like the chicken and the egg... I would like to make my own, but then I have to dry them but I don't want to take a lot of time either... and if I cut stickers, what do I use to sticker them?!? HA! I need stickers for my stickers!<grin>

General question ... I would like to make some T&G boards for the inside of the cabin... does anyone have any good suggestions on how to tackle this??? I saw the neatest machine at last years Farm Tech Show in Marshfield, WI by Wood Mizer that took rough cut boards and it planed them, sized them, and shaped them all in one step!!!! I was drooling... but the sticker price is WAY too much for this under-employed wood worker wana-be!!! Any ideas, suggestions, etc are appreciated!

OK, I better get back to work... it is a beautiful day here in Wiconsin and I have a lot to work to do!<grin>

-Dad2Four

 

[Talltom]

You can reduce drying time for stickers by milling them close to their final size and stacking them in a crosshatch pattern in a dry, heated space. I rip mine to 1" x about 7/8" and then plane them to 3/4" thick later. They only need to get down to about 20% MC if used outside and they should do this in 3 months or so. Even if they're not dried through, they're good to use as long as the surface is dry and they're uniform thickness and MC. If you're not sure they're dry, leave them a little thick and mark them so you can check their thickness later vs other batches. You could use green stickers for the first pile, but you risk sticker stain and mold. Better to bite the bullet and make your initial batch from dry wood or plywood. Once you get milling fever, there will be plenty of opportunity for you to make stickers from your own wood.

Several companies make machines that mill all 4 sides of a board at the same time & they are very convenient and very expensive. T&G paneling is mostly edge work and can be done on planed lumber with a shaper or router table and the appropriate bits (which are pretty expensive too). Just takes a lot longer.

 

[qweesdraw]

You can make your beams now.
Mill from the ground now make beams and treat them(I use oil change oil from my truck/car)
Let it soak in do it again next oil change any extra treat any wood on your trailers!(Cottonwood makes the best for these)
Come thaw time lift it up and install.
Mark

 

[qweesdraw]

Mill now for bottoms treat with
(used engine oil paint brush)X all it will take
When thaw comes install

 

[Dad2FourWI]

Hi All,

@Talltom, thanks for the feedback!!! When you rip yours to 1" x about 7/8" and later you plane them to 3/4".... do you plane both dims to 3/4" or do you plane just the 7/8" side to 3/4" leaving you with 1" x 3/4"????

As for the T&G boards... I have more time than $$$ these days... do you have any suggestions on how to start creating mine own? Any suggestions/ideas are welcome! Those neat one-pass machines are really cool... but out of this wood-butcher's price range!!!<grin>

@qweesdraw, thanks for the info on the beams!... ok, I will reserve a few of my semi-dried timbers for beams for the mill to sit upon!!!

And as I promised, here is a pic of the cabin we are working on... the exterior walls are SIPs, and the wood columns are right from the farm!!!

View attachment 224739

Any ideas on how to finish-off the inside of this cabin are very much appreciated!!!!!! I am getting tired of looking at particle board!<grin>

-Dad2Four

 

[Talltom]

I plane one dimension only for a 1"x3/4" sticker. You could plane both dimensions to make square stickers, but I don't see the point, as long as you can easily distinguish the planed dimension from the one that isn't. Stickers that aren't square also provide an advantage when stacking heavy boards near the top of a stack. It's difficult to set these boards with the stickers in place - much easier to slide them across the boards below, lift the ends and place stickers under the board with the long dimension up, place the stickers under the board in the middle with the short dimension up, and then reset the ends to the short dimension. Other boards in the same level can be slid along the board in place and flipped onto the stickers. My stacks are 4' wide and I make most of my stickers 2' long so I can stack each side of the pile separately. You'll need some shorter stickers also for when the boards on the same level are not the same thickness. I have a bunch of 12" and 8" stickers for this.

Several manufacturers make matched sets of router bits for T&G edges. You could do this on a tablesaw, but it's a lot more work. Plane your boards to a uniform thickness before you do the edges and work from the same face for all of the boards. You'll want at least a V-groove on the face at the joint for a shadow line to hide the inevitable shrinking and swelling in the boards. You could also consider shiplap joints. They would be easier to do on tablesaw and would give you a more rustic look, especially if using wide boards or boards of different widths. Your boards will need to be pretty dry to use them for interior panelling.

 

[SDB777]

Best way to learn is to actually load a log on the bunk and cut it up

Scott (LT10 in my yard too) B