Finally!!! The T-25 is running!!!!!!! Reporting on how it did with an Airecut.

[ANewSawyer]

Well, I called my friend the small engine mechanic this past Saturday. He said my Shindaiwa was running and I could come pick it up. He cranked it and let me try it out on some tall grass. It seemed to do fine, so I absconded with it. The Airecut is great. Except that I need a guard to go on this thing. I took a couple of piece of something in the throat. Fortunately, what ever hit me was small. Oh, and I got plastered with shredded vegetation. I forgot that I had my check book in my pocket while I was using the Airecut. So today, I pull my check book out in church and this small, dry leaf falls out.

Now to more crunchy topics. There is so much less resistance with the blade vs string that I am very afraid of running it full throttle without load. I mean it was screaming. Really screaming. I got to where I was just feathering the throttle and it worked just fine. If I wasn't afraid of cooking the gear box, I would order the 300mm Airecut. I may try it anyway because I also found the 25omm to be really small for what I was doing. I was clearing honey suckle vines (really soft stuff but to tangly for string.) I found some blackberries hiding in there though. I would try to shred them in and up and down motion. It took me a couple of trys to get the feel for where everything should be to hit a stalk. I stayed well away from anything woody and stopped to check the tightness of the blade retaining bolt often.

I haven't found my working rhythm yet so my movements were clunky and awkward. This was on a bank too. I know that banks are one of the most dangerous places to work but it was where I needed to clear. I had someone watching me almost the entire time, just in case I lost a foot or something happened.

Well, I am going to have to run this unit some more to know if it will do all the clearing that I need. My main concern is damage to the gear box or the splined drive shaft that comes out of the gear box.

Trying to work safe,
Charles

 

[alderman]

Cutting with a blade takes a bunch more trigger work than using a string. If you want to cut bigger stuff you might want to try a C35 or larger.

 

[CR888]

l have blades for both 29 and 54 cc b/cutters and prefer to use the big Solo 154 when using a blade. One thing a clearing saw has over a b/cutter or trimmer is a thicker diameter steel shaft. You always hit stuff and at over 10k its testing on a smaller unit. lf l am using the blade on the smaller 29cc multi unit it uses a smaller lighter blade to reduce stress on gearbox/shaft. lt's not neccesarily that smaller unit are lacking in power more lacking in strength. All this makes more sense after several hundred hours hanging on to these units. l believe the shindaiwa 25cc units have one of the best reputations in the industry.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Cutting with a blade takes a bunch more trigger work than using a string. If you want to cut bigger stuff you might want to try a C35 or larger.

I can't thank the people like you and jughead enough for you support and advice.
Right now, I am trying to decide whether to get a bigger unit or not. What CR888 said below is true. Price isn't a problem for me right now. I just don't want to buy something I won't use. Unfortunately, I am the only one who can say whether or not I will use it!

lt's not neccesarily that smaller unit are lacking in power more lacking in strength.

Bingo. I think that this has more than enough power to cut my whole property but will it stand up to that kind of use? I am not sure. I am thinking about getting a 336FR or, more likely, a 345FR from Husqvarna. The two units are so close in price, I would just as soon get the bigger unit. Not just for the blade ability. I think I would probably use them with string more than anything else. And string needs a lot of power.

 

[jughead500]

Congratulations. Hope you get many more years of use out of it.

 

[ANewSawyer]

I got the debris guard mounted today and did some trimming with the string head. The guard needs adjusted because I feel like it is cutting the string too short by about an 1/2 inch. While I was trimming I still found that she wanted to die after idling for a little bit. Maybe 10 or 15 seconds. The longer she stayed at WOT, the longer she would idle. But it is usable in this state. I couldn't say that before. I noticed that if I took the slack out of the throttle cable it seemed to help. Don't think I was switching to the high speed circuit. I was literally taking the slack cable. I almost couldn't perceive an increase in RPMs but the idle just sounded slightly better. Hard to put into words. I need to do some experimenting tomorrow. At some point, I would like to have a look at the clutch. Just out of curiousity.

Either way, I do have a working weedeater that I need to put to work.

 

[CR888]

lf the line head is spinning a bit at idle your clutch springs are starting to go, if the line head spins when you pull the starter cord they are busted and need replacing. lt seems to me at idle your carb is tuned to rich and only when the engine hot will it behave properly. l just think it needs a good tune. After getting the L needle tuned you will probably have to alter the H a bit to. Start at Carb makers settings according to its model and go from there. You want good instant throttle response and a tach can dile in your H to max rpm for the attachment.

 

[ANewSawyer]

I just got it back from the local small engine guy. He just tuned it and told me not to touch the screws. This was before I was using it yesterday. When I worked on it, I couldn't get it to idle when warm because she was flooding herself. But only when warm. Believe me, I tried the factory settings. I ain't gonna tell him, but I turned the idle speed screw in just a bit. One of the springs in the clutch may be going and that is making me keep the speed screw really low, thus flooding.