Finished My Mill

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TNMIKE

TNMIKE

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Great job. That is about the slickest homemade alaskan type mill I have seen. Those old saws sound more like motorcycle engines than chainsaws. Ive got two old David Bradleys that will deafen you.

Thanks for posting...
 
820wards

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jerry, others have spoke of it in regular cs's. after they came thru the cut--it slowed down,and they shut it off--some have mentioned not to do that--let it idle for a bit--to cool it down--as milling really creats heat-the one time i milled the cottonwood with a old 090--i let it idle for about 1 min--

I would have let it idle between cuts, but we were dealing with a neighbor with a new baby and we didn't want to make that loud of noise too long. In future milling I will be out in the open where I can let it idol after making cuts. Beining under a pattio cover didn't help either, it just amplified the noise.

Thanks for the reminder.

jerry-
 
820wards

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Thanks for the vid, and pics of the dual carbed 820 (082).

I can see, or should I say hear why they called that old screamer an Power Bee. Man that engine sounds like a torque Monster!
Props for the excellent engineering and choice of powerplant.

That engine is an old moPar engine is it not?

I think Mike Acres site lists the powerheads as coming from Chrysler marine division.


This motor is a Chrysler engine. From what I researched on the PowerBee motors the Chrysler motor had the best tolerances during manufacturing. The motors were manufactured for a snow scooter that Chrysler Marine Division marketed back East. I can only imagine riding something like that. Being a West Coast guy, we never saw anything like that out here.

jerry-
 
sachsmo

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This motor is a Chrysler engine. From what I researched on the PowerBee motors the Chrysler motor had the best tolerances during manufacturing. The motors were manufactured for a snow scooter that Chrysler Marine Division marketed back East. I can only imagine riding something like that. Being a West Coast guy, we never saw anything like that out here.

jerry-



Cool stuff Jerry,


Now I really want one of those Wards 820s. Is that cream/gold color scheme original? Wow! looks like Dads old outboard, and made by his favorite Auto Company. Any other saws that you can think of use that powerhead?


Thanks Man, Mo
 
Kicker_92

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Very nice mill, and thanks for the video!

You might want to try dropping those rakers a bunch, you've got tons of torque to make use of. It looks a bit scary when the chain first grabs into the wood!

I'm sure in larger wood that mill will really shine...:cheers:
 
820wards

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Cool stuff Jerry,


Now I really want one of those Wards 820s. Is that cream/gold color scheme original? Wow! looks like Dads old outboard, and made by his favorite Auto Company. Any other saws that you can think of use that powerhead?


Thanks Man, Mo


The cream/gold color scheme is the original colors for the saw.

West Ben sold their version using the 820. There is one other saw, but I can't remember. I'll do some checking.

jerry-
 
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Very nice mill, and thanks for the video!

You might want to try dropping those rakers a bunch, you've got tons of torque to make use of. It looks a bit scary when the chain first grabs into the wood!

I'm sure in larger wood that mill will really shine...:cheers:


The chain was new, so I though I'd try it with the factory height. When I sharpen the chain I will try lowering the rakers by .005" and try it that way.

Would I want a deeper cut for only soft woods or is it OK for hard woods like Oak which I plan to mill?

Starting the first cut I should have had the side guide next to the wood and I didn't, it's a learning curve thing. Once into the wood it cut easily. I was only using 3/4 throttle and I'm running the fuel mixture a bit rich. Being a new motor and burning a piston or scoring a cylinder running it flat out is not what I wanted to do.

jerry-
 
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Kicker_92

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The chain was new, so I though I'd try it with the factory height. When I sharp the chain I will try lowering the rakers by .005" and try it that way.
jerry-

I've been finding that the surface finish is more determined by the filing angle than the raker depth, at least in the Fir (softwood) that I've been cutting. For your setup, since your already on a 9-pin sprocket, lowering the rakers is going to be your main way of controlling the feedrate and rpm in the cut.

Have fun!
 
striperswaper
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excellent craftsmanship!
if you are still looking for some type of muffler, you might want to look into Supertrapp. not cheap but from what you have done I would think you copy their design or just buy the discs from them. its a tunable design so you can get a power and sound balance that you like by increasing/decreasing the number of discs you install
happy milling and post vids when you get it some big wood
 
820wards

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excellent craftsmanship!
if you are still looking for some type of muffler, you might want to look into Supertrapp. not cheap but from what you have done I would think you copy their design or just buy the discs from them. its a tunable design so you can get a power and sound balance that you like by increasing/decreasing the number of discs you install
happy milling and post vids when you get it some big wood

Had a guy that my brother works with gave me a similar muffler from a 400cc Suzuski. I'm going to see if I can modify it for the mill.

jerry-
 
820wards

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post some pics
does it have fiberglass that you can repack?
depending on sound level you probably will need far fewer discs than 400cc
used

Haven't had time to mess with it yet, so I don't know if it is fiberglass or metal disks in the muffler. Went out milling yesterday on a Russian Elm tree. I have a line on a big Camphor tree next week so I'll try getting to the muffler later this week.

jerry-
 
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