Flex Liner Insulation

[curdy]

I've done some searching and seen this topic mentioned here and there, but I thought the subject could use some more attention. So I decided to start a thread specifically for insulation around a flex liner.

I myself do not have any insulation right now around mine, nor do I have any kind of plate where the damper used to be. I'm certainly all for more efficient heating, so I'm open to your opinions. I think there's others out there with the same questions I have regarding this overall topic.

I do sweep myself, and was impressed that after a full season of heating last year there really wasn't that much creosote in the liner. So I guess I'm a little more interested in hearing if you guys think there's a big difference in heat output/efficiency.

As always, pictures are greatly appreciated!

 

[Wood Scrounge]

I would strongly encourage you to fabricate a plate from some sheet Al and stuff half a roll of chimney insulation up there blocking the thing off completely. Seems like a lot of heat would be wasted going up the masonry part of the chimney. I will get a picture next time I pull the stove out for cleaning.

 

[curdy]

I would strongly encourage you to fabricate a plate from some sheet Al and stuff half a roll of chimney insulation up there blocking the thing off completely.

You live in Chester County as well!?! Where? Let me know where to get a roll "chimney insulation". Only insulation I've heard of before that is designed for a liner is a sleeve and I've heard they're VERY expensive. So if there's something different...which it sounds like your stuff is, I'm all ears.

Seems like a lot of heat would be wasted going up the masonry part of the chimney.

Yeah, I'd agree. Thing is though that right now we're heating 2 floors of maybe 1800-1900 sq ft to anywhere from 75-70 degrees (exception would be the room with the insert!). And I'm getting about 6-7 hours of good heat producing burns right now. What are your thoughts on that? Do you think insulating it will really increase those numbers? First guess would be that it certainly wouldn't hurt...but is there much sense in spending time on fabricating a plate and paying for insulation if it only makes a minimal increase?

Thanks!

 

[curdy]

I've heard of this vermiculite stuff mentioned here before. What is it exactly and where do you get it?

 

[Wood Scrounge]

You live in Chester County as well!?! Where? Let me know where to get a roll "chimney insulation". Only insulation I've heard of before that is designed for a liner is a sleeve and I've heard they're VERY expensive. So if there's something different...which it sounds like your stuff is, I'm all ears.

Yeah, I'd agree. Thing is though that right now we're heating 2 floors of maybe 1800-1900 sq ft to anywhere from 75-70 degrees (exception would be the room with the insert!). And I'm getting about 6-7 hours of good heat producing burns right now. What are your thoughts on that? Do you think insulating it will really increase those numbers? First guess would be that it certainly wouldn't hurt...but is there much sense in spending time on fabricating a plate and paying for insulation if it only makes a minimal increase?

Thanks!

This is what I have http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=302
The stove shop in phoenixville has it too


Sounds like you are getting good performance now, but for 30 min of work and maybe $40 you would get a lot of bang for your buck and time. the plate might not even be nessasry but was cheap and easy so why not. I made my plate in 20 min with a pair of tin snips and 6 sheet metal screws

 

[curdy]

Neat site, thanks. So you just placed some of that insulation up there then installed the plate? Did you seal around the plate with any high temp caulk? I'm interested to see some pictures whenever you clean it out next.

 

[Wood Scrounge]

I didn't bother just screwd the plate to the flue fixture. The insulation is pretty thick in there

 

[Brush Hog]

I'm installing one this week and stove shop gave me a plate that you silicone to the top of the chimney and pipe goes through. Now I've got to fix the chip in the chimney tile and re-point the top:censored:. Maybe I'll just block off at damper and re-point at a later date. You know the easy way out

 

[curdy]

I'm installing one this week and stove shop gave me a plate that you silicone to the top of the chimney and pipe goes through. Now I've got to fix the chip in the chimney tile and re-point the top:censored:. Maybe I'll just block off at damper and re-point at a later date. You know the easy way out

I think what you're talking about is the flashing that goes on top. Yes, I have one of those. What you mentioned about blocking off at the damper is what Wood Scrounge and TreeCo were talking about.

If you end up making a plate to block off at the damper, let us know how it goes...and if you're able to take some pictures that always much appreciated!

 

[Brush Hog]

They have a kit you can buy to do. After further inspection of my chimney I found out it's the furnace flue that's chipped but top needs rebuild still not re-pointing. I was wrong with my mason terms. Check out www.********** they have some pics of people that made their own block off plates. I'm just going with one on top of chimney.

 

[curdy]

OK, here's an idea. Rather than fabricate a plate and drop down vermiculite, couldn't I just lay several layers of high temp ceramic blanket insulation on top of the stove? The way I see it, the heat going into my house is coming from the air being past through the stove cavity that would be under those layers, so if I insulate the top of it, I'd be keeping it warmer longer.

The only difference I can think of would be that because the surround isn't air tight, there's still a potential for a draft from the room. I think this is pretty minimal though...and probably just about non-existent once I finally get around to properly attaching the flashing plate up on top of the chimney.

Thoughts?