Almost got myself in a pickle today and wanted to hear your thoughts to help improve my skills. Took down a 24" dbh poplar. Was down to about a 30-35 ft stub. Put a tag line in the top and came down about halfway. Was hoping the log would land flat but I think you all know where this is going. The log landed on its end and then fell off to the right. Luckily nothing got damaged since I had some room to play with but I've been pondering how to manage this situation better in the future. So I'm basically asking if you have any techniques or tricks to help the log land flat. I guess it depends on factors such as the length of the log, the height that it is cut, and narrow notch vs wide notch. In this case should I have flipped up on the butt of the log as it came off so it flips completely over and lands flat (tip lands close to base of free) or push down on butt as it comes off. Or should I have taken the time and taken smaller pieces. Not sure if this makes sense. I guess it is kind of a vague question and varies from one situation to the next. Thanks for your time.
Flipping stubs
- Thread starter mdtreeman
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
If you can't afford to hit targets within range, do not take pieces that you cannot control...or even pieces that you can only control 90% of the time. Sounds like tree where in a different situation where you should have roped down a few manageable chunks then wait until you are on the ground to drop the remainder of the log.....but since you had room to play with, dropping a big chunk wasn't a problem - so drop a big chunk.
I think it takes some experience and practice to gauge whether the log will flip or land flat. It will depend on the size of the log and how high you are. I think in general, you want to make a narrow notch so it breaks the hinge sooner. A wide notch will hold the log longer until it is pointed downward. You will have less chance to manipulate it.
When it is safe to do so, practice different methods to see what happens.
If you're unsure, either butt hitch it or take smaller pieces.
When it is safe to do so, practice different methods to see what happens.
If you're unsure, either butt hitch it or take smaller pieces.
When I started, I used to pull larger pieces, but over time I found it was easier and faster to snap cut and push 3 to 4' pieces into a bird's nest than rig, notch and pull one big piece.
On a side note, the timing and strength of the pull on your rope has a lot to do with how it lands, too. Most groundies have a poor sense of timing, and usually over pull.
On a side note, the timing and strength of the pull on your rope has a lot to do with how it lands, too. Most groundies have a poor sense of timing, and usually over pull.
I agree,,so much faster and easier to drop to where you can still have a hand on the top of the piece,usually under 3 feet long,
I don't climb production anymore, but when I did, in your scenario, I would of set up a type of speed-line to the base of the tree,
butt tie and ride down secured,
Jeff
Sorry Acer, 9 comma's,,,,
13
IMac
ArboristSite Lurker
If the tree is relatively straight, don't tie it at the top. Try putting your rope about halfway. That way the tip won't have as much momentum from groundies pulling on it. A narrow notch helps too. Make sure to cut the bark on both sides of the notch too so that the log is completely free when the hinge breaks.
You can also make a steeper notch. Instead of a horizontal and an angle, make two angled, both in a humbolt fashion. Your back cut should follow the lowest of you angled cuts. It's kind of like a hybrid humbolt/salami cut. It still allows the piece to tip out before the hinge breaks but also lets it slide off, instead of flipping.
Sorry if I can't explain it better and I'm not computer savy enough to draw it out.
Sorry if I can't explain it better and I'm not computer savy enough to draw it out.
Just cut it at the bottom. Mine lay flat all the time, never flipped.
Exscept when you do this.Just cut it at the bottom. Mine lay flat all the time, never flipped.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
What's the problem there...he got it to lay flat 
beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
I very the size of my face cut depending on leanth and height. Sometimes a narrow face cut will make it land flat, sometimes a 60 degree face cut will make it do a flip and land flat. Sometimes I'll tell the grounds men to slowly pull it over then right before it closes, then give it a strong pull. If done right it'll do a 360 and land flat. I think a lot of it is intuition. I recently did a big cedar on a slope, and laid each 10 or 12 ft chunk side by side on a small dirt road. All landing flat. It can be done.
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
20% off the top and they will do .75 flips and land flat.. you can vary that with the notch, back cut, and hinge and pulling method, but mostly it has to do with the length of the piece releative to the size of the stick
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I abide by the 1/5th rule. Sometimes I take a bigger piece and flip it a bit as it leaves the notch so it will land flat.
