Flue Cleaning - Gravity Assisted

[Marshy]

From the few threads I read on here, it appears the majority of people use the fiberglass rods on their flue brush to clean. When I bought my flue brush I did not feel it was very practical to buy the 7 - 5' rods that I would require to clean 35' of flue so I decided to use gravity to my advantage.

I bought some nylon rope, some 1/8" cable and one of those splicer things that you crush with a hammer to join two end of the cable together. I drilled a hole in the end of the brush near the treaded end and made a loop with the cable. The other end of the brush already has a loop. I took a (12'?) log chain for a weight and folded it up so its is 3' long. I took zip ties and tied it together so the chain doesnt flail around (3-4 ties spaced out over the 3' length). The chain is attached to one end of the brush and the nylon rope at the other end.

Now I climb up on the roof, lower the chain into the flue, align the brush to the square shape about 2-4 inches above it and drop it in. The weight takes it about 10 feet or so on the first try. After that I dont have to drop it in like that it slides further each time. I have a ~1.5" diameter short stick I wrap the rope around 1 turn and pull up the brush. Once the bristles change directions the wight isnt enough to pull the brush back down so I can re-position the rope/stick and pull until it comes out the top. Ever subsequent pass after the first one gets easier and longer until it falls to the bottom of the chimney. The rope is long enough to have ~10' of extra so it wont fall in.

From the resistence of the brush passing through I can tell the heaviest of buildup is in the first ~6-10' above where the stove ties into the chimeny. The brush usually has the most speed at that point and pounds through it in a few passes. Once I can make it through on a single drop I usually do 1-2 more passes for good measure.

Most of you guy will probably say I am going to break the clay liner but not once have I found any clay on the chain or chips in the clean-out. I inspect the liner with a light once a year and it looks fine with no damage. I dont typically hear any sounds of the chain hitting the liner so I dont believe there is much risk from damage. One could probably duct tape a thick rag on the end of the chain if they wanted to try and minimize and whip from the end if they wanted...
If anyone is using a similar method, I would be interested to hear what you are using for a weight. Feedback is welcome otherwise I wouldnt have shared this in a public forum (i.e. I expect someone is going to tell me my house it liable to burn down from a damages flue and Im and idiot, each to their own).

 

[Marshy]

Nice tool lol

 

[zogger]

Sounds like it works OK!

 

[Marshy]

I just couldnt tolerate futzin around with those rods on the top of a snow covered 7/12 pitch roof for a half hour trying to clean the flue. I had the idea of using a weight after the directions on the box showed two people using rope, one on each side of the brush and thought there had to be an easier way that didnt envolve having the clean-out door open while brushing or the poles...

 

[zogger]

Nice tool lol

Voice mode = "Al" "I don't think so, Tim...."

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

[steved]

The point of the rods is to work from the bottom to the top...you don't even have to get the ladder out.

I would fall off the roof just trying to balance/carry the brush and chain up mine...at least the rods are lighter!

 

[JeffHK454]

Why would you be cleaning the flue with snow on the roof?

I clean the chimney every couple years and never get more than a small coffee cup full crud and can assemble , clean and disassemble the rods in the time it took you to type the original post .

 

[steved]

I clean the chimney every couple years and never get more than a small coffee cup full crud and can assemble , clean and disassemble the rods in the time it took you to type the original post .

I have mine cleaned (they also inspect the stove) or clean it myself every fall...I get a small coffee cup of ash at most. I also burn any and all wood, anything from pine to oak. The only reason I have mine cleaned professionally is to have a piece of paper for the insurance company in the event something happens...it already saved me once.

 

[JeffHK454]

I have mine cleaned (they also inspect the stove) or clean it myself every fall...I get a small coffee cup of ash at most. I also burn any and all wood, anything from pine to oak. The only reason I have mine cleaned professionally is to have a piece of paper for the insurance company in the event something happens...it already saved me once.

That makes sense..I never even thought a pro clean/inspect could help with insurance rates. I'll have to give my guy a call.

 

[steved]

Having documentation that I had the maintenance done (completed my due diligence), made the recovery after my "chimney" fire a whole lot better.

 

[A.S.Woodchucker]

we use an old window weight hooked lose to the brush at my dads house, works great and it is near impossible to clean from below!

 

[zogger]

Having documentation that I had the maintenance done (completed my due diligence), made the recovery after my "chimney" fire a whole lot better.

I don't get it and I note you put it in quotes. How did you have a chimney fire if it stays that clean?

If you would rather not answer online, that's cool.....

 

[steved]

The contractor that replaced my chase cover compromised my chimney...the structure containing the chimney caught fire, but it wasn't a real chimney fire in that swnse.

 

[Marshy]

Why would you be cleaning the flue with snow on the roof?

I clean the chimney every couple years and never get more than a small coffee cup full crud and can assemble , clean and disassemble the rods in the time it took you to type the original post .

Because where I live our burning season starts in September, snow starts in November and they lasts until May. Although I try to burn the most seasoned wood possible, it is not usually seasoned for 12 months or longer. The majority of my wood is C/S/S during spring thaw and burnt during the upcoming fall/winter. Some of it might be C/S/S in the fall and burnt the following winter (12 months) but only a cord or 2 if Im lucky.

I'v only been a home owner for 4 year and my first year in my house I had a chimney fire. I made the mistake of not cleaning the chimney before I started burning. Unfortunatle it was dirty and had a small birds nest in it and caught fire in the first week or so of use. No damage but it was one of those things where I thought I was too busy to clean it. I think I cleaned it every 4-6 weeks that first winter after that. The second winter I was more lax about it because my wood was better quality, and last winter I only cleaned 2 times, once in the early part of the burning season (at about the transition point where the stove would be run continiously 24/7) and again in the spring when I would only need small fires again during the night. With my setup in dead winter its typical for me to load it to the gills before I go to be at night and then again when I wake up. My wife adds wood once or twice during the day too depending how cold it gets. Dead of winter its practically running full tilt and so it helps keep it on the clean side, its during the early and end of the season where the risk for build up is the highest...

 

[JeffHK454]

Because where I live our burning season starts in September, snow starts in November and they lasts until May. Although I try to burn the most seasoned wood possible, it is not usually seasoned for 12 months or longer. The majority of my wood is C/S/S during spring thaw and burnt during the upcoming fall/winter. Some of it might be C/S/S in the fall and burnt the following winter (12 months) but only a cord or 2 if Im lucky.

I'v only been a home owner for 4 year and my first year in my house I had a chimney fire. I made the mistake of not cleaning the chimney before I started burning. Unfortunatle it was dirty and had a small birds nest in it and caught fire in the first week or so of use. No damage but it was one of those things where I thought I was too busy to clean it. I think I cleaned it every 4-6 weeks that first winter after that. The second winter I was more lax about it because my wood was better quality, and last winter I only cleaned 2 times, once in the early part of the burning season (at about the transition point where the stove would be run continiously 24/7) and again in the spring when I would only need small fires again during the night. With my setup in dead winter its typical for me to load it to the gills before I go to be at night and then again when I wake up. My wife adds wood once or twice during the day too depending how cold it gets. Dead of winter its practically running full tilt and so it helps keep it on the clean side, its during the early and end of the season where the risk for build up is the highest...

Yep, I've went through the same learning curves and problems when I moved to my new house and put in a new burner, you can never clean it too much only too little.

 

[Marine5068]

Why would you be cleaning the flue with snow on the roof?

I clean the chimney every couple years and never get more than a small coffee cup full crud and can assemble , clean and disassemble the rods in the time it took you to type the original post .

Ya...I was going to ask why you're up on the roof in Winter too.
I clean my Superflue chimney once in the Fall and I never even get a small coffee cup full of build-up. Sounds like you burn wet/unseasoned wood. Season your wood for at least one year and two for Oak. So if you cut it in May, then don't burn that stuff next Winter, but the year after.
I guess your method works, but carrying the heavy chain up a ladder doesn't sound fun. I use light, fibreglass rods and it's easy as pie. I just assemble them on the ground then lay it up against the eaves and grab the assembled length with brush already attached when I get up on the roof.
You also need to make sure that you're fire is hot enough to burn best. This means that you need to tend it when you get it up and running. It takes time to get it going and get the heat set right with flue and/or damper.
I have my flue set perfect and only use my wood stove's damper to allow more air in at the start-up and then when it's going, I turn down the damper to get a longer burn time.
Also install a flue temperature gauge. They make a huge difference in taking the guesswork out of burning safely and efficiently.

 

[stihly dan]

Why the hell would one clean from bottom up? all the crap will fall on you, and you breathe the crap in. From the roof as you brush the crap falls down. And what about the cap? how do you inspect that? If you have one. Admittedly if you do not have a ladder to get up there, or have a real steep roof, or the chimney is 6 ft plus above the roof. Then I can see bottom up. one has to do what the conditions or circumstances call for. But given the choice top down is better.

 

[steved]

If you have very little schmegma in the hole, you shouldn't have much falling on you? I mean, based on all the other threads, we should be burning pristine wood under pristine conditions...the flue should be clean before we start... that's the canned answer on this site most times.

I simply had the shop vac pulling while I brushed mine...got more dirt on me from pulling the fire brick out than I did from sweeping. Its not like you have your head in the stove while your doing the deal. And I can inspect the cap from the ground...that's what binoculars are for.

I have a 12/12 pitch, my chimney is nearly 40 feet in the air, and its over five feet above the roofline...its not a pleasant feeling being up there (and no, I'm not afraid of heights). Bottom up for most of the cleanings is better than top down for all of the cleanings in my case...reduces the risk.