Flywheel Removal with Threaded Puller versus "Hitting" the Crankshaft End

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I guess I’ve gotten lucky. In the past I have always just smacked the other end of the crank with a ball peen hammer and the flywheel would just pop off. Done this with a bunch of saws and never had a problem. I didn’t think it was a big deal really, I never had to pound on them very hard.

Now I know better, and I own a couple of Stihl flywheel pullers.
 
I guess I’ve gotten lucky. In the past I have always just smacked the other end of the crank with a ball peen hammer and the flywheel would just pop off. Done this with a bunch of saws and never had a problem. I didn’t think it was a big deal really, I never had to pound on them very hard.

Now I know better, and I own a couple of Stihl flywheel pullers.
So you hit it on the clutch side? Funny I never thought to do it this way as I was taught to hit from the flywheel side. I guess I aught to try that sometime
 
LOL, several years back, I showed up at my local Stihl dealer with the LH-threaded carb limiter removal tool, and he was like "Where did you get THAT?" and I said, "I ordered it through you about 2 years ago!"
Yep! That's hilarious. Small engine repair shops, even the licensed dealers are not allowed to even sell the adjustment tool for the newer carbs. I purchased a bunch of them a few years back on eBay or maybe it was Amazon
They were real cheap too.

I believe it was Steve's Small Engine Saloon on YouTube did a video about this
 
So you hit it on the clutch side? Funny I never thought to do it this way as I was taught to hit from the flywheel side. I guess I aught to try that sometime

Yeah I’d just hold the saw up with one hand and give the crank a tap on the clutch side. As long as the flywheel wasn’t lined up with the coil, it usually just falls off

Probably the worst way to do it, the shock travels through everything I would imagine.
 
I have damaged two saws with the hammer method. Center punch is the way to go.

The threads on the end of the shaft are slightly bent out of shape and the bolt won't thread back on without stripping. Looking for a cheap fix - I haven't got a tap & die set, and I imagine with it being lht it would require a special tool to repair those threads
Thread file and some patience.
 
I have to wonder why other mfgs didn't adopt the captured flywheel nut that Mall used. Didn't Stihl use it for the clutch cover nuts?
Most consumers will never remove a flywheel, as opposed to needing to remove the bar and chain to replace one or the other a few times a year
 
I just leave the nut on the end and then I strike it lightly with a deadblow hammer or some such. I haven't run into a "frozen" one yet, tho I've only done a handful. Effortlessly. Eventually I might run into a stubborn one that'll require a different approach...

I'm not sure why anyone would actually strike the end of the crank without a nut on it...
 
Nothing wrong with hitting the crank, they'll take your money for a specific tool for anything you could think of... I've taken hundreds off with a hammer, never had an issue and never lost a crank on dozens of saws being ran commercially...
 
I just recently utilized a Stihl puller for a very stubborn 266. With a little help from a piece of scrap iron, couple machine screws, and a drill press, I had a Husqvarna puller! I took the starting paws out and inserted the screws then put moderate pressure on the shaft with the puller bolt. Didn't get to carried away cause I didn't want to strip out the small screws. Then I just held the puller to suspend the saw off my bench a smidge and then gave the puller bolt some wacks with the hammer. This way I can't damage the shaft. Scares me to hit a crank anymore, I made that mistake in the past...
 

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