Footlocking and Throwline Tech.

[Hack Jr]

For me, I distrust mechanical devices, and prefer a knot(hitch) and rope system.

As far as footlocking goes, I'd like to know more about the Kleimblaketaut hitch, as well as what my brain should have my muscles focuse on during the process. I understand that it may be more of a natural reaction once it is understood, but right now, my forearms hold my weight while my legs footlock to ascend; and so, my strong forearms bear the bront.

??Should I try to jump into a footlock, thus eliminate weight on my arms?
??What should my brain be going through to tell my muscles to attempt such an act?

 

[Climb020]

Personally use the kong, knots are too slow and a PITA for footlocking IMO. But when doing it my mind isn't on my muscles but my feet. Got to make sure my rope stay in place on my leg inbetween locks. AS well you arms should get tired some but your legs do most of the work. After pulling up and taking the lock, all you need your arms for is to advance your knot. Don't try pulling yourself up after taking the lock, but stand up with a short burst of energy to ascend then taking up your next lock.

As far as throwline techs goes, from what I have learned, 2 handed is more accurate but does not have the distance 1 handing does. I use the 1 hand and don't seem to have much problems with it. With 1 hand you can create a bigger arch of travel for your ball to create greater momentum to launch the line. With 2 hands you are limited more to how long line needs to be being it need to swing inbetween your legs. Make sence?

 

[Tree Machine]

:notrolls2:

Climb- the Kong to me is an ultra duty biner

The Kong is a dual handled, dual ascender. What Climb is saying is you don't have to go through the agony and learning curve and overall inefficiency of ascending on a friction hitch when you can slap on a world-class ascender and just get after it.

Practicing ascending on a Kleimblaketaut hitch, great. There's quite a bit to know in practicing the technique properly, but it's a 2:1 system and is inherently slow. You can be really fast, but you'll still work really hard to be really slow.

Slap on an ascender, back it up and GO. You are now able to advanace the ascender, let your full weight rest on the ascender, footlock, push your body upward, push the ascender as far as you can, repeat. It's so easy.

I watch the noobs fighting with these 2:1 hitch ascent systems, it causes me pain. It just isn't as hard as you're making it. If you're locked in a 'distrust of mechanical devices' and prefer friction systems that wear quickly, can melt, are tied and lock down when you put your weight on them and advance 6 inches for every foot you pull through, enjoy those methods.

Being open minded to modern and professional methods of ascent is really the best start for any noob, regardless of your chosen gear or technique.

 

[Hack Jr]

Im enlightened! Any reason to use a Kleimblaketaut hitch ovah The KONG?

 

[Tree Machine]

Demos for boy scout groups? Descent down. That's all I can think of.

 

[MrRecurve]

How do you guys back up your kong? Just with a prussick above it, or do you attach the kong to your harness?

 

[OTG BOSTON]

cut the S

Im enlightened! Any reason to use a Kleimblaketaut hitch ovah The KONG?

You can't be serious JR, Typical punk with a keyboard. Keep it up and I'll come over the river to Slummahville and snap a footlock off the side of yo face.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Kong to harness with friction hitch over it; to harness. All safetys to harness; Pantin/ cammed foot pedal is easier than footlocking, and can help set lines with it; and using leg power to do so.

Of course then you have to brace against something to push down towards groundies to help tighten rig line. If you reach over to line coming up from load and use it as equal and opposite of your leg push (+ bodyweight), you now get 2 leg lifts on rig line at once't to help pretighten, or do short lifts. If load can move/bend; you can reach out farther than hitchpoint of rig line on it; to give 1 of the leg lift forces (the one in hands) more leverage (if load is still connected to tree, connection forming the pivot of your leverage).

Pantin is a device to apply force, not a safety; so it isn't a part of fail safe/ safety 2 count; no connection to saddle.

 

[pyro_forester]

??Should I try to jump into a footlock, thus eliminate weight on my arms?
??What should my brain be going through to tell my muscles to attempt such an act?

Ok, here's my $0.02, as an inexperienced climber who has the knack of footlocking.
I'll assume you know the basic idea of footlocking and focus on the technique.
When you put your "on top" foot on top, stick it between the standing line, and your leg, that way the rope helps hold your feet together.
Start your footlock as high as you can. I start by leaning almost horizontal in the saddle, with my feet about even with my head.
When you've got your lock, don't immediately straighten your legs. Instead, curl your legs under you, so you're basically sitting on your feet then stand up on your line, that way you don't use your arms as much.
And that's about all the "tricks" there are to it. Good luck figuring out the nuances and stuff, it's gobs of fun once you get the muscles. As always, climb safe.

~The Pyro

 

[Climb020]

When double roping I will use 2 different lines and no knots so that way each line backs the other one up and no need for the added friction of a knot. Faster to be is always better as long as it is just as safe. If going SRT i my friction hitch above the kong with a pulley and put a strap from biner to saddle on outside of my adjustable tether of my ascender. Go to Wesspur and get the ascender. It's $112 I believe. If you prefer Sherrill get the info from Wesspur and they will beat others prices by 10%.

 

[Climb020]

I start by leaning almost horizontal in the saddle, with my feet about even with my head.

You should keep your body in a verticle position the whole time. Beginners mistake is to make a swinging motion with your body to get your feet as high as possible. FL should be a very fluid motion with no swinging about.

There was on article on the fundementals of FL in the TCIA magazine a couple of months ago. Good read if you are able to get your hands on it.

 

[Climbah in Mass]

Kleimblaketaut hitch

Is this the same Knothitch bend, used in decending Extra large Mugo pines? Or is this a particular knot that I have yet to discover. If so could anyone explain how to tie it properly and if it is used when locking the tail, double rope or SRT. I have heard of the Kleim heist blakes and taughtline hitches but never the hybrid Kleimblaketaut hitch. Must be an inner city splice hey.:deadhorse: Get to work JR

 

[OTG BOSTON]

I think I know this kid...........

Is this the same Knothitch bend, used in decending Extra large Mugo pines? Or is this a particular knot that I have yet to discover. If so could anyone explain how to tie it properly and if it is used when locking the tail, double rope or SRT. I have heard of the Kleim heist blakes and taughtline hitches but never the hybrid Kleimblaketaut hitch. Must be an inner city splice hey.:deadhorse: Get to work JR

If he's who I think he is, he comes from a long line of great treeclimbers. I know his old man was a phenomonal climber in his day, same for the grandfather (so I've heard). Either he made this hitch up or the apple fell far from the tree ........................................and rolled even further away.

 

[Climb020]

At the comp I attended probably 90% of the guys there had these ascenders. I use mine on every tree, everyday. The only reason I keep a prussik rope for footlocking is for comps. The rest of the year it sits in a bag. With an ascender you can take a break when needed or to take a look around at what has to be done as you climb. If you try to stop with a prussik, it locks up on the rope. Plain and simple it is just faster on every level. In the time it would take you to tie the knot I can be 20+' up the tree.
Will make vid. if necessary to demonstrate what you do not understand.

And when it comes to rope, static line is a must for ascent. Save as much energy for working as possible. Climbing lines have too much bounce and a lot of energy is wasted this way. Set your ascent line and then have you climbing line waiting for you at the top. I usually have my climbing line, saw,and friction saver waiting for me at the top. And still keep the ascent line in for an aerial rescue if needed or for other climbers.

 

[elmnut]

For me, I distrust mechanical devices.

Ropes are manufactured using mechanical devices, I don't trust you.

 

[(WLL)]

hmmm

For me, I distrust mechanical devices, and prefer a knot(hitch) and rope system.

u must drive a Saturn:hmm3grin2orange: i prefer a knot but i do trust cmi petzl ics and other similar mechanical devices but they should be backed up with a knot and always inspected before each use i like 2 use a custom length hank of tenex with 1 long splice 4 a klemheist knot and 1 eye splice 4 attaching 2 my saddle. works great is very cheep and streamline it is also easy 2 make. tenex rules

 

[Climb020]

u must drive a Saturn:hmm3grin2orange: i prefer a knot but i do trust cmi petzl ics and other similar mechanical devices but they should be backed up with a knot and always inspected before each use i like 2 use a custom length hank of tenex with 1 long splice 4 a klemheist knot and 1 eye splice 4 attaching 2 my saddle. works great is very cheep and streamline it is also easy 2 make. tenex rules

Doesn't matter if you back up an ascender with a knot or another ascender. I like backing mine up in a way that requires no extra gear. Why buy/make a rope for a knot or another ascender to back it up. Very simple, kong + 2 lines= way too easy (evan a caveman could do it).