For those with mills-Spikes On or Spikes Off

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MikeInParadise

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Currently I have the MS660 in an Alaskan mill and that is the main reason for having the MS660. It will spent most of its time in the mill. It seems like the head weighs so much and is not really supported well against the mill with the spikes on.

I am wondering if this is going to stress the bar and if it would be better to remove the spikes and butt the mill right up against the face of the saw.

What do you guys that have mills do?

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I always took the spikes off of the 3120, just to get that couple more inches of cutting width. It also made tensioning the chain easier while mounted in the mill, one less thing to get in the way.
 
definitely spikes off wheather one needs the extra bar length or not. the power head wil be closer to the jig w/ less leverage and wil exert less bend in the bar, esp on bar 36" or longer. i have found that a tarp strap doubled from the saw handle to/around the upright of the jig wil give the head some support. this keeps the bar from bowing up in the middle and leaving a crown in the board. adjust strap tension accordingly to remove bar bow. now if one wants a crowned board (maybe to let your spilled beer run off) you can leave the strap off. is that clear as mud?

good day 1953greg
 
Newfie said:
I always took the spikes off of the 3120, just to get that couple more inches of cutting width.

I always took the dogs off. Extra length is always good!:D
 
I've got a 36" mill, and got a 42" bar so as to get the most out of my mill. Even with taking the dogs off, I couldn't get full width out of my mill with a 36" bar. Yeah, the tiedown strap is a good idea. I was thinking about a cable & turnbuckle setup for mine. Make it look a little less redneck.
 
I have a logosol.... but I take the dogs off my 066's and put them on my firewood saws... ( modifications often required )
 
tek9tim said:
I've got a 36" mill, and got a 42" bar so as to get the most out of my mill. Even with taking the dogs off, I couldn't get full width out of my mill with a 36" bar. Yeah, the tiedown strap is a good idea. I was thinking about a cable & turnbuckle setup for mine. Make it look a little less redneck.

hey tim,
btdt. wont stay set. i quit trying to impress people a long time ago.
its ok to b red, green, or even blue. just geter dunn.

mike, good looking setup. i cant tell if the muffler has been modded but if it hasnt that is a must for milling. a saw wont last long milling if it cant breathe easily. use at least 40:1 mix (i use 32-35:1), highest octane pump gas (runs cooler), slightly richer carb setting (also cooler), clean filter often (the finer dust wil plug filter easier), keep chain sharp, and have fun. if u r milling alone hook 5 or 6 tarp straps end to end then attach one end of straps to the off end of jig and the other n front of the saw to help pull the off end forward. adjust strap tension as saw progresses. leave bout 1/4" gap between powerhead and jig after removing spikes. if its 80*+ i use an air hose to blow dust off saw and to cool it off after letting it fast idle 30 sec b 4 shutdown. also, dont dont dont run it out of gas under load. btdt all too.

i guess all that is more than u asked for but your saw looks pretty new.

good day 1953greg
 
Last edited:
spikes

Hello, I read this often but don't post much. I left my spikes on as they help to hold the saw in place when milling. I built a bandsaw type mill with the carriage running down 25 feet of track but use a chaninsaw in the carriage.
I would like to rig up a turnbuckle system or something like it but that seems like just one more thing to fiddle with. Do any of you have a suggestion for a real easy , slip on and off brace for the saw? I use a Husky 295.

Bill
 
I leave mine on, but the saw isn't dedicated to milling. I may go through a few buck/mill rotations in a day. In a month or so that will change, and I will have a dedicated mill saw, so the 066 will be "free to wander about the cabin."

Mark
 

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