Hi everyone. There seems to be a lot of different opinions on gasket material. While I know OEM gaskets of any kind are the best choice, what is the best high temp, fuel resistant gasket sealer out there? Thanks in advance!
Gasket Material
- Thread starter JonM623
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Hylomar.
You'l get gasket material from your auto(mobile) or general hardware store designd for any motor relevant use. Is it better than OEM - no. - is OEM better - no not likely at all.
I want to use this gasket material designed for a ford 4 cyl. 2 litre engine will it be strong enough for a 50cc 2 stroke chainsaw...
Your FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Part Store) will have all the gasket material you need. Mr. Gasket, Felpro, Victor Reinz are all good stuff. There are different materials and thicknesses, which you use depends on the specific use. A pen, chunk of cardboard, and razor knife, and you can make just about any gasket you need (exhaust is different, there's often metal to cut through). As already mentioned, Hylomar Blue is good sealant for most things. Permatex has a non-hardening one, too - same only different.
There's also the Threebond stuff (rebranded as Yamabond, Hondabond, motorcyclebrandBond), which is a gasketless ("liquid gasket") sealant, and which also has its fans. Beware if the design assumes a gasket thickness, though.
I usually coat exhaust gaskets with Permatex Copper Plus. When it get hot and you later check the gasket it appears as though it's melted copper.
I sometimes even put a thin layer of CU plus over exhaust gaskets tha tare of the metal abestos type.
I usually make exhaust gaskets out of a gasket material I buy at Napa that has the wire inside. (do not remember the part number but it by fel-pro and can be had in large sheets if you need big gaskets) I usually cut the gasket material with tin snips at first then use Hole punches that I've made from chisels and pipe that has the end sharpened and use Solid dry oak boards as a backing. When the boards get chewed up from making gaskets I just run them through my planer to get a good backing surface again.
Coating the gasket surface with Copper Plus will quite often allow the exhaust gaskets to ne re-used, just lightly coat them again when re-installing and snug up the manifold bolts again after the mainifold has heated and cooled.
I sometimes even put a thin layer of CU plus over exhaust gaskets tha tare of the metal abestos type.
I usually make exhaust gaskets out of a gasket material I buy at Napa that has the wire inside. (do not remember the part number but it by fel-pro and can be had in large sheets if you need big gaskets) I usually cut the gasket material with tin snips at first then use Hole punches that I've made from chisels and pipe that has the end sharpened and use Solid dry oak boards as a backing. When the boards get chewed up from making gaskets I just run them through my planer to get a good backing surface again.
Coating the gasket surface with Copper Plus will quite often allow the exhaust gaskets to ne re-used, just lightly coat them again when re-installing and snug up the manifold bolts again after the mainifold has heated and cooled.
You’re probably thinking of Felpro Fel-Ramic 3009 sheets from Advanced or O'Reillys auto parts over in Tulsa, Okrahoma, lol.
Use your Dremel tool w/ a thin cutoff wheel & a burr to “mill/drill“ with.
Poulan 306/245 muffs, they never had an OEM exhaust gasket, but I correct that!
Fiber side goes to the head, or metal side out to the muff.
Use your Dremel tool w/ a thin cutoff wheel & a burr to “mill/drill“ with.
Poulan 306/245 muffs, they never had an OEM exhaust gasket, but I correct that!
Fiber side goes to the head, or metal side out to the muff.
You will find that the gasket material that has the wire re-inforcement imbedded inside is easier to work with if you use hole punches and small chisels if you do not have the gasket making kits that has the assortment of punches and cutters for such. A small straight chisel can be used for making curves and corners and good aviation type wire cutter to make the OD of the gasket. Use a dry flat oak board as backing when doing the stamping for a clean sharp cut. White pine is too soft for backing usually.
The dremel tool with small cutting discs will work in some places but stamping the material is more user friendly. A bur type grinder bit will usually just chew and fuzz up on the materials wires and not cut them good.
Usually the smaller gaskets are not as easily made as compared to the larger ones.
The dremel tool with small cutting discs will work in some places but stamping the material is more user friendly. A bur type grinder bit will usually just chew and fuzz up on the materials wires and not cut them good.
Usually the smaller gaskets are not as easily made as compared to the larger ones.
I have a simple office type hole punch and also one designed for leather that has a rotating head with different sizes. I also have an assortment of spent bullet casings and I set the paper on a block of wood and tap the casing through with a hammer. It’s handy on a larger gasket when the hole punches can’t reach in far enough.
If the original gasket is destroyed and can’t be used as a template you can measure the opening and for round holes you can usually find a socket to trace around.
On flat surfaces you can lay the paper over the surface and tap around on it with the ball end of a hammer and transfer a pattern onto the paper.
Islander23
ArboristSite Lurker
Is it ok using a Gambit AF-202 sheet to make cylinder and carb gaskets?
NAPA.
I think maybe it's fel-pro at Napa.
Do not remember the part number.
Has metal re-inforcement imbedded inside.
Use tin snips to cut.
The sheet at one time came as about 16x16 but now 12x12
Napa might have to order.
I seem to think I seen it at O'Reillys but not sure.
I've even used it as intake gasket material on the old B43.B48 Onan's so as to be re-useable when the manifold was removed.
Do not remember the part number.
Has metal re-inforcement imbedded inside.
Use tin snips to cut.
The sheet at one time came as about 16x16 but now 12x12
Napa might have to order.
I seem to think I seen it at O'Reillys but not sure.
I've even used it as intake gasket material on the old B43.B48 Onan's so as to be re-useable when the manifold was removed.
Grafoil works great for exhaust gaskets as well.
