General Stihl MS 250C questions

[nhmaina]

I just purchased a MS 250C used and I had a few questions for the forum. This is my first post here, so I hope I am in the right place. I haven't figured out the best starting sequence for the saw, it appears in warm weather that i shouldn't use the primer bulb or else it will flood, is that what others have found out? Any hints on the best sequence to start it? Second, the gas cap needs to be pushed down hard before it will close on the way, on youtube, the demonstrations don't show the guy pushing down hard, is this normal? Third, the chain tightener is very hard to rotate vs my 180C which has the same thing. Is this normal for the 250C? Fourth, the guy says it's been used extensively, but the bar is almost totally white still. I have an MS180C and it's bar from occasional use is not as white. I'm wondering if he damaged the saw somehow and had to replace the bar. Finally, I have tried to insert images of the chain that's on it. The bar says its a 0.325 16' 0.063" 62. Which i understand. but the chain has a 2 and a 6 and a yellow link. So I think it's a 26RS362, but it could be a 26RSC62 as well, I think. I'm wondering if i could have help in figuring out which one it it. I really like the chain, it cuts extremely well when compared to my MS180 and 015 (which I understand are lower power). I understand the yellow means it will kickback more than the green so maybe if i can get the green version that would be ok too. Sorry for asking all these questions. Love the saw so far and I think I will figure out the querks eventually.

 

[CR888]

Take a breath, nothing is out of the ordinary, your over thinking unimportant details/problems that probably don't exist. What you really need to do is go cut wood with your saw and get to know it. Your chain looks to be 26RM (semi chisel) or 26RS (full chisel) & yes its yellow chain, green chain which is just as dangerous would have a ramp in front of the depth gauge. The yellow link is the master link where it was joined from a roll of chain. Nothing to worry about there. Use your primer when cold starting, hot starts just put it in the 'run' position and pull the started. The paint on the bar lasts quite a while if the operator keeps a sharp chainchain, oil is good and doesn't push the saw too hard. He may have replaced the bar who knows but its no indication that there is something 'wrong' with your saw. I'm not going to go through all the other questions like chain tensioner etc, as they are not worth answering at this stage. Just go cut wood, keep your chain sharp and make sure oil is spraying off your bar tip. Report back if you have any issues that are based on facts from you use, not 'concerns' discovered in you head. We are here to help but no problems from what you've said, just go use your new saw.

 

[Philbert]

Not sure if you got the Owner's Manual with a used saw. Not trying to be snarky (can be hard to tell in these posts), but there is some good information in there as well.

Other version at:
https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...ls/STIHL-MS-250-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf

Philbert

 

[stihl86]

And you cant flood the engine with the primer. It assists in getting fuel to the carb. It does not dump fuel into the engine.

 

[farmer steve]

I'm guessing you have the toolless chain adjuster . They can get gunked up and be hard to turn. Maybe just a good cleaning.

 

[nhmaina]

Thanks for everyone's feedback. Really really like the saw. I've been brought up with smaller saws (015AV and MS180) so I guess I always thought hardwood should be difficult to cut. The 250 is much easier to cut with, even 4" oak branches are much easier. So I'm happy with it. Here is what I learned, I know that people say you can't flood an engine with a primer bulb, but I appear to have a knack for doing the impossible in that case. The saw starts by going to full choke, pulling once, then to half chock and it starts on the second pull there. Any more gas than that and it floods. The chain adjuster is still hard to rotate, but if I loosen the bar nut more it works better. I know it's not a new saw so I'm sure there are threads on the 250 already, (I have seen many); but I'm still hopeful I can provide some help for others in my position.