Hello everybody, heres a guy with 242XP project on his mind

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ChainFinn

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 18, 2012
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Location
Finland
So,

this is my first post here, and i think it would be nice to start with chainsaw topic, aint it ?

I am not an arborist, sorry, but i do work at the moment for official Husky & Jonsered shop as a mechanic ( just an employee ).

Today i got a new "toy" home, this being a Husqvarna 242 XP. It came in as a trash, something we could use for spare parts, as its previous owner determined it when he bought a new chainsaw. We tend to get museum-old chainsaws ad then these not-so-old chainsaws, some are running, some are basket cases etc, but today i just could not believe that This saw was a junk in his opinion. So, i threw it in my car trunk, its better than a trash can anyways. Just some hour ago, i took it a bit a part and i think this is a small gem, as its suspiciously clean, and not bashed badly at all. I took the muffler out, to see the piston condition and theres not a single scratch, the old spark plug had a nice dry, greyish tone, the air filter was super clean for a "user" that we see everyday, and yet its not cleaned for our eyes. Maybe its owner was a good one who cleaned his saw well, as they are supposed to, or this hasnt been running that much at all, who knows, i dont. It had a good compression of about 153 psi when hot, is i can trust to old measuring device we have :msp_razz:



Anyways, i was thinking of converting this in to "g" model with hand warmers, but the factory spare part / repair book i read, says that the flywheel is a different, in xpG models. I do have several handles with heating elements, plus proper swithces, plus an "arctic" kit, a blue three piece set, for use in winter, when its colder than -15 celsius. So, if the flywheels the problem, i think i could scavenge it from some other junksaw, but then....after all...i do have a 351g and a 154 with warm handles too.


Then i started to look for modification topics through websites and forums, and thats how i found my way here. I think here was a lot of modding topics.


The first queston that i have, is what is the most cost effective way to get a bit more juice out of my tiny xp engine. I am not familiar a lot, with chainsaw mods, but i have played a good amount of time, with motocross & trial bikes and such and i think i am quite handy too. I have tig welder, lathe and a mill to use, and thanks to my work, a pretty good supply of new, as well as used chainsaw parts to use.

- Would it be wise, after regular service ( air filter, gas tank filter, spark plug, carb cleaning and a new gasket & membrane kit ) to start from muffler?

Its pretty restricted to keep volumes down, but i could split it easily, drill maybe some holes, or weld something to make it flow better, never mind the noise. I dont want to go to fitting bike exhaust´s as they pretty much seem to prevent doing actual woodcutting in the forest. I do limb and fell all sorts of woods, but this is small saw, so it will be used on smaller diameter stuff. I am not dreaming of any major increase in torque since this saw buzzes in a high rev quire. But maybe something could be achieved with better exhaust flow, paired with a re-setted carb. Right now, i can tune this to yeld the factory claimed 15.500, but i tuned it down to about 14.300, as its then seems to chew wood better.


-Then, have you tried to fit in a carb with bigger venturi / jet parts from some other, bigger chainsaw......246 migth have bigger carb if i remember it right.



-Porting / piston mods? Is there a possibility to file the piston in a certain way to change durations, and how, anyone tried this and happened to take pictures ?




.....i am very very greatful for any help and tips, people.





If it fails to be potential to be modified, i might have a few...like 20 boxes of chainsaw wrecks, to be used, to assemble one working frankensaw. Sadly in most cases.....yes, cases indeed, the lower ends are worn, broke, bearing jammed etc :msp_mellow:

Theres mostly Huskies and Jonsereds and all off them are older ones, i dont know why they dont bring after-millenium saws for spare part-uses ....or for tinkering :mad:
 
Not answering your main questions, but a heated 154 is a 154SG.

There are lots of info on muffler modding on here, but I am no expert.
 
Yes sir, i do know its SG, and i said that my 154 has hand warmers. Sorry for not being accurate on model names.

Anyhow, heres an attemt to attach pictures:

242xp1.jpg




242xp5.jpg




242xp4.jpg




242xp6.jpg




242xp3.jpg




242xp2.jpg
 
Tomorrow, i am bolting a self modified muffler in to this.

But, today also brought more junk in, i own now a 6 year old Husky 55, that needs piston and cylinder, then one guy gave me a Stihl 024 avs super, that i havent seen before, it has longer stroke that basic 024 but smaller piston than in 026, that seems to have same crankshaft. Yet, the best catch was this few years old Husky 357xpg, that is pretty nasty condition after being used in daily heavy use around the years, exhaust bolt threads are broken, decompression tube was leaking ( but i took the automatic one off, and replaced it with manual ). It has possibly a exhaust mod done, atleast the flange of the muffler has been cut and welded and theres nothing inside the muffler, except for the tubes that guide the bolts....this is my first touch with 357 so i donno if it even has "empty" muffler.

357xpg.jpg


Well, more junk but still....i kind of want to own a BIG engined chainsaw..but they are rare in my country.
 
Last edited:
024 super AVS was total wreck ( needs new crankshaft, bearings, piston and cylinder ), so i am stuck again with 242 and 357 XP-Huskiesc:msp_razz:
 
I had fun with a Husqvarna 238 and that is essentially a small bore earlier version. One thing i can say is that 242 is worth building, they run really well. The only mistake I made in my mind on the 238 was going too large on my outlet on the muffler. It doesn't idle as well as a stock saw would and I think my muffler mod is not helping. Other than that it is a screamer.
 
What diameter was your new outlet pipe then ? I am going for about 14 millimeters, or 16 at max, not any bigger to keep some backpressure.
 
I've got a couple of 242's - one with heated handles.

I haven't modded them but think they're great if you want a lightweight and reliable saw.

I'm looking out for a used 346 at the right (low) price - ideally a fixer-upper - so I can compare them.
 
My 242xp, will ride in my car everyday, especially through winter, as we always tend to get snowstorms etc, and theres always trees fallen on the roads, and i think this small saw, is pretty compact, yet powerful to take apart 14" trunks, to make way clear.
 
Sorry to bud into your post but I have a question

What is the chrome stud forward to the bar stud on the saw. I have a 242 but mine does not have one, rather just a tube end. What am I missing?


Yes sir, i do know its SG, and i said that my 154 has hand warmers. Sorry for not being accurate on model names.

Anyhow, heres an attemt to attach pictures:

242xp1.jpg




242xp5.jpg




242xp4.jpg




242xp6.jpg




242xp3.jpg




242xp2.jpg
 
I've had 3 , 242 Huskies . They are my favorite pre commercial tree thinning saws . . The single best mod u can do to them is a perfect chisel ground chisel bit chain . With a perfect chain they are like a light saber . Able to snip off 15 cm Sitka Spruce without getting pinched . .
I ran 20" 3/8 pitch full comp . 72CL . When bucking firewood I would put 72CJ on . The .325 chain would fly off too eeasily in the impenatrable brush of S.E. Alaska .
You have a great saw there .
 
I have the single stud bar mount. Every thing works fine, so I am not missing anything?

I have 2 supports and 1 threaded stud. The front support also acts as the oil tank vent.

Can you post a pic of the bar mount on yours?
 
I'm not sure but it looks to me like there should be a hollow stud over the front as well. Here's a pic of my 242 bar stud:

attachment.php


and here's your one:

240333d1338720038-photo-jpg
 

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