I have a number of crape myrtles to prune this year. I have done some investigation on the internet on how to prune crapes and I am confused on the proper method. My goal is to have these crapes grow looking like trees versus a bush. I have done very little pruning to these crapes over the years and they seem to have gotten a little too big. I have attached a photo to give you an example of what I am working with. Can someone please guide me on how to prune crape myrtles. Be very specific in your instructions and refer how I would prune the crape in the photo. If there are good sites on the internet, please provide the link to the website. I plan to start pruning this weekend (03/06), so any help is much appreciated.
Help: Pruning Crape Myrtles in Virginia - Correct Technique
- Thread starter pglover19
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D Mc
ArboristSite Operative
Great pictures. You need to determine what cultivar you have so you know what its growth potential is. You are not going to get the classic myrtle tree look if you want to retain the multi-trunk formation that is currently present. That's ok.
This link has some good information and three pictures of pruning techniques. The first one is of thinning cuts to achieve size. The second shows heading cuts to maintain size. You will need to use a combination of both.
Make your cuts at about the depth of the second picture but cut to small laterals so there is a smoother transition on the new growth. This will keep your plants from outgrowing their ability to support themselves by allowing time for girth development of the trunk sections. Your goal here is to reduce the elongation potential while still having enough new growth for blooming.
Keep in mind, this may not be necessary depending on the cultivar. As Tree Co says, they really don't "need" to be pruned. In this case you would be pruning for altering the future affect.
Dave
http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C944/C944.htm
This link has some good information and three pictures of pruning techniques. The first one is of thinning cuts to achieve size. The second shows heading cuts to maintain size. You will need to use a combination of both.
Make your cuts at about the depth of the second picture but cut to small laterals so there is a smoother transition on the new growth. This will keep your plants from outgrowing their ability to support themselves by allowing time for girth development of the trunk sections. Your goal here is to reduce the elongation potential while still having enough new growth for blooming.
Keep in mind, this may not be necessary depending on the cultivar. As Tree Co says, they really don't "need" to be pruned. In this case you would be pruning for altering the future affect.
Dave
http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C944/C944.htm
Do you agree with the pruning statements??
So based on my photos, if I wanted to make the crape grow as a tree can you be specific in what trunk and branches to remove or do you recommend letting it grow as a bush.
Your pictures do not show a central dominant stem. The current form looks fairly well balanced and uncluttered. In my opinion, some light to moderate thinning is all that I would do. Congrats on some good looking trees. At least they haven't been crepe murdered, like most around this part of NC.
D Mc
ArboristSite Operative
Pg, take some time to decide on what you are trying to achieve. When we alter form by pruning, it should be for a specific reason. I would not try to change these into a single trunk variety.
Your myrtles are beautiful the way they are. And do indeed look like small, multi-trunk trees. However, their trunks and limbs are spindly. If you would like them to remain approximately the size they are, it will require some reduction pruning.
What I described in my first post will accomplish that without stimulating excessive regrowth. Working in this manner maintains size consistency while allowing trunks to develop structural strength and character. Severe pruning always produces a flush of growth that becomes a cyclic maintenance issue.
Knowing the size of the cultivar you have will allow you to determine if you are keeping these close to their genetic potential. The less you have to alter their natural growth pattern, the easier this will be to achieve.
Dave
Your myrtles are beautiful the way they are. And do indeed look like small, multi-trunk trees. However, their trunks and limbs are spindly. If you would like them to remain approximately the size they are, it will require some reduction pruning.
What I described in my first post will accomplish that without stimulating excessive regrowth. Working in this manner maintains size consistency while allowing trunks to develop structural strength and character. Severe pruning always produces a flush of growth that becomes a cyclic maintenance issue.
Knowing the size of the cultivar you have will allow you to determine if you are keeping these close to their genetic potential. The less you have to alter their natural growth pattern, the easier this will be to achieve.
Dave
Crapemyrtles will not survive our Zone 4/5. Which I'm sure you know, Guy. So I'm wondering where that comment is going.
Please do remember David's experience includes over 15 years in the Bay Area in California where crapemyrtles were quite common.
Sylvia
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Kate Butler
ArboristSite Guru
I concur that they look really good just the way they are. If you want to take out a few of the less productive stems (less than 20%), do it. If they were mine, I'd leave 'em be.
TreeSeer - I should give you my brother's address. He's probably REAL close to you. He lives in one of the McMansions off Apex Peakway. You can do ALL of his tree care with a pair of hand pruners... while standing on the ground.
Toddppm
Addicted to ArboristSite
How long have you had those Crape Myrtles? If they're more than a few years old that might just be about as big as they're going to get. If they are a smaller variety nothing you do is going to get them to look like a tree form.
5 minutes away from me. Sure, get me his contact, or tell him to call Better Tree Care if he wants oaks planted or other...better tree care.
Sylvia good grief I'm flattered that you consider me omniscient but i did not know the northern range of Lagerstroemia. Careful don't catch the AS Fight Club bug. I try to save harsh reviews for offical pubs, like that UGA thing D linked.
Most sprouts arise from 3-4" below the cut??
If that's informed pruning advice, I will eat my Felcos.
outonalimbts
ArboristSite Operative
I don't know why no one has pointed it out but...
In the first and 3rd pictures, it is clear that these Crepe's have been severely cut back multiple years- I don't agree with the treatment- but for practical reasons I understand the way they have been "pruned".
Shaping a bush to be a tree should be accomplished over the entire life of the shrub- minor cuts here and there, but to try to subordinate it at this point would be a travesty. These pictures show a nice shape- not too over grown, but also not a natural form- weakened branches from being "murdered" time after time, but fairly good quality of murder.
Good luck in converting this bush in to any thing other than a bush.
Left uncut however, at this point- wouldn't be in the Crepe's best interest- though it will continue to grow the limbs have a high degree of breakage potential (they are just watersprouts growing from multiple wound sites).
<:chainsawguy:>
In the first and 3rd pictures, it is clear that these Crepe's have been severely cut back multiple years- I don't agree with the treatment- but for practical reasons I understand the way they have been "pruned".
Shaping a bush to be a tree should be accomplished over the entire life of the shrub- minor cuts here and there, but to try to subordinate it at this point would be a travesty. These pictures show a nice shape- not too over grown, but also not a natural form- weakened branches from being "murdered" time after time, but fairly good quality of murder.
Good luck in converting this bush in to any thing other than a bush.
Left uncut however, at this point- wouldn't be in the Crepe's best interest- though it will continue to grow the limbs have a high degree of breakage potential (they are just watersprouts growing from multiple wound sites).
<:chainsawguy:>
outonalimbts
ArboristSite Operative
This answer isn't exactly true-
The answer is only a partial truth as breakage depends on conditions. Wind/rain events take there toll on trees that are weakened- including the Crepe Myrtle that undergoes Crepe Murder on a regular basis.
Don't blindly accept my input on this, do a search on google or Plantamnesty.com .
Properly subordinated this shrub/tree does just fine, without very much pruning.
However, if the homeowner wants to have the flowers at the same general area yearly then- some could argue that crepe murder is the perfect treatment.
ciao
<:chainsawguy:>
The answer is only a partial truth as breakage depends on conditions. Wind/rain events take there toll on trees that are weakened- including the Crepe Myrtle that undergoes Crepe Murder on a regular basis.
Don't blindly accept my input on this, do a search on google or Plantamnesty.com .
Properly subordinated this shrub/tree does just fine, without very much pruning.
However, if the homeowner wants to have the flowers at the same general area yearly then- some could argue that crepe murder is the perfect treatment.
ciao
<:chainsawguy:>
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