Homelite 1130g still trying to get it cutting... check valve and carb questions...

[sliceoflife]

So late last year I picked up an 1130G that was supposedly pretty close to running.

Wound up damaging the gas tank while trying to clean it... so there is a a slow gas tank leak not enough to be a problem but couple tablespoons will drip out if it sits for a while.
Replacement tank is 200 on ebay so I'm try a few different fixes as I'd rather part the saw out than pay that.

Also gear oil slow leak from the sprocket axle... got the replacement bearing that I expect will fix that... but gonna swap that on when I change out the sprocket to a .404.


So anyway, end of season, I rebuilt the carb, put the saw together and got it running and idling strong. Put it away figuring it would be easy to get going this spring. Finally got around to trying it and it starts easy and runs but maxes out at 4600 or so rpm and bogs down and dies in the cut.

Took carb off again and immediately notice Welch plugs are missing... replaced one (hence the really ugly welch plug)... but I think the other covers up the check valve, does it not... and that also appears to be missing? Dont recall one in the rebuild kit and cant find it looking through the leftover bits either.

Am I correct here? Need to order this check valve part for walbro sdc 1-78 carb I'm assuming?

Also, any clue what this adjustment screw under the choke lever does?

Finally, any recommendations on gas tank repair? I tried steel stik and it held a few months but pulled away from the body of the tank after that. I sanded up the mating surfaces and cleaned them... still didnt hold.

 

[sliceoflife]

Good news: pulled the check valve screen... found the valve... it's just a floating diaphragm... freed it and now it's working, and I think I know the replacement part if I do need to replace it.

Bad news, I have no clue how to extract it if I do... and all the manuals and guides I found links to are offline. So if anyone knows of a guide for changing these check valves, please link it.

Anyhow, cleaned everything up put it back together and should be ready to test once it cools off here...


In the meantime still wondering about the screw near the choke...

And best recommendations for gas tank repairs...
And as mentioned, a guide for check valve replacement that is still online.

Thanks.

 

[cbfarmall]

If this link works, this guy drilled it, very very delicately.

https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/9163/walboro-check-valve-removal-install

Far as the tank, without knowing the damage, JB weld usually works and I've been known to back up the repair with red kote on the inside of the tank.

 

[sliceoflife]

If this link works, this guy drilled it, very very delicately.

https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/9163/walboro-check-valve-removal-install

Far as the tank, without knowing the damage, JB weld usually works and I've been known to back up the repair with red kote on the inside of the tank.

thank you I thought that might be what I need to do. Do the repair and then do a liquid coat inside to protect the repair from the gas

And thank you for the link... I actually found that earlier but thought it was a different valve than mine at the time... now that I've gotten mine disassembled, that is the type I've got so that's just the guide I might need.



Tank damage was basically several of the screws joining top to bottom were stripped and stuck and when I drilled them out, some chunks of the top broke off (corners and edges where it meets bottom) and the redrill/pilot holes in the bottom ran out in a couple spots. (Drilled too close to exterior and drill poked out).

 

[cbfarmall]

Walbro sells a carb tool kit and there are aftermarket sources out there. A mini slide hammer is one of those tools but I don't see how it would work with that check valve. Drilling a carb would make me nervous.

FYI, my buddy had an issue with his SDC leaking fuel, probably due to that check valve. His fix was for me to give him an HL off a C91 which was also the correct carb for the earlier 1130s.

 

[heimannm]

The little notch on the end of the slide hammer shaft will engage the brass retaining ring (that holds the check valve in place) and the slide hammer can then pop it out. On a few occasions I've had trouble getting the shaft through the retainer, but once I get it poked through, it does seem to grip the retainer just fine. I've actually broken off the tip of mine once and had to cut another by chucking the shaft in the lathe and using a Dremel with a cut off disk to cut a new groove.



Mark