Homelite Chainsaws

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redsqwrl

redsqwrl

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Apr 4, 2009
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56
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Yup, I put a 1/16" drill bit into two of them (batch rebuild).

You need an overhaul kit with the 'Main orfice check valve' in it. Little round plastic or rubber disc, a little round screen and a retainer ring. I forget the number.

Here is one: CHECK VALVE REPAIR KIT WALBRO SDC HDC HDB CARBURETORS | eBay

Note: 'They' have seen fit to eliminate the check valve and accelerator pump bits out of your garden variety SDC overhaul kit of late.

fun, I assume that it pushes out of that hole fairly easily? the little silve pc is the new seal.

fun fun,

You know as aside note as easy as that popped out of there I can't believe more of those don't fall out.

Thanks a bunch for confirming my brilliance.

Mike
 
homelitejim

homelitejim

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[video=youtube;pc0qt-vQlzA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc0qt-vQlzA[/video]
I replaced the fuel lines and filter, and cleaned up the carb. The diaphragm was a bit stiff but I have a kit here somewhere.
 
BroncoRN

BroncoRN

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Super 2

Posted this in wrong thread to start, but anyways this Super 2 is killing me. Starts when it wants to. Could only get it to fire today but no real start. Seems to only want to fire with something poured down the carb. Ive cleaned the carb, blown it out, new carb kit, new reed gasket, new carb gasket, new fuel lines, new fuel filter. Seems to have good spark and stout compression. Im running out of stuff to replace. My only other thought to to slap the walbro carb off a parts Super 2 on there and see what happens.

Anyone know starting place on single adjustment carb?
 
Ambull

Ambull

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Posted this in wrong thread to start, but anyways this Super 2 is killing me. Starts when it wants to. Could only get it to fire today but no real start. Seems to only want to fire with something poured down the carb. Ive cleaned the carb, blown it out, new carb kit, new reed gasket, new carb gasket, new fuel lines, new fuel filter. Seems to have good spark and stout compression. Im running out of stuff to replace. My only other thought to to slap the walbro carb off a parts Super 2 on there and see what happens.

Anyone know starting place on single adjustment carb?

Single adjust carbs are easier. Usually 1 1/4 turns out is where I start. Turn the idle screw way up. Then once it is running back off the idle screw until the chain stops moving. Then check throttle response. If it is sluggish, open up the L screw a bit. If you lose idle, raise the idle screw a bit. Once you get a nice snappy throttle response with good idle, you are done. If you start seeing an abundance of smoke when throttling up, you are too rich on the L screw.
 
a. palmer jr.
Joined
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Yesterday I picked up a fairly nice Homelite 700XL but haven't had time to look at it much. I'm suspecting it doesn't have any spark but the rest of it looks in great condition. It was covered in a bit of an oily sawdust coating so I'm sure the paint will be in good shape. I may check the spark tomorrow but it's probably just corroded points.
 
jerrycmorrow

jerrycmorrow

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Posted this in wrong thread to start, but anyways this Super 2 is killing me. Starts when it wants to. Could only get it to fire today but no real start. Seems to only want to fire with something poured down the carb. Ive cleaned the carb, blown it out, new carb kit, new reed gasket, new carb gasket, new fuel lines, new fuel filter. Seems to have good spark and stout compression. Im running out of stuff to replace. My only other thought to to slap the walbro carb off a parts Super 2 on there and see what happens.

Anyone know starting place on single adjustment carb?

you say new fuel lines. could they be kinked? just had that headache with one of my little saws. really gave me a run for my money until i eliminated everything else. btw, it also needed a different carb; i had already put a kit on the one on it but the carb still wouldn't do anything more than pop. got to take it apart again and see what i did wrong. suspect the metering lever.
 
Eccentric

Eccentric

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Yesterday I picked up a fairly nice Homelite 700XL but haven't had time to look at it much. I'm suspecting it doesn't have any spark but the rest of it looks in great condition. It was covered in a bit of an oily sawdust coating so I'm sure the paint will be in good shape. I may check the spark tomorrow but it's probably just corroded points.

I hope you have the points ignition. Some of the early XL700/800 series saws had a goofy 'transistorized' ignition that was about as reliable as a candle in a windstorm. I believe the service manual instructs us to replace those ignitions with some other type from the series. I can't remember which one though. I'll dig into the SM when I have some time....
 
a. palmer jr.
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I hope you have the points ignition. Some of the early XL700/800 series saws had a goofy 'transistorized' ignition that was about as reliable as a candle in a windstorm. I believe the service manual instructs us to replace those ignitions with some other type from the series. I can't remember which one though. I'll dig into the SM when I have some time....

Well, Jerry, as it turns out the saw has spark, so that's not the problem. The problem is, no compression, or very little compression to be exact. So it looks like this one isn't gonna be fixed in a while. Other duties call. I always have my old reliable VI944 to use if I need a thrill.
 
dieselsmoke

dieselsmoke

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I know these Homelites from the mid 80s were not built the best, but should the crankshaft tolerances have a lot of play?:eek2:
NO radial play, If you can detect any crank movement up and down when the saw is placed firmly on your bench, it's got problems. From air leaks to the flywheel rubbing on the coil, It's all bad, and it only gets worse as you run it.
 
ChainLightning

ChainLightning

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NO radial play, If you can detect any crank movement up and down when the saw is placed firmly on your bench, it's got problems. From air leaks to the flywheel rubbing on the coil, It's all bad, and it only gets worse as you run it.

Well I am in the process of tearing it down to clean it and replace that intake boot. You think it would even be worth it to put 12 bucks in it? I know them 330s are the worst to tear down.
 
ChainLightning

ChainLightning

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Here's one I picked at the local auto swap meet. It's an old video, the saw is now painted and sits on a shelf, for display only.

Homelite EZ 6 in wood - YouTube[video=youtube;A1Pq1TUjHVA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1Pq1TUjHVA[/video]

That is beautiful. The guy who sharpens my chains and saw blades had one of them in blue. Ran perfect. Too bad he wouldn't sell it to me. No saw looks cooler and more dangerous than a EZ-6!
 
dieselsmoke

dieselsmoke

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Well I am in the process of tearing it down to clean it and replace that intake boot. You think it would even be worth it to put 12 bucks in it? I know them 330s are the worst to tear down.
Get it running and try it out for a tank or two. It never hurts to have a throw away saw on hand for the neighbor who likes to borrow stuff. ;)
 
BroncoRN

BroncoRN

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FINALLY got the Super 2 running. Swapped in a Walbro HDA carb from another Super 2 and she fired right up. Took that carb apart to check it out and it had run with a carb half full of saw dust. Cleaned it out and started saw again and gas went everywhere but still a good sign. Put a new carb kit in and it runs like a million bucks! I love a dual adjustment carb.
 
ChainLightning

ChainLightning

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Get it running and try it out for a tank or two. It never hurts to have a throw away saw on hand for the neighbor who likes to borrow stuff. ;)

I think I will. Most of the paint is off from it (which most Homelite's from the 70s and 80s dont have much original paint left on em) The thing I am worried about is it has a lot of crankshaft end play. Moves from side to side, but not back and forth. Also the handle broke in half so I duct-taped it back together. :cool2: What would you say on that end play? I hear a lot of the Homelite's from the 80s were bad about that
 
dieselsmoke

dieselsmoke

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I think I will. Most of the paint is off from it (which most Homelite's from the 70s and 80s dont have much original paint left on em) The thing I am worried about is it has a lot of crankshaft end play. Moves from side to side, but not back and forth. Also the handle broke in half so I duct-taped it back together. :cool2: What would you say on that end play? I hear a lot of the Homelite's from the 80s were bad about that

Im not sure how much is too much on end play. My neighbor has a 330 I tuned up for him a couple of years ago. I can look at his maybe this weekend.
 
Eccentric

Eccentric

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That is beautiful. The guy who sharpens my chains and saw blades had one of them in blue. Ran perfect. Too bad he wouldn't sell it to me. No saw looks cooler and more dangerous than a EZ-6!

If it's blue, then his saw is a Zip. Same basic saw as an EZ-6. Different starter. Single reed. 4.7ci instead of 5ci. Made a few years later than the EZ-6 (which had been replaced by the 600D). Homelite Zips are easy to find if you want one...:D
 
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