Homelite Chainsaws

[cbfarmall]

Yikes! Chris
One for each hand.....

Have to mod them with a top handle so you can use them that way...
You da man.....

You know anybody who can use these saws as a top-handle and they can have them!!

Those original mufflers are nice, and really set these models apart from their younger brothers.

I went to some lengths to get the right mufflers for these (I also have a 9-23 in the shed). Also, lucked out finding the red heat shields that seem to disappear. All the 9-26 needs to be right (other than the starter cover) is the straight full-wrap instead of the bent type.

Chris B.

 

[Nitroman]

Very, very nice.

 

[briantutt]

Enough talk of these little saws, here's some of my biguns. I picked up a good chain grinder recently and now I can finally touch-up those rocked-out big pitch chains that came with otherwise great saws.

This is a 9-26 sporting 1/2" full chisel and a 32" bar. Got the saw from a member here and just got her running today. The bar/chain came off, of all things, a Super 1020XP Auto. The rails on that bar were crooked and forcing the chain to cut in circles. Put it my combo disc/belt sander and squared it right up. Square-ground this chain with my old SDM4. Not surprisingly, seemed to cut the fastest of the pair.

My old 900G is carrying 9/16" full chisel, 36" bar and an 8-tooth gear (I don't think this is particularly common.) I kept this chain in retirement till I could finally get it to a round grinder. Funny thing, I always recalled this chain being a link too long when I originally got it. So, before I ground it, I shortened the chain up. When I tried to install it, I could not get the loop to fit at all. I tried a 7-tooth gear with no success. So, wondering what crack I was smoking when I first got the saw, I put the link back in and pretended the whole thing ever happened.

Had a hard time getting the camera to focus, probably because of the failing light. Now, I just wish I could really work these saws out.

Chris B.

Those mufflers (or visaed thereof) are mean looking. Do they actually do anything (I swear I can see a ring right through the exhaust)

I think Homie was addicted to the "Christmas theme" back then.

 

[cbfarmall]

Those mufflers (or visaed thereof) are mean looking. Do they actually do anything (I swear I can see a ring right through the exhaust)

I think Homie was addicted to the "Christmas theme" back then.

No, you're not seeing a piston or even the cylinder exhaust port. If you were to pull the front cover off, you would see the path from the cylinder serpentines a bit. I'll post a picture my next day off.

Picked this up off Ebay today. I may lose my shirt over it, but I don't think so. I've wanted a 770G for a long time and this looks to be nice. Just missing a couple minor parts. The bar is worth a few bucks, too.

Chris B.

 

[steven1955]

SLXA Expert Needed

Hi again. In last week's episode I showed a few pics of an SLXA given to me by a friend. Now I need some help from someone who knows the SXLAs.

1. Can someone decode my serial number. The Homelite decoder page I found here didn't work for me. Suffix: AO, Serial Number: 03326520

2. How's this piston look? It looked not perfect but OK for me with a few very small scratches, and no apparent (to my novice eyes) burning of the piston.

3. How do I remove the clutch plate? The clutch drum with sprocket came right off. Special tool? Is it threaded on? (An arrow painted on the clutch plate suggests a left hand thread.)

4. How much fuel line is in the tank? The fuel line is completely disintegrated.

5. Is there anything special about the fuel line? It's bigger than on other two stroke engines I've worked on. And the tank uses no grommets.

6. Fuel tank: It's full of some brown sludge. Maybe its a tank sealer and supposed to be there. Maybe it's what's left of the fuel line. But a lot of it must go. The fuel filter was glued to the bottom of the tank and a real pain to get out. (The tank doesn't leak judging by the nasty brown 10ish year old gas mix that was still in the tank. I'd really like to avoid taking the tank apart.)

7. Oil pump hose kit: I've heard that some Homeite saws need the oiler hoses replaced. Does this apply to my SLXA? The IPL I've found doesn't seem to have rubber hoses.

8. Are rebuild kits for the Walbro SDC-8 still available?

That's it for now. There are other things I should be working on but I'm starting on this saw now anyway.

 

[Walt41]

I've got a Homelite Zip with no zap, are condensers etc still available for these old buzzards or do I have another dud?

 

[lawnmowertech37]

For those who looking for Homelite ignition coil electronic ignition for the XL12 SXLAO here you go

http://www.cmsmallengines.net/homelite-coil-part-94605-fits-xl-12-sxlao.html

 

[Hagstar]

Hi again. In last week's episode I showed a few pics of an SLXA given to me by a friend. Now I need some help from someone who knows the SXLAs.

Posts like this almost never get answered in my observation. Your questions are so numerous no one knows where to start. And few of them are specific to your saw- what you need simply is a complete education in old saw repair.

I'll take a quick stab at it though- your piston looks usable to me. The brown gunk in the tank is not supposed to be there. Yes, gas filters can be nightmarish to get out. Yes you may have to split the tank to do it. Yes, fitting the gas line is complex sometimes, you must find tubing that fits tightly or sleeve it somehow or better yet find a new molded line specific for the XL12 on eBay or somewhere.

Most of these things have no trick involved, just head scratching, web searching, "does anyone have one of these?" web posting, and LOTS and LOTS of reading. To start hit Search on this page and enter "SX12".

Good luck,
John H.

 

[steven1955]

Hi John,

Thanks for your thoughts.

Posts like this almost never get answered in my observation. Your questions are so numerous no one knows where to start. And few of them are specific to your saw- what you need simply is a complete education in old saw repair.

I think you're right about my post. I'm new to this site and don't know what works well here. Post like these work OK on some motorcycle forums I've been on.

The brown gunk in the tank is not supposed to be there.

It looks like someone went overboard on tank sealer. I tried both fresh straight gas and MEK, neither of which removed the gunk. I guess for now it's staying. If there's any sign in the future that it's dissolving into the gas I'll remove the tank, clean it, and reseal it.

Yes, fitting the gas line is complex sometimes, you must find tubing that fits tightly or sleeve it somehow or better yet find a new molded line specific for the XL12 on eBay or somewhere.

Now I know that there is a custom molded line, so I'm shopping for one.

Most of these things have no trick involved, just head scratching, web searching, "does anyone have one of these?" web posting, and LOTS and LOTS of reading. To start hit Search on this page and enter "SX12".

Before my posts I did hours of searching. Several hours more and some of my questions are answered. I guess I can look forward to hours more of searching and limit myself to posting one or two specific questions. Good thing it's fun.

So where am I now? The carb is off and the rubber bits are toast. The reed cage is in nice shape. The friend who gave me the saw is looking for the missing air filter and related bits, but I don't have high hopes.

So now I'm shopping for a Walbro SDC-8 carb rebuild kit, reed cage gaskets, and the Homelite official formed fuel line. And maybe all of the air filter bits. I'll get the saw running and then see if the automatic oiler needs help.

 

[8433jeff]

The air filter can be purchased new, I believe. As to the other parts, if he can't find them, shoot me a PM.

 

[Walt41]

Is the Homelite Logmaster worth picking up, just got a lead on one and never heard of them...

 

[leeha]

Is the Homelite Logmaster worth picking up, just got a lead on one and never heard of them...

Remington made a Logmaster.
Never heard of a Homelite Logmaster.


Lee

 

[cbfarmall]

Remington made a Logmaster.
Never heard of a Homelite Logmaster.


Lee

Wonder if he really means Powermaster? If so, I think several models carried that designation, all of them worth having.

Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

If you were to pull the front cover off, you would see the path from the cylinder serpentines a bit. I'll post a picture my next day off.

Here's that shot of the 900G cast-aluminum muffler guts I promised. The exhaust path is straight down the length of the body and then back up to the port and deflector. No doubt the little bulkhead seals tight when the halves are bolted together.

Chris B.

 

[Walt41]

Remington made a Logmaster.
Never heard of a Homelite Logmaster.


Lee

It's on CL here, mabye a Remington, I'll offer 20 and see what he says

 

[briantutt]

Here's that shot of the 900G cast-aluminum muffler guts I promised. The exhaust path is straight down the length of the body and then back up to the port and deflector. No doubt the little bulkhead seals tight when the halves are bolted together.

Chris B.

Oh yeah...look at the skinny torturous path...NOT!:jawdrop:

You should make a video of one running so we can hear it.

 

[Walt41]

Zip question

On the intake of the zip, there is a thin metal flap, my question is, should this be closed fully when saw is not running? It was corroded badly and would like to know if maybe there is still some gunk holding it open, I sent it thru the UC a few times but it seems to want to remain open about 1/32"

 

[leeha]

On the intake of the zip, there is a thin metal flap, my question is, should this be closed fully when saw is not running? It was corroded badly and would like to know if maybe there is still some gunk holding it open, I sent it thru the UC a few times but it seems to want to remain open about 1/32"

That would be the reed valve and yes
it should be close when not running.
I have seen some that were just a tad
open and when running they worked fine.
I would take yours apart if it was corroded.
It may need to be replaced as with the intake.


Lee

 

[Walt41]

That would be the reed valve and yes
it should be close when not running.
I have seen some that were just a tad
open and when running they worked fine.
I would take yours apart if it was corroded.
It may need to be replaced as with the intake.


Lee

Thanks Lee, I'll grind the rivets off, re-machine the intake and re-rivet it. Guess I finally have a use for that bucket of aluminum aircraft rivets that I bought years ago.

 

[leeha]

Thanks Lee, I'll grind the rivets off, re-machine the intake and re-rivet it. Guess I finally have a use for that bucket of aluminum aircraft rivets that I bought years ago.

I would replace the rivets with the same type.
I don't think there aluminum. Aluminum is soft
and probably won't hold up and will brake off.
Then you got issues.


Lee