Poge, did you have the Homelite with the hole in the clutch cover. There is another one on the bay, and with James saw, that makes 3 of them. I'd say that means they were made that way.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Just got the word from Joyce, “chainsawlady”, and some other guys at HOH, that the hole in the clutch cover is from bolts coming loose and cutting the hole out. Not some weird application.
Yep.
The culprits.
The result of loose ones.
The result of loose ones.
This one may finally get me to break down and buy a good degree wheel and timing gun.
This is what I’ve got. What am I missing?
Pulled apart my parts saw. Question answered!
Second question. Is it ok with the old one rolling around in the bottom of the sump? Or should I try and get it out.
Second question. Is it ok with the old one rolling around in the bottom of the sump? Or should I try and get it out.
I threw the one from the parts saw in and it’s oiling well! I’ll try to fish the old one out this weekend.
Hey guys.....
For the XL12 with the short chunk of fuel line from the carb to the copper line above the clutch cover: This is just standard fuel line, correct? And if so do you know the diameter off hand?
For the XL12 with the short chunk of fuel line from the carb to the copper line above the clutch cover: This is just standard fuel line, correct? And if so do you know the diameter off hand?
My fuel line is copper up to a nipple above the clutch cover. I’ll grab a pic in a minute.
Early XL-12's used a weird arrangement with a wick type fuel filter in the tank and a copper line to a junction for a rubber line that attached to the carb.
Ok I'm unfamiliar with that, the 3 I have are all rubber.
Yes sir this is the wick style.
Amazingly this saw only needed this 3” chunk of line repaired to be a runner. Kill switch not working but I’ve got two parts saws to borrow from.
Back at the XL98 today. Flywheel is on there tight and I'm reluctant to try fighting it much further. Magnets seem to line up the same on both XL98 and XL925 also.
And it occurred to me that if the key did shear allowing the crank to move forward without the flywheel following, the timing would then actually become retarded by the crank (and piston) position being behind the desired timing position of the flywheel and coil..., unless the crank was somehow able to make an almost 360 degree rotation without the flywheel moving, hence going almost full circle to a position of actual advanced timing. Highly, highly unlikely without the flywheel being loose enough to easily be removed. Not sure what else could advance timing on this thing except maybe a coil/flywheel mismatch. Sorta stumped at present.
Tank is getting flushed and new fuel lines/filter and air filter going in this afternoon. The owner says he needs to literally stand on it and hold the throttle wide open with a small elastic strap to start it. Maybe I'll give that a try! LOL
I've only had one key shear and the flywheel moved CCW advancing the timing.
I actually moved far enough to keep the saw from starting.
I never checked when I bought the saw but I am assuming there was some lube on the taper.
I did have a look in the 5th Ed manual (part 2) and if yours is an XL-98A it is supposed to have a CD ignition (three piece) so you may be right in thinking a module has been subbed. They may have moved on to the module though.
Assuming the same module and flywheel for the 98 as the 925.
Part numbers
96801 1 S ROTOR- Magnet0
A96798 1 S MODULE- Ignition
Pic of that module from Leon's site.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...insaw_Electronic_Ignition_Coil_A-96798-A.html
Flywheel pic
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153088341983
I actually moved far enough to keep the saw from starting.
I never checked when I bought the saw but I am assuming there was some lube on the taper.
I did have a look in the 5th Ed manual (part 2) and if yours is an XL-98A it is supposed to have a CD ignition (three piece) so you may be right in thinking a module has been subbed. They may have moved on to the module though.
Assuming the same module and flywheel for the 98 as the 925.
Part numbers
96801 1 S ROTOR- Magnet0
A96798 1 S MODULE- Ignition
Pic of that module from Leon's site.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...insaw_Electronic_Ignition_Coil_A-96798-A.html
Flywheel pic
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153088341983
Thanks, Tim. I appreciate the effort. I must admit that I've always wondered how/why a chainsaw flywheel key would shear in the first place unless the flywheel was loose. Seems like chain brakes being activated would shear them all the time. Also seems like direction of final resting place would be random depending on why a key broke. If the crank stopped abruptly you'd think the flywheel would keep rotating ccw by inertia as you suggested. If the flywheel became loose or bound up I could see the crank shearing a key and advancing ccw beyond the normal position.
Whatever, I hope just getting this thing running will possibly loosen it up a little.
Got the XL925 dialed in real nice today. Had to go pretty lean on the H screw to get it to wind out like I think it should. Kinda wondering if I'm fighting the governor on that one.
Whatever, I hope just getting this thing running will possibly loosen it up a little.
Got the XL925 dialed in real nice today. Had to go pretty lean on the H screw to get it to wind out like I think it should. Kinda wondering if I'm fighting the governor on that one.
Poge,
What's that sitting on top of the armature? (yellow arrow)
What's that sitting on top of the armature? (yellow arrow)
Unless you're referring to that slightly raised area, it's just hardened concrete dust. I'll pull the cover and examine it more closely.
