Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just be warned that those saws, running are worth about 25 bucks. If you have one with dual triggers and it’s spotless you might get 45 bucks. And they are very plentiful so there’s nothing “hard to find” about them.

They are good little saws though. Most frequently they need new duckbill valves and/or fuel/oil lines. I’ve never actually seen on that died from use.
Noted thank you!
 
20200516_070722.jpg
After a new fuel system refreshing Doug got a new loop of .404 skip chisel.20200516_171108.jpg
And some new fittings and washers ( mopar sb rocker hold downs)
After all the special treatment Dougs been given he's definitely not refined, tore through the double brach of pecan with out strain and still tries to tear my fingers off even with the new throttle lock!20200516_171134.jpg
(New loop of chain because I couldn't find the full comp. )
 
Did someone say Homelite pictures?
I've got a couple of those.
f5b5bf2adb74beda6372eacfa6195fe6.jpg


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Got seals done now have other issues

Anyone know what these are for? Searched in my homelite shop service manuals and the saw ipl to no avail

1. This is mounted on a hinge on the air box and is actuated by the connector shown in the 2nd pic that is connected to the throttle shaft, 3rd pic. It "opens" and "closes" as the throttle is opened/closed.

2. Pic 4 - This has a spring mounted to it that is also connected to the throttle . Seems to be in addition to the trigger spring to close the throttle.

circular saw.jpgcircular saw - 2.jpgcircular saw - 3.jpgcircular saw - 4.jpg


I can't see where either of these are even useful but what do i know?

any help appreciated.
 
Got seals done now have other issues

Anyone know what these are for? Searched in my homelite shop service manuals and the saw ipl to no avail

1. This is mounted on a hinge on the air box and is actuated by the connector shown in the 2nd pic that is connected to the throttle shaft, 3rd pic. It "opens" and "closes" as the throttle is opened/closed.

2. Pic 4 - This has a spring mounted to it that is also connected to the throttle . Seems to be in addition to the trigger spring to close the throttle.

View attachment 828797View attachment 828798View attachment 828799View attachment 828800


I can't see where either of these are even useful but what do i know?

any help appreciated.
Could it be some sort of governor?
 
Likely an excessive post, but perhaps some may find interest.

I picked up an arduous project this week. I have converted the 2.3 XL-1 to the 2.5 XL-1 AO/Super Mini in the past. It included modifying the drivecase to accept the additional auto oiler. In reality, I was just after the cool hardnose Oregon bar but...things got involved.

PO botched a reassembly about 30 years ago. XL-1 (blue) drivecase was improperly mounted to the Super Mini. Further inspection revealed a wallowed out bearing pocket in the case and missing retainer clips. Crank had been drifting all over the place. Super Mini auto pump was mounted to the drivecase, but the blanks were still in place for the manual only intention. Lots of hours (but I have the time) and 3 stripped saws later, I managed to put together a runner.

I salvaged a crank, rod, bearing and drivecase (manual oiler setup only) off of a smoked XL-1. I used the crankcase from the original Super Mini. I also had to convert the drivecase to accept the oil pump in addition to the manual like I've done before.

Only for those that may be remotely interested in killing chunks of 2 days and nights need apply.

Some starting parts after stripping 3 saws

Homelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (4).JPG

Drilled out the drivecase plugs to gain access to the direct bypass to the bar pad. Blocked the bridge between the left (inlet to auto pump) and right (outlet to bar pad) with strategically worked dollops of JB-Weld. Copper wire shows the bypass that is now blocked off.

Homelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (13).JPGHomelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (14).JPG

Tapped the screw bosses with 8-32. Had to increase the pilot diameter on the pump by 0.035". The casting on the red XL-1 drivecase is larger around the crank than I recall on the really early XL-1 (blues). That, or I likely forgot that I had to modify the pump somewhat. Hack using a dremel and some redneckery.

Homelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (15).JPGHomelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (18).JPG

Bolts up and both manual and auto oiler work well.

Homelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (22).JPG

Struggled with the carb in the end with low pop off and running rich. Phantom/random spark issue perhaps. Swapped a couple coils and condensers. Not finished yet, but was for the day. Boss for the top tank screw totally absent. Not much else I could do with a washer and a ball peen hammer. Did I mention those tank fasteners suck. Had to drill out 3 when stripping the XL-1 and remove them by chucking the stubs in a vice.

Homelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (12).JPG

I really like the early paint jobs on this series. They are all business.

Homelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (1).JPGHomelite XL-1 Super Mini Conversion (10).JPG
 
Likely an excessive post, but perhaps some may find interest.

I picked up an arduous project this week. I have converted the 2.3 XL-1 to the 2.5 XL-1 AO/Super Mini in the past. It included modifying the drivecase to accept the additional auto oiler. In reality, I was just after the cool hardnose Oregon bar but...things got involved.

PO botched a reassembly about 30 years ago. XL-1 (blue) drivecase was improperly mounted to the Super Mini. Further inspection revealed a wallowed out bearing pocket in the case and missing retainer clips. Crank had been drifting all over the place. Super Mini auto pump was mounted to the drivecase, but the blanks were still in place for the manual only intention. Lots of hours (but I have the time) and 3 stripped saws later, I managed to put together a runner.

I salvaged a crank, rod, bearing and drivecase (manual oiler setup only) off of a smoked XL-1. I used the crankcase from the original Super Mini. I also had to convert the drivecase to accept the oil pump in addition to the manual like I've done before.

Only for those that may be remotely interested in killing chunks of 2 days and nights need apply.

Some starting parts after stripping 3 saws

View attachment 830220

Drilled out the drivecase plugs to gain access to the direct bypass to the bar pad. Blocked the bridge between the left (inlet to auto pump) and right (outlet to bar pad) with strategically worked dollops of JB-Weld. Copper wire shows the bypass that is now blocked off.

View attachment 830223View attachment 830224

Tapped the screw bosses with 8-32. Had to increase the pilot diameter on the pump by 0.035". The casting on the red XL-1 drivecase is larger around the crank than I recall on the really early XL-1 (blues). That, or I likely forgot that I had to modify the pump somewhat. Hack using a dremel and some redneckery.

View attachment 830225View attachment 830226

Bolts up and both manual and auto oiler work well.

View attachment 830227

Struggled with the carb in the end with low pop off and running rich. Phantom/random spark issue perhaps. Swapped a couple coils and condensers. Not finished yet, but was for the day. Boss for the top tank screw totally absent. Not much else I could do with a washer and a ball peen hammer. Did I mention those tank fasteners suck. Had to drill out 3 when stripping the XL-1 and remove them by chucking the stubs in a vice.

View attachment 830222

I really like the early paint jobs on this series. They are all business.

View attachment 830219View attachment 830221
Very nice
 
Can you run a XL800 piston #63781 in a Super XL925 saw with stock cylinder?

I know the XL925 uses a “hard to find” piston #69467 with thin piston rings, but is that the only difference between the two? Stroke & bore are identical...
 
Well it happened I finally got the Homelite bug. I picked up an XL12 a while back, cut a little wood with it, and while it’s a great saw it just didn’t turn me on to the Homelite brand so I cleaned it up and put it on the shelf.

then yesterday I found this little gem for $35. Old boy was retiring and cleaning out his shop. After an initial once over I put some fresh mix in and she fired up after about 8-9 pulls. Took a bit to find herself then settled in and purred. He said it hasn’t ran in probably 25 years. Needless to say I’m hooked lol.

DFA30E70-E641-411C-895B-E11D47C5DE38.jpegEB488788-61CA-417B-A39B-383993232F44.jpeg65E7E9AA-6369-4532-B045-D4E1CA524F5D.jpegEB345E25-8FF3-42FE-8D89-449F95A7FE15.jpeg
Super clean one owner saw.
oilers work and the fuel tank was clean. All the de comp mechanism works etc.
Ordered a carb kit just in case but I don’t think it needs it. Let it sit overnight then went out this morning and she fired right up! CC89CE6E-00E7-41A7-ADF5-54290EEC78A8.jpegECB614D7-948C-4EDE-82F7-7159E8BAD69F.jpeg65ED4455-7488-462D-978D-8C7E153C0F47.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • F4C8F6B1-F5BD-4819-87AD-9FCD3643BA0F.jpeg
    F4C8F6B1-F5BD-4819-87AD-9FCD3643BA0F.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 13
  • 9E6CBA10-3CC4-4F19-A69F-35F872D6CB30.jpeg
    9E6CBA10-3CC4-4F19-A69F-35F872D6CB30.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 9

Latest posts

Back
Top