Homelite Chainsaws

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Well based on the adjustment screw and the position of the throttle, I don't think the locking pin is doing anything. The low speed adjustment seems to be "fixed" by the little aluminum colored screw that sits against the plate that the linkage is attached to, (see pic above). As you can see from the pic, it appears it is screwed in pretty close to all the way in from looking at how the spring is compressed. So, I am assuming that "someone" did this either to set a fast idle or to not have to mess with the locking pin?? There is very little room to put your foot in the handle and when I was trying to start it, my foot kept either hitting the trigger or the locking pin would pop out. So, maybe that is why someone adjusted that screw in further?, just guessing of course. Or, is that screw normally adjusted in that far.
Gonna try some starter fluid on her tomorrow and see if I can get it to pop.
 

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Gonna try some starter fluid on her tomorrow and see if I can get it to pop.

DO NOT use starting fluid (ether),it contains no oil that can protect the cylinder & piston.Squirt or pour a teapoon or so of 32-1 fuel mix in the carburetor venturi.That will tell you if it's gonna pop.
 
From Experience
And on the EZ's their is a shiny headed slotted screw in the front of the handle, take the air filter cover off to see, and it's a fine threaded screw that adjusts how much throttle is applied by the trigger lock. (I"m not familiar with your saw's location of the screw)
Some saws like to have quite a fast throttle trigger lock for easier starting
AND when the trigger lock speed is set to fast it's really good for starting a saw that has been flooded. Gives the saw lots more air, like holding open the throttle to clear a flooded condition.
The screw is find threaded and takes several turns to get a response and do so slowly because it threads into the plastic trigger on the EZ's.
 
Got super xl-925 today at an auction. I have d009 and stihl Mount bars. Anyone have bar mount adapter recommendations or do I need to buy a d096 or d196 bar?
 

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Traded for this old thing. It was missing a couple covers but all are shared with other gear drives so I was able to replace them. The shifter knob was broke off but someone was gracious enough to make one from scratch. It'll be on the resto list for the summer.

View attachment 910067View attachment 910068
I have a big bow bar if you're interested.
 
One of my newest acquisitions, a XL-800 along with a 770D and XL-12
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Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
 
A couple Homelite that took
their time getting to the Yukon
Came from a collection in Indiana. No cleaning for now the 990g joined a few other 2 mans in my shop. Had to check the piston and it is good. The XP 1020 has a Homelite Vinyl bar sheath
 

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A couple Homelite that took
their time getting to the Yukon
Came from a collection in Indiana. No cleaning for now the 990g joined a few other 2 mans in my shop. Had to check the piston and it is good. The XP 1020 has a Homelite Vinyl bar sheath
Appears that those crappie old Homelites are gonna be a headache for you, I'm a real team player and willing to take them off your hands...you know, to help out, it's for the children! [emoji57]

Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
 
I'll ask here too. Someone here might know this.

So whats the difference in these 3 Homelite 2000 listed on Acres? All the same or is there something different about some of them? Like half and full wraps difference.
2000
2000-E-AUTOMATIC
2000-P-AUTOMATIC


h20000.jpgh2000stic.jpgh2000fly.jpgh2000carb.jpg
 
To slow up the PM's.

I sold 2000 to a guy on my chainsaw repair group FB for $240 already yesterday. Not out to gouge folks like some do. Just wanted to cover my time and gas getting it.

Only took 5mins too. Was just asking about the differences in 2000 2100 etc.

Like above still trying to figure why 3 2000 listed.
 
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