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Ginger15

Ginger15

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Thanks. I'll hit it tomorrow. I havent made up a thing for the sand paper yet. Only the scotch brite. The two areas that are worn through would be in opposing directions, so would hitting the whole cylinder at the same time be wise?
 
Ginger15

Ginger15

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Back with stupid questions. Working on my Super 2. I removed the clutch nut but the drum won't slide off the bearing. What am I missing?
I need to work on it some more but just haven't had the time.

One thing I've learned is there are no stupid questions. But I'll give a shot at helping...

Is it just stuck? Rusted? I attached a link to a diagram, it looks like there might be a bolt or nut that holds the drum on? I sure hope this is the diagram for you saw. :reading:

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hom...s-Manual-For-SUPER-2-Chain-Saw-UT-10520-A.pdf
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

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Thanks. I'll hit it tomorrow. I havent made up a thing for the sand paper yet. Only the scotch brite. The two areas that are worn through would be in opposing directions, so would hitting the whole cylinder at the same time be wise?

The Scotch-Brite shouldn't pose a problem in those areas. 320 grit may, but it will also be easier to keep away from the exposed areas using a smaller diameter dowel approach for the sandpaper vs. the eye bolt 'hone'.

Just go for it using common sense and patience. Worst that can happen is it still may not be a use-able cylinder after you get it all cleaned up but you learn some ins and outs about the process that'll give you more confidence for the next one.

First cylinder I ever cleaned up took me three days using 800 grit! Yeah, I learned a thing or two on that one. LOL Still have the saw to this day and it runs great.
 
Ginger15

Ginger15

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I did manage to make a sand paper flap wheel for a dremel with 320. I can always make it in a softer grit if need be. I'll try the dremel first and give it a shot. Do I need to get all the streaks out or just the rough alum spots?
 
fossil
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Back with stupid questions. Working on my Super 2. I removed the clutch nut but the drum won't slide off the bearing. What am I missing?
I need to work on it some more but just haven't had the time.

I suspect like Ginger said that the drum is stuck to the bearing and the bearing to the shaft. Put some penetrating oil in there and leave it for awhile to see if you can free it up.

The "S" type clutches do break but I don't know if that would cause it to jam the drum.

Also watch for this which is from the repair manual.

upload_2017-2-14_10-11-5.png
 
Ginger15

Ginger15

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After a light scotch brite and 320 grit paper. That streak above the exhaust port has me a bit worried. It looks like the plating is off. Looking through my photos I see it was there before the scotch brite and sand paper.
 
brandonstc6

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Last week, I picked up a homelite C51. Today my dad picked up a homelite saw that he says looks exactly like the C51 but it is red. Any ideas on what kind of saw he found. I won't be able to look at it till next Friday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

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....Do I need to get all the streaks out or just the rough alum spots?

You'll still have some wear mark streaks even with all the aluminum removed. What you don't want are scratches or gouges that can be detected by a fine pic or razor blade..., especially above the ports where the rings travel. Can be a compression killer. And depending on other options for a cylinder, a little plating flaking shouldn't rule out using the one you have. It will get worse eventually and if large enough pieces flake away you'll probably end up with another scored piston from the debris.
 
Ginger15

Ginger15

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I had a member here locate a NOS 77cc cylinder. I am waiting on a photo of the bore with a flash(hopefully). Would that be the safer route to go? If someone wanted my older cylinder if I end up getting the new one I would send it along to them.

You'll still have some wear mark streaks even with all the aluminum removed. What you don't want are scratches or gouges that can be detected by a fine pic or razor blade..., especially above the ports where the rings travel. Can be a compression killer. And depending on other options for a cylinder, a little plating flaking shouldn't rule out using the one you have. It will get worse eventually and if large enough pieces flake away you'll probably end up with another scored piston from the debris.
 

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