homestead elms

[mquinn]

i get a bit annoyed with our landscape architects here because they pick something new, according to the press on it and plant rows of them. three years ago it was the hybrid 'homestead' elm because DED hit our americans and the pr on 'homestead' says it's resistant.

we haven't had these things on campus long enough to know how they perform in our constantly changing missouri climate. (but we've got a whole long mall lined on both sides with them. heaven forbid you should try two or three first. sorry. pet peeve. venting a bit here.)

this year, we've finally gotten a spring, and a wet one at that. the homesteads are severely infected with anthracnose. some have lost a good portion of their foliage already. i wonder how they're going to recover, and whether they are just particularly susceptible. anybody have any experience?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

When the cut down all the Ulmus Americana the biggest factor was mono culture. Now you have a Mono-clonal-culture.

Some people never learn

 

[mquinn]

no kidding.

it's an architect's narrow view of what is acceptable architecturally, i think. trees as design elements, not as living systems.

and if they insist on doing that, i would think it would behoove them to stick with trees that they already know are suitable for the site. you would still have monoculture, but....

 

[Guy Meilleur]

M-sama, hello again.

Dirr (1998) mentioned Homestead elms get beetle, said nada re anthracnose. Maybe it's passing and injections would be worth a try. Are there any for anthracnose?
If they're in a streetscape then cultural modifications like soil improvement may not be practical...(?)

 

[mquinn]

hey guy. just wondering about you yesterday. got my mental inquiry, did you?

it's a little early for me to think about doing anything to manage the condition. well, a little late, and a little early. just trying to do some investigation at this point.

send me an update on your personal condition, eh?

cheers,
m

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Maybe for the anthacnose, shcedule a Cleary's/Banner spray for next spring when they are partialy leafed out.

They both remain effective in the tissue for around a month, and the banner can kill the mycillium if it is around 5 days old or less. (the fungus, not the mix )


I think the weather profile is damp cool days, mid fourties to low 50's for leaf infection. so two apps are smoetimes needed.

Eagle, wich is outstanding on applescab, does squat to anthrancnose of any ilk.