Not to swipe any trade secrets or get into the game, but all the talk of this season's GTGs has got me thinking. In any motorsport, there are extremes. To what extremes can one take a full-on competition saw, besides the normal porting, carb, muffler, tuned pipes and such.
Specifically, I was thinking about cut times - what are they, in the seconds range depending on wood type and size, and was class (and operator and chain supplier, but that's another thread completely!) 4 ~ 10 seconds? In that short burst with subsequent rounds spaced apart for cooling, is there any benefit to forced air cooling "in the cut", or could one do away with the cooling fins on the jug? Would there be adequate benefit for removing weight, for change-ups, or ground-to-log travel, or balance? What about the fan on teh flywheel? Those have to induce a parasitic load on the saw. Could some itty-bitty bit of power be used to power the chain instead of pushing air? At least help the "spool-up" time? Is anyone at the extreme edge to the point of such miniscule "tricks" would be beneficial? What about swiss-cheezing the saw's "bodywork" or bar?
Again, don't reveal any secrets, don't consider me a threat in any fashion (as is painfully obvious by this post and others of mine, huh?) And don't flame, either - it's notlike this is a "Stihl/Husky - which is better" or "What oil mix should I use" or any typical askedahunnerttimesalready post.
Specifically, I was thinking about cut times - what are they, in the seconds range depending on wood type and size, and was class (and operator and chain supplier, but that's another thread completely!) 4 ~ 10 seconds? In that short burst with subsequent rounds spaced apart for cooling, is there any benefit to forced air cooling "in the cut", or could one do away with the cooling fins on the jug? Would there be adequate benefit for removing weight, for change-ups, or ground-to-log travel, or balance? What about the fan on teh flywheel? Those have to induce a parasitic load on the saw. Could some itty-bitty bit of power be used to power the chain instead of pushing air? At least help the "spool-up" time? Is anyone at the extreme edge to the point of such miniscule "tricks" would be beneficial? What about swiss-cheezing the saw's "bodywork" or bar?
Again, don't reveal any secrets, don't consider me a threat in any fashion (as is painfully obvious by this post and others of mine, huh?) And don't flame, either - it's notlike this is a "Stihl/Husky - which is better" or "What oil mix should I use" or any typical askedahunnerttimesalready post.