Agree 100%. I have a very high stress job as well and I also find saw cleaning therapeutic. Doesn't take any brain engagement, so you can let your mind wander. Lot cheaper than going to the shrink,, too!
How clean do you get it?
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Agree 100%. I have a very high stress job as well and I also find saw cleaning therapeutic. Doesn't take any brain engagement, so you can let your mind wander. Lot cheaper than going to the shrink,, too!
schmauster
Secret ArboristSite Operative
for my personal saws I spray them down with cast*ol super clean and let it work for 15 minutes... Hot water spray off afterwards and a quick 5 minute run to dry it out is what I do. Gotta keep the cooling fins clean
I'm not a dealer but this is one of my 038S to 038M conversions before I tore it down.
I try to do the same when I have spare time just because the saw will last longer.
Here is a $95 craigs list 026 that was filthy when I brought it
Attachments
For detailing what? I am after some sorta compound to detail the cover plastics...
Riles32807
Stihl Tri-ing
I love Meguiar's interior detailer for auto plastics. I haven't tried it on a saw yet but it should work.
Thanks a bunch
Wicked500R
ArboristSite Guru
I'm going to try the plastic polish for auto headlights on my 044 cover.
Riles32807
Stihl Tri-ing
If you've done headlights before then you probably already know, low & slow, heat is not your friend when polishing plastics. Takes a little more grunt, but I'd probably hand polish.
Wicked500R
ArboristSite Guru
my std procedure is this...on a saw getting a major service or something that I salvaged and am putting a top end on or total built..lets say a husky 51...remove tank assembly and all other plastic including recoil assembly and clutch cover...mix up hot 5 gal pail of water ad whatever detergent...simple green and dawn I have used dump it all in and let soak in the warm sun if possible. remove flywheel and coil blow off eng. with comp air finish off in parts washer with brush and blow off. dump and scrub stubborn parts a bit rinse and blow off the soak loosens the crud so it mostly ends up in the bottom of the bucket when I'm do I can go pretty fast on whatever the rest of the repair is....not cost effective but on some saws it just has to be done....for me to get into it for the completed job to be at the level I want....but it is bout the most time consuming part except for prob porting that I basically don't do..
the can
the can
That is a great idea to keep the crud and mess all in the bucket.
earlthegoat2
ArboristSite Guru
Pressure washer has about equal potential to do damage as compressed air. Compressed air can easily take the debris you are trying to clean off and force it past an oil seal.
I will only use compressed air when the flywheel and clutch are still in place.
A parts washer is your friend.
If the saw is going to get a full tear down with new seals I will give it complete hell with a pressure washer and a steam Jenny if available. Elbow grease is for the birds.
I will only use compressed air when the flywheel and clutch are still in place.
A parts washer is your friend.
If the saw is going to get a full tear down with new seals I will give it complete hell with a pressure washer and a steam Jenny if available. Elbow grease is for the birds.
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I didn't get the impression that this thread was in regards to a complete tear-down. If it was, then yes, things would be done differently.
A pressure washer, even a garden hose, is not your friend when it comes to cleaning O P E that has not been torn down.
There isn't a chemical cleaner on the face of this planet that is as effective as some good ole pure elbow grease.
+1 on differences between 'maintenance cleaning' and 'tear down / rebuild cleaning'. 'Repair cleaning' falls into that awkward area in between!
Philbert
Philbert
Adam08ski, I should have elaborated, so sorry about that. I use Flitz to remove grime, dirt, and so on from the paint on my metal bodied saws. It also shines up the paint and gives it a sheen if you will. It's really like a rubbing compound, only better, and the finished product looks waxed. I have no suggestions for plastics, but imagine Flitz would be beneficial to an extent there as well. I like the idea of Meguiar's Interior Detailer as mentioned above and plan on trying it. Max.
I never thought of using Blackberry Brandy for a parts cleaner, thanks!
I found out that if money's no object, Meguiar's tire and wheel cleaner will take dirt off anything without any rubbing, just let it sit for a short while and hose it off..It's kinda pricey for me though..
Start with a dry brushes (stiff and supple) for loose stuff. Have one of those, a small one, just for filling oil/gas.
Then I go to a spray bottle with diesel/kero, let it sit, parts brush, rinse with some simple green/dish detergent, water.
What don't come off with that gets another round of diesel, time, then a soft scraper of wood/plastic, then detergent/water again.
Diesel is~$3-gal, dish detergent ~ $2-quart, parts brushes ? $5-10?.
Flocked filters use a soft brush in the field, then hand wash with dish detergent at home, water rinse (Well) , dry. My $30 stihl filters last a LONG time.
Pressure washers/comp air are just going to put **** into places they have not found yet. So is dunking a saw. I'd only consider that if it was a total tear down and I could get to each and every internal ASAP. I can maybe see using them on a recoil or bar cover, if you take the former apart.
My 2 cents.
I forgot about the bar!
All the surfaces on the saw and guards need to be clean. You need to clean the groove , true the rails , then clean it.
Groove cleaner: take a large penny common nail and bend the point ~30 degrees. Wack the tip with a peen hammer on an anvil (you can improvise this) until it fits your bar groove. Now you have a bar groove cleaner for 0.02 $USD. Make a few, one for home , one for tool kit, one for where ta f did it go......
True rails; vetrical belt sander if you can use one, the expensive tools they sell to do that too, or just clamp bar in vise and use a new draw file. If you ,don't know how to draw file you were not in my metal shop class and you are ignorant, but can be learned; go to web but avoid Wiki. You need a big flat bassturd file
All the surfaces on the saw and guards need to be clean. You need to clean the groove , true the rails , then clean it.
Groove cleaner: take a large penny common nail and bend the point ~30 degrees. Wack the tip with a peen hammer on an anvil (you can improvise this) until it fits your bar groove. Now you have a bar groove cleaner for 0.02 $USD. Make a few, one for home , one for tool kit, one for where ta f did it go......
True rails; vetrical belt sander if you can use one, the expensive tools they sell to do that too, or just clamp bar in vise and use a new draw file. If you ,don't know how to draw file you were not in my metal shop class and you are ignorant, but can be learned; go to web but avoid Wiki. You need a big flat bassturd file
I would love to lean more efficient methods (for most things!).
In the field, I use these highly specialized cleaning kits (that cost nothing to make, if you scrounge a little). Paint brush gets of light dust, and cleans gently around air filter; toothbrush gets most other dust off; sawzall/recip blade is for the bar groove and oil holes. I keep one with each saw and give them out to friends. I also use popsicle sticks, with the ends cut to a point with a pair of side cutters, to pick out greasy clods - they scratch less than the end of a scrench.
At home, I use compressed air, except on the air filter, and near the carb (unless plugged with a cloth), along with these tools. You can also use a rag to protect seals or anything else that you want to keep from getting blasted,
I use 409 / Fantastik / Simple Green, etc. on the plastics, with a rag or paper towels, and finish off with ArmorAll if I am in the mood to make things look pretty. Q-tips help there. I use citrus based cleaners, or SuperClean (water based cleaner with sodium hydroxide) and toothpicks to clean greasy things, then rinse well. Compressed air, again, helps drive off excess water. I don't usually get the recoil spring wet, but would hit it with WD-40 if I did.
Disassembly helps keep water off things that you want to protect, but takes much more time. It lets you really inspect a used saw that you have just acquired, but takes a lot of time for one that you are just servicing.
Chains go through the chain spa: https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
Philbert
In the field, I use these highly specialized cleaning kits (that cost nothing to make, if you scrounge a little). Paint brush gets of light dust, and cleans gently around air filter; toothbrush gets most other dust off; sawzall/recip blade is for the bar groove and oil holes. I keep one with each saw and give them out to friends. I also use popsicle sticks, with the ends cut to a point with a pair of side cutters, to pick out greasy clods - they scratch less than the end of a scrench.
At home, I use compressed air, except on the air filter, and near the carb (unless plugged with a cloth), along with these tools. You can also use a rag to protect seals or anything else that you want to keep from getting blasted,
I use 409 / Fantastik / Simple Green, etc. on the plastics, with a rag or paper towels, and finish off with ArmorAll if I am in the mood to make things look pretty. Q-tips help there. I use citrus based cleaners, or SuperClean (water based cleaner with sodium hydroxide) and toothpicks to clean greasy things, then rinse well. Compressed air, again, helps drive off excess water. I don't usually get the recoil spring wet, but would hit it with WD-40 if I did.
Disassembly helps keep water off things that you want to protect, but takes much more time. It lets you really inspect a used saw that you have just acquired, but takes a lot of time for one that you are just servicing.
Chains go through the chain spa: https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
Philbert
