How do you make a second cut square

[parrisw]

I got a 36" alaskan mill, the first cut is no problem, so far I ve just been slabbing the wood, and cutting each slab after with a skill saw, to make a straight edge.

So my question is, after the first cut, how do I rotate the log 90 deg, do I rotate it and put a level on it so the first cut is vertical level, then put the level on the guide for the second cut?? That way it would be square with the first cut?

How do you all do it?

Thanks

Will

 

[Gumneck]

A large framer's square works for me. Using a level I dont think will necessarily make it square to your first cut.

EDIT
In case I was too vague, I put the square at the butt end of log lining up my first cut on one side and make a mark across the butt end with a pencil then set up my alaskan to line up with my pencil mark. Probably a better way but it does work.

I could be wrong though. But the square works.

Tom

 

[parrisw]

Thanks, I will give it a try.

Will

 

[woodshop]

I do carry a 24 inch framers square with me milling, and once in while will use it, but most of the time I rotate the log and just eyeball when putting the guide on for the next cut. If I am a few degrees off and the cant is just a little out of square, no big deal. All that means is my boards I mill from that cant might be a quarter inch wider one end of board to the other. Once dried and stickered, I use the bandsaw/jointer/planer to get the boards square in the shop. If the sides of the rough boards are slightly off 90 from the board... taking it to S4S in the shop takes care of that. for my situation, too much finesse while milling doesn't pay enough dividends time wise. Better to get the thing into a cant without too much fussing around and slice into boards.

 

[timberwolf]

For boards I find it best to edge the boards one by one. I can get a good bit extra lumber that way. But for beams I do the same, just square up the top guide board/ladder at 90 deg with a square.

 

[parrisw]

Great thanks for the tips guys.

Will

 

[dustytools]

You could also look into the Granberg Mini-Mill. I had the chance to use one at our mini GTG a few weeks ago and ended up ordering one from Baileys. Its right around $83 shipped. No rotating of the log is required,just screw the guide to the log after you have made your initial cut and edge away.

 

[Adkpk]

I use the mini mill. Once I rip off the top of the log I get a straighter cut with mini mill. (I always find some imperfection in my first cut with Alaskan) The mini mill works on a track so it is most always a straighter cut. Then I take off the other side. Flip the cant on its side and take off the bottom. At this time the first side I sliced with the mini mill is on top and then I'm set to slab away. The alternative is a framers square.
Like woodshop said, once the wood is dry and ready for being worked I trim it on the tablesaw, planer or jointer.

 

[parrisw]

HE he he, funny you should say that, I actually have a slabber. Its called a lumber maker, forgot I had it, I bought it over a year ago and never used it. I should try it out I guess!! It just uses a 2x4 as a guide. I actually had really good results with the first cut on the alaskan, I just used a aluminum extension ladder, its very straight and wont bend, giving a very straight first cut.

Thanks

Will

 

[oldsaw]

It really depends on the log. The carpenter's square is a good idea, but I just eyeball it too. If the log is crooked, or the ground uneven, I'll just flat saw it and use the skilsaw later. If it's small, I'll flat saw it to increase the yield. If the log is 16-18" or less, I don't usually bother. Bigger, it's usually worth it to cant it out. 20" is probably my actual "cut-off" for canting.

Mark