How many times?

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Every saw is different. They all have a certain number of pulls before it kicks in. 5-10 in your example. My Stihl is 5 pulls any day of the week. I think my husky is 4 possibly 5
 
After a carb rebuild, how many try's does it usually take to get a chainsaw to start?

Well.... kinda depends on is this a clogged carb that was rebuilt. OR, it was a rebuild because the carb kit diaphram, fuel pump, parts were stiff and took many pulls to start or ran poorly.

When if fix, soak, rebuild a carb that had old fuel, would not start, and I want to keep the OEM carb. Put it back together. There are lots of small passages and sometimes can be a bear to clear passages. Most times will put some fuel in the carb throat to pre prime and then start. About 1- 3 cc is the right amount for the smaller saws. The fuel and POP, will help prime your new carb, suck thru fuel, and clear the carb. So there is a difference.

For the just the rebuild..... I have had them pop off and start on 2 pulls. 1st pull primes the engine, second pull lights the fuel and off and running. But even with just a rebuild and little gas put in the carb throat will always help.

IF you get the primed fuel to pop off and then the carb fuel does not make the engine run. WELL we know know the engine works, we have spark, and good results. Prime again and see if runs.

When you have to pull a chainsaw..... 15-20 times to start..... the carb parts are stiff and do not prime the fuel as easy as new carb parts. I have a EFCO top handle saw for 14 yrs or so, purch for arobrist, spare never used saw. The saw I usually use..... but have to pull many times to start....... that means the carb needs a rebuild kit. ON MY LIST... but working like this for 4 yrs. Efco 935..... cannot even get drive sprockets, factor in CA wanted $40 and ship had 5 in USA, said I will take them all what price.... same price. NOPE and had to do ton of research to find old stock. Got a few of the sprockets now..... but will not sell the saw because no parts avail.... so I will kill this saw and them part it out or junk. I mention this because might help you with how many pull on chainsaw and why.

This is the assumption .... good compression..... fresh gas mid grade or better....... no debree in tank or lines.
 
Without knowing the make and model of saw in question there can be many variables. Some carbs have the choke built in while others have the choke mounted in the air filter. Airfilter chokes have a habit of not closing tight and often contribute to a harder starting saw, those with built in choke work better if the linkages are working as designed. Wear on the linkage can cause the choke butterfly disc not to close tightly and that causes hard starting. All things being equal in operation most of my saws will start under 5 hard complete pulls over. Kneeling on a saw and giving little tugs may take a good bit more or even a no start condition. Modern modules require a fast pull over to get a good spark at the plug.
 
For what its worth ive not had the greatest luck rebuilding carbs. Find its just worth to get a new carb instead of messing with **** thats got 100 years of build up built up in it.

That and do not run eathonal gas carbs dont like it at all
 
For what its worth ive not had the greatest luck rebuilding carbs. Find its just worth to get a new carb instead of messing with **** thats got 100 years of build up built up in it.

That and do not run eathonal gas carbs dont like it at all
Find its just worth to get a new carb instead of messing with **** thats got 100 years of build up built up in it.

AND
another good reason to try a replacement carb FIRST or eventually is quite often you are flogging what you think is a bad carb and the carb is not the problem, especially on a chainsaw engine.
 

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