How to break-in a new saw

[-e-]

My first husqvarna was a Rancher 55/20" -- got it from the factory -- it started up right away -- i've been running it hard for 6 years--kept it clean and sharp. Other than it starting to run too hot now, it's been a great saw--but too small for ripping crotches.

so for my birthday, i was given another husqvarna from the factory -- 385xp/28". this one was very difficult to start -- in fact, at first i could barely pull the cord for more than a few inches or get much shaft rotation--it loosened up after a while. however, from the time of filling w/chain oil and fresh gas/oil, this saw took almost 40 minutes of WORK to get the first sign of combustion. the blisters on my hand and the soreness of my shoulder are testimony to my struggles. this is one example of why one might want to get a saw from a dealer!

But once it rolled-over that first bit, it was easy to un-choke and get it running. i let it idle and run at varying speeds for about 15 minutes without a load. it's got a good sound to it now.

it's obvious that the saws from the factory can be very tight -- so how should i run this in the next fews hours of use? what is a good break-in protocol? some pretty large elms are coming down in the next few weeks and wonder how i should run the new saw.

i'd appreciate any suggestions
e

 

[Bob Wright]

Did you drive to the factory? Or do you got connections. Sounds like somebody's got a friend...Bob

 

[Billy_Bob]

I was told to not run my saw full out without a "load" (cutting wood) for about the first 5 tank fulls.

 

[bwalker]

Run it like you stole it.

 

[ross_scott]

so for my birthday, i was given another husqvarna from the factory -- 385xp/28". this one was very difficult to start -- in fact, at first i could barely pull the cord for more than a few inches or get much shaft rotation--it loosened up after a while. however, from the time of filling w/chain oil and fresh gas/oil, this saw took almost 40 minutes of WORK to get the first sign of combustion. the blisters on my hand and the soreness of my shoulder are testimony to my struggles. this is one example of why one might want to get a saw from a dealer!

i'd appreciate any suggestions
e

I know this sounds like a dumb question mate but did you use the decompression valve while starting the saw?

 

[-e-]

ross--not really a dumb question; there have been 'moments' when i/ve attempted to start my 55 with the power switch set to 'off' ... doesn't work! but the 55 is so good about starting that if it doesn't roll on the 3'rd pull, something is wrong.

but 'yes', i checked out everything... compression switch, pulled the plug and air cleaner, checked the choke mechanism, checked the position of the start switch....ran through all the possibilities that my level of small-engine repairs reaches.

with this saw, i can't even pull the cord without the compression switch on... could be that the compression switch wasn't working at first, and then it flooded -- but even after it started turning over more easily and letting it sit for a while, it didn't start(the easy method to resolve flooding). also, pulling the plug, releasing the throttle, and giving it a couple of pulls, reassembling everything(the harder method to resolve flooding), didn't help.

so perhaps it was just dumb-luck, but with my first saw, right out of the box, i never had any problem starting it or running it. never thought about breaking-it-in ... just used it. so with this much bigger saw that i've had difficulties right out of the box(and cost 3x as much) , i'm questioning if i should be doing something different.

 

[Patrick62]

something is/was WAY too tight in the engine. Maybe they didn't fit the piston to the cylinder correctly?? Maybe the clearances on the bearings are way off?? I doubt that the flywheel is dragging that badly, if at all.

Either way, I would not get too rough with it for awhile and watch the temp. If it starts to run hot, then that means that there is excessive friction in there.

-Pat

 

[Sizzle-Chest]

I've only run a few "new" saws, but that has never happened to me, and I have never heard of this happening. Once the gas gets through, a new saw should start and run like a new car. I would venture to say its more likely something is wrong with the saw than it needs to be broken in.

 

[pbtree]

Sometimes on a new unit, they are a bit difficult to pull gas from the tank to the carb without a bit of help...

Other than that, I suggest making sure you mix the gas correctly, and just run the darn thing - they are normally good units...

 

[ross_scott]

Give it a few tanks of gas and some good sized logs to cut up(approximately 10 hours of work) and if it is still very hard to get going (tight) then get it checked out by your nearest husky dealer as something does not sound right to me at all, I really hope that it comes right for you mate as you have one awesome saw sitting there

 

[Billy_Bob]

Starting my chainsaws, I first set it to "full choke" and press the decompression valve. When I get a partial start, I switch the choke to "half choke" and again press the decompression valve. Usually starts within a couple of pulls. (Each time I get a partial start, I again need to press the decompression valve.)

If I leave it on full choke after a partial start, it will flood.

After I have started the saw and it is warm, I restart it by setting to half choke.

 

[pinus]

I start the saw: first the full choke on untill partial start happens, then switch to the normal operation position and after some 3-4 puls saw is starting and idling

 

[12guns]

there was a thread not too long ago about running new saws as fast as possible to break them in. The guy's talking about it explained it quite well. they said none of that half throttle untill 10 tanks of gas crap. I bought a old used saw, so I can't say from experience, but you may want to search for "break in" on this site and see what you see.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

I buy at least two Modified MS66's a year and have never used the decompression valves. Many times the compression in the saw rips the started rope from your hands just becase of the way it is started. I hold my saw on the handle bar with my left hand, and motion it downward as I pull the starter rope upward. First pull with choke on (it will fire) set the choke to full throttle (pull a fulls times) and she fires right up and I start dumping trees. As far as breaking in a saw, I run them as they are for a 6 hour work day before I lean them out. The modified saws I run are set up to run in the mid 14ks. After that first day I tach my saw out at around 14,200 or 14,300 depending on the wood. I think a stock Stihl MS66 is rated for 12,500 or possibly 12,800.
My point is, don't start your saw like a girl and buy a modified Stihl.