How to fix it for dummies?

[7sleeper]

Y'all:

Well hot dog - I actually found the piston of my 340. Without out disclosing my age, I'll admit that I should have bi-focal, but don't, and it isn't as easy to see detail as it use to be. Especially if it's hard to get the right distance between me and it, and still get light.

Never the less, it looked good to me. I took some photos. For the interested, follow this link, and use the magnification thingy (that's computer jargon) and see what you think. I experimented with various light conditions - I think these two are the best.
........

Thanks!

Piston looks like new for me. Shouldn't be any trouble there. The spark arrestor isn't really clogged in any way that I would be worried, easy to clean. Good luck carb cleaning.

Important!!! If unexperienced always take a digital photo of each dismanteling step!!! You will forget, go for lunch or bring quickly the kids to school. And then your up sh€t creek without a padle.

7

 

[Cantdog]

Good Piston

Y'all:

Well hot dog - I actually found the piston of my 340. Without out disclosing my age, I'll admit that I should have bi-focal, but don't, and it isn't as easy to see detail as it use to be. Especially if it's hard to get the right distance between me and it, and still get light.

Never the less, it looked good to me. I took some photos. For the interested, follow this link, and use the magnification thingy (that's computer jargon) and see what you think. I experimented with various light conditions - I think these two are the best.

Body


Top of piston

Other observations - while it seemed to me like the piston was perfect, the port was black with kind-of sticky black goo (that's mechanical jargon). (Is that normal?)

In addition, the spark arrestor (??) was partly clogged. I wonder if it was worse, before I removed it. See:

clogged spark arrestor

Anything special I should know about cleaning up the spark arrestor? The other parts looked OK to me. (This is the link to all the pictures.)

Husqvarna 340 piston pictures

Guess the next step is to check out the compression. I'm looking to see if I can borrow/beg/steal a unit, else I just buy one. If I wind up buying one, anything I should know?

I also noted that the high rev adjustment seems to be "all the way in". Is this the "rich/lean" adjustment? Are the symptoms I'm seeing (poor power, goo on exhaust ports) consistent with something like that?

Thanks!

Your piston looks excellent. Wouldn't look any better if it were in a box at the dealer. Now, the "hi rev adjustment" being all the way in is a problem. I am not an expert and have never even looked at a 340. Does this saw have limeter caps on the hi and lo needles? In other words can you only adjust these 90 degrees or so or can you screw them in and out any number of turns? If they do not have limiter caps and the hi is screwed in all the way you will not have any hi speed capabilities. If it does not have the limiters you should take the needle all the way in, just snug (do NOT overtighten this or you will really have problems) and back it out one full turn and that should get you in the ball park for startup. Do a search on "carb ajustment" on here and you will lots of info on adjusting. If it does have the limiter caps again back the hi out until the power and revs come up. This may or may not solve your problem as you may have to remove the limiter caps to be able to get the correct amount of adjustment. Bear in mind that you do not want to adjust the hi get the highest possible revs. It wants to be rich (somewhat slower--out more) rather than lean ( as fast as it will turn--in more) Good Luck and read-read read and search search search the answers are here!!

 

[mowoodchopper]

Your 340 may not be worn out ,you may just be asking more of it than it can handle. the 340 is a 41cc saw which is really to small for bucking alot of firewood. You said the chain stops in the cut and it dosent start spinning right when you pull out of the wood, Well I cant see you saw but here is my guess on whats going on and a recommendation! Your saw is being over worked and the bar and chain are heating up and getting to tight from either or a combination of these, to much heat from over working it, not enough oil, or dull chain. IMO your just asking to much of it, it will buck up the logs but very very slowly and its gonna work the heck out of your saw. I would recommend you tune your saw up or have it tuned up and sharpen the chain.
Then use that saw for limbing, or cutting the small 3-5 inch diameter stuff.
Then go buy you a good medium size bucking saw, you seem to like huskys so Ill go with them.
1 455 rancher not a pro saw but a decent 56cc saw that will do what you ask.
2 359 an exc pro 60cc saw that would last you forever but is more money.
3 450 50cc saw that is prob the most economical of the 3 not a pro saw and its 50cc but is a world of diff in power than the 340, if you keep a sharp chain and dont push it to hard it will work fine also.

My personal pick for you if you want a husky and dont cut over 10 cord a yr and dont want to spend a pile of money would be the 455.

 

[RRSsawshop]

All good advice so far from the guys on here,but after looking a the pic of the wood a 340 should handle that!!! MOST OF IT IS SMALL 16" or less in dia.You say the chain SLOWS and then STOPS maybe your clutch is shot!! I have a 340 and it will cut that stuff with ease!!

 

[Philbert]

You say the chain SLOWS and then STOPS maybe your clutch is shot!!

+1; see my post #12

I assume that it has a spur sprocket with the integrated clutch cup/drum. I would replace the sprocket ($12 - $15) before suspecting the clutch itself.

Philbert

 

[mowoodchopper]

All good advice so far from the guys on here,but after looking a the pic of the wood a 340 should handle that!!! MOST OF IT IS SMALL 16" or less in dia.You say the chain SLOWS and then STOPS maybe your clutch is shot!! I have a 340 and it will cut that stuff with ease!!

I have to disagree, I dont have a 340 but have had a 345/350/450 and If your gonna buck 16 inch hardwood all day the 340 is underpowered! If you look at the wood in the picture there is some pretty big stuff in there too.
A 340 is a limbing saw, or an occasional firewood saw, very occasional like a few times a yr for a campout! Dont get me wrong the 340 Im sure is a nice little saw, little is the key word here. If you are gonna heat with wood and have only one saw you need a 60cc saw, I heat with wood and if all I had was my 345 , 45cc to the 340s 40cc , Id be getting a bigger saw. A 40cc saw is a good tool for firewood if you have a 60cc saw also. Myself I dont like anything smaller than a 50cc saw for limbing and small bucking and a 60-80cc saw for bucking the bigger stuff.
I know a 340 can buck 16 inch logs, but if your cutting firewood to heat your home with and you only have a 340, your gonna work you and the saw twice as hard as you need to!

 

[Double_Diamond]

No offense but you sound pretty inexperience when it comes to chainsaws. You might as well rule out the easy stuff first before tearing the saw apart and rebuilding various parts of it.

I don't think anyone has asked this yet but is your chain sharp, properly adjusted and is the bar groove clean? If the chain is dull or to tight it will easily bog in the cut. Also if there is a lot of dirt and debris built up in the bar groove the saw will bog and it will be very difficult to get the chain spinning again.

Sounds a bit like what you described...

Good luck.

 

[RRSsawshop]

I have to disagree, I dont have a 340 but have had a 345/350/450 and If your gonna buck 16 inch hardwood all day the 340 is underpowered! If you look at the wood in the picture there is some pretty big stuff in there too.
A 340 is a limbing saw, or an occasional firewood saw, very occasional like a few times a yr for a campout! Dont get me wrong the 340 Im sure is a nice little saw, little is the key word here. If you are gonna heat with wood and have only one saw you need a 60cc saw, I heat with wood and if all I had was my 345 , 45cc to the 340s 40cc , Id be getting a bigger saw. A 40cc saw is a good tool for firewood if you have a 60cc saw also. Myself I dont like anything smaller than a 50cc saw for limbing and small bucking and a 60-80cc saw for bucking the bigger stuff.
I know a 340 can buck 16 inch logs, but if your cutting firewood to heat your home with and you only have a 340, your gonna work you and the saw twice as hard as you need to!

No the 340 is a HOME OWNER SAW lol.Just kidding!! I didn't say it would do it very fast but it will do it!! YES if he is bucking 16" woood all day he should get a bigger saw like a 450 or 359.

 

[mowoodchopper]

No the 340 is a HOME OWNER SAW lol.Just kidding!! I didn't say it would do it very fast but it will do it!! YES if he is bucking 16" woood all day he should get a bigger saw like a 450 or 359.

I agree with you that the Home Owner saws from husky are great little saws, and underrated IMO. The prob I see with running a small saw like the 340 as your only saw, if you cut alot you soon lose your patience with taking it slow and start pushing the saw and that just doesn't work for the saw or you!

 

[rmh3481]

Your saw should be sufficient to do that work. Make sure you run freshly mixed fuel. Gas only stays fresh for about 6 weeks when stored in a can before it sours especially when dealing with ethanol.

Suggest you buy yourself several good spare chain loops so you can rotate them out and sharpen later. Chain is sold by pitch, gauge and bar length or driver link count. Your bar will have numbers on the side to tell you the length and the gauge. If your not sure, you can measure the chain yourself to see what exactly it is. If you need help, let me know.

Best wishes,
Bob

 

[RRSsawshop]

I agree with you that the Home Owner saws from husky are great little saws, and underrated IMO. The prob I see with running a small saw like the 340 as your only saw, if you cut alot you soon lose your patience with taking it slow and start pushing the saw and that just doesn't work for the saw or you!

EXACTLY I agree he should have a bigger saw but if a small saw is all he has at the moment then he needs to get the problem fixed,get 2 or 3 chains and have some patience,take his time.
You can learn a lot from cutting with a small saw!!! Just this spring I fell a red oak that was 38" on the stump with my 359 with a 24"bar!! Took patience!!!!!!
You can/will get hurt or worse if cutting and get frustrated and lose your patience,doesn't matter how big or small the saw is!!! A 235 will take your leg off just as good as a 3120!!!
NOW lets get back on the topic and help him get his saw fixed

 

[gink595]

A 340 can handle 16" stuff, I've used the neighbors when cutting, it's a nice saw. It's cuts stronger than my 024 and I've used it to cut 16" stuff, it is way slow though and not preferable but will get the job done if it's all you have.

 

[garmar]

I'd be interested to see some close-up picks of your cutting attachment on both sides and another of you pinching the chain and holding it up where you usually keep it for tensioning. Also, if that saw has a roller in the nose tip check to see if it rolls freely.

The reason for the pics is to see if you've smoked the bar. Is the chain getting plenty of oil? It should throw a small amount off the chain while running.

I've found through bitter experience that you need to keep all your senses alert when running a saw, and not only safety issues.

Get a service manual in the beg for manuals thread and get familiar with your saw.

You need to watch your chain regularly while you're cutting to see if it is shiny with oil. If the hole clogs you can burn up the bar very quickly. Your chain should slide along the bar smoothly for a second or so after you let off the throttle. If it comes to a sudden stop after you let off the throttle you have a problem and should stop immediately.

Flip your bar every 3-5 tanks of fuel. Keep your chain sharp and the groove and oil hole clean. Compressed air works great here as well as a small straight slot screwdriver.

Every so often you need to empty the oil tank and blow some air through the vent hole. Consult the manual as this part of regular maintenance.

Keep your air filter clean. I look at mine every tank and clean it whether it needs it or not after every cutting session.

Listen to the engine while cutting.

Is it revving super high?
Or does it growl at WOT?
There are sound files here on the site and carb adjustment tuts to get familiar with the operation.

If you hear any strange noises that are new stop immediately and figure out what the issue is; chainsaws tend to self-destruct pretty quickly if problems are left unchecked.

Try to locate fuel in your area without ethanol. This may be impossible, but at least buy premium and only mix enough for 30 days.

Don't use gas mix older than 30 days.

Buy premium mix oil and shake the gas can every time you refill.

Before you put up your saw for the season do a thorough cleaning per the operators manual and empty the gas tank and run the gas out of the line. If you do nothing else at least get that gas out of there.


That was just a few things off the top. If I've missed something one of the more experienced guys will point it out.

 

[mowoodchopper]

A 340 can handle 16" stuff, I've used the neighbors when cutting, it's a nice saw. It's cuts stronger than my 024 and I've used it to cut 16" stuff, it is way slow though and not preferable but will get the job done if it's all you have.

I noticed the same thing between 345 and a 250ms, same size saw but the 345 seemed to cut alot better than the 250. The trouble is though using a 40cc saw for bucking you have to go as slow as the saw wants and not push it, I myself dont have that kind of patience! I have also witnessed the kind of problem he is experiencing from pushing a small saw in big wood. Saw cuts slow you push it bar and chain get hot not enough oil chain gets dull and pretty soon its so hot the chain is locking up on the bar. The prob could just be his chain, you guys know as well as I do a dull chain and your trying like heck to grind through the wood is enough to get it hot enough to get a bar and chain so hot it dont wanna turn, then you have even less power , a vicious cycle!

 

[FullPython]

Working great!

Y'all:

I'm still figuring out how to watch for the forum. I didn't think anyone was still watching my thread! Guess I was wrong about that. So, here's an update.


The 340 Kicks Butt. But I have questions!


I got new fuel (The old stuff was 3+ months old). Hot highest octane. Unfortunately, everything here has ethanol in it! (Grrr).

The main fix was the carb adjustments. I had a hard time with the high adjustment. I couldn't hear changes as I dialed it in and out. I used another approach, which I've since read about in this forum: Make the adjustment, make a cut. As I've also read here, the difference between "working well" and "not working at all" was pretty fine - about 1/8 of a turn. I tried to keep it as rich as possible, and have it "work well".

Another interesting observation - I see limiters on the low adjustment. This prevents the knob from turning more then 1 revolution. I don't see any such thing on the high adjustment. Perhaps this was removed by the dealer?

Q1) What is the disadvantage to having the lo adjustment running w/higher rpm. Is this also a lean running condition that will also wear the unit out? Note - the chain is not moving at idle.

Q2) How hot should the bar get?

I was working on a 24' log with my 18' bar. Clearly, the saw wasn't designed for this sort of work, but it was doing a decent (if slow and steady) job of it. The bar and chain are new - so it's sharp and not burned out. I lube the bar tip with each tank of gas, and I clean the filter every night.

I do wonder if the bar is getting enough oil. Having said that, I find that the oil reserve is maybe 1/2 to 2/3 empty after each tank of gas. That sounds about right, no?

But, after making one of those monster 24' cuts, the bar is pretty warm. Not uncomfortable, but... (I should note that, as an amateur glass blower, my sense of hot may not be the same as everyone else...)

When I was thinking that my 340 was toast, I was dreaming of the 346xp. As it is, I think my 340 has some good work left in it. As long as it's strong, I'm going to give it a go!

Thanks for the help thus far. One happy tree-cutting camper!


MsB

 

[7sleeper]

....i got new fuel (the old stuff was 3+ months old). [good idea! ] hot highest octane. Unfortunately, everything here has ethanol in it! (grrr).
.......
I was working on a 24' log with my 18' bar. Clearly, the saw wasn't designed for this sort of work, but it was doing a decent (if slow and steady) job of it. The bar and chain are new - so it's sharp and not burned out. I lube the bar tip with each tank of gas, and i clean the filter every night.

I do wonder if the bar is getting enough oil. Having said that, i find that the oil reserve is maybe 1/2 to 2/3 empty after each tank of gas. That sounds about right, no?[absolutly!]

but, after making one of those monster 24' cuts, the bar is pretty warm. [monster cuts are usually a reason for heat and early saw death if you exagerate to much] not uncomfortable, but... (i should note that, as an amateur glass blower, my sense of hot may not be the same as everyone else...)

when i was thinking that my 340 was toast, i was dreaming of the 346xp. As it is, i think my 340 has some good work left in it. As long as it's strong, i'm going to give it a go![that sure sounds like it! Happy that you solved all of the problems]
msb

7

 

[RRSsawshop]

Great to see you got the problem fixed,I just hate it when you have a problem and turn here for answers and they tell you to buy a BIGGER saw,or you need a new saw,BURNS ME UP!!!! Remember just take your time cutting dont rush let the saw do the work and keep the chain sharp.
now find the MUFFLER thread on here and mod that 340

 

[rupedoggy]

A 235 will take your leg off just as good as a 3120!!!

And you know this how?

 

[RRSsawshop]

A 235 will take your leg off just as good as a 3120!!!

And you know this how?

"Well you know its only a little saw it wont bite that bad" :monkey: