Naked Arborist
Hack from way back.
I use the same system as Del does. IMHO it is the safest way to go.
I can get more than enough pull to rip a tree over. I have on purpose ripped down an 18" at chest height healthy well rooted red oak with a 130 shot of 1" double braided no coring line. Yes it is braided all the way through. I have to rate it at at least 30,000 or better. Yes it did snap the tree off about 10 ft up
. Just practicing and testing the load potential of the gear.
I would only use a running bowline knot on any connection that is going to see high loads. They always can be untied. If the line is not long enough to make the double pulley setup I use a piece of 1" double braid double wrapped to avoid a barber chair split in the trunk. I use a 1/2 ton pu with a front differential locker bridled up off of the front tow hooks. The key to a good hard pull is to set your block lower than the truck tie on point and use a chain or heavy choker strap for attaching the block(s) to your anchor point. If I can not use the truck a good quality come-a-long is all that is needed. I prefer to use the truck and have run out more than 300ft of line to reach it. Nothing like being on concrete or pavement to be sure of your traction point if you have any close by. Avoid as in NEVER pulling anything with a truck when driving over leaves or mulch. Yea, I know but, had to say it.
Most times the tree just needs to be persuaded a bit with a light pull after the notch and most of the back cut is completed. The insurance of using a good rope and block system is much safer than just wedging it over. If something stands to be crushed or wrecked just get the blocks and ropes out and be safe!
1. Set up your rigging.
2. Check with a good firm pull.
3. Release and load slightly.
4. Go make your notch.
5. Put a fairly light load on the line.
6. Have an escape route and make your back cut.
7. If it has not fell yet gently pull it over.
This is all relative to feel and experience. If you pull TOO HARD on the load (5) it will barber-chair right up the middle almost guaranteed. If too light of a pull you will lay the tree over even worse when the line stretch is taken up by the tree weight. This is something you should only try if you have the time to train yourself on some trees that do not need to be pulled. This will help you get a feel for what needs to be done as far as how much is too much load on the line.
Good Luck
Be SAFE!!!
I can get more than enough pull to rip a tree over. I have on purpose ripped down an 18" at chest height healthy well rooted red oak with a 130 shot of 1" double braided no coring line. Yes it is braided all the way through. I have to rate it at at least 30,000 or better. Yes it did snap the tree off about 10 ft up
. Just practicing and testing the load potential of the gear.I would only use a running bowline knot on any connection that is going to see high loads. They always can be untied. If the line is not long enough to make the double pulley setup I use a piece of 1" double braid double wrapped to avoid a barber chair split in the trunk. I use a 1/2 ton pu with a front differential locker bridled up off of the front tow hooks. The key to a good hard pull is to set your block lower than the truck tie on point and use a chain or heavy choker strap for attaching the block(s) to your anchor point. If I can not use the truck a good quality come-a-long is all that is needed. I prefer to use the truck and have run out more than 300ft of line to reach it. Nothing like being on concrete or pavement to be sure of your traction point if you have any close by. Avoid as in NEVER pulling anything with a truck when driving over leaves or mulch. Yea, I know but, had to say it.
Most times the tree just needs to be persuaded a bit with a light pull after the notch and most of the back cut is completed. The insurance of using a good rope and block system is much safer than just wedging it over. If something stands to be crushed or wrecked just get the blocks and ropes out and be safe!
1. Set up your rigging.
2. Check with a good firm pull.
3. Release and load slightly.
4. Go make your notch.
5. Put a fairly light load on the line.
6. Have an escape route and make your back cut.
7. If it has not fell yet gently pull it over.
This is all relative to feel and experience. If you pull TOO HARD on the load (5) it will barber-chair right up the middle almost guaranteed. If too light of a pull you will lay the tree over even worse when the line stretch is taken up by the tree weight. This is something you should only try if you have the time to train yourself on some trees that do not need to be pulled. This will help you get a feel for what needs to be done as far as how much is too much load on the line.
Good Luck
Be SAFE!!!
