how to transplant a japanese maple

[rshadeck]

As the saying goes, "there is no such thing as a dumb question", so here goes. I'd like to transplant a Japanese Maple as it is being suffocated by its "neighbors".

As it's approx. 10-11 Ft tall, 10" in circumference at its base and then splits into 2-members which are about 4-5" in diameter, am I foolhardy thinking this is something I can do w/o the assistance of a professional.

As I understand it, transplanting is a VERY "iffy" issue, and even going to a Pro is not a guarantee of getting favorable results.

Any tips, advise, do's & dont's are most welcome.

Many thanks - - Ron S ...

 

[NickfromWI]

First question I'd have is, what's shading it out? Can that be trimmed back?

But...that's not why you came here.

Yes it can be done, there are many things you can do to increase your chances.

When you move the tree, bring as much of it's old home to it's new home as possible. This sounds like a job you might can undertake (pardon use of that term!) The tree is not humungous. WIthout soil, you could probably lift it with one hand. BUTTTTT, don't move it without the soil! Cut out as big of a chuck of the soil as you can. And go as deep as you can.

Prep the new area. Put it somewhere that is quite similar to where it is now. Facing the same way. If you take it out from under the other trees and put it in the middle of the yard....that might just shock the tree.

What are you plans? How might you attack it? Tell us what you have in mind and we'll see if we can shape your plan in to something that just might work...

love
nick

 

[Elmore]

Japanese Maples should be easy to move, fibrous root systems. Measure the stem or trunk diameter about 6" above the soil line. If 4" or bigger measure at 12" above soil line. Figure a root ball diameter of 12" per inch of measure of trunk. If you trunk diameter is two inches your root ball would be 24" across. Take measurements and dig a narrow trench around each plant, 2/3 as deep as the diameter of your root ball. Sever the remaining roots, under the plant and place the root ball on a burlap or sheet to enable you to handle it. Try to keep as much soil intact as possible. Drag it or preferably lift it onto a wheeled contraption and transport it to it's new site. If you can't plant it immediately you should wrap the ball with the fabric, put the plant in a sheltered area and spray water on it frequently. You should prepare a new planting hole after you have taken measurements and before you have dug the plants. Transplant at the same depth or slightly higher, water very well and mulch. Keep an eye on them and water regularly until established. Possibly two years. Get as much root and soil intact and transplant in a timely fashion.
The above info was copied from another post and modified slightly. You may need some equipment to move a tree that size although the pyramids were constructed with out such. If dug by hand I would probably do it when dormant, the tree not you. It can be successfully moved with a tree spade in mid-summer if done carefully, transplanted in a timely fashion and given proper after care. In the case of using a mechanical tree spade, it should not be done when actively growing. Mid-summer, in fall after abscission or in late winter/early spring before bud swell are good times.

 

[treeseer]

I'm with Nick; first look to cut back the trees around it. If it's 10" at the base, you're going to have to move a LOT of dirt, and hope the root ball stays together in the process. nOt as easy for homeowners as it is for a pro like Elmore.

 

[vharrison2]

I would recommend root prunning 6 weeks prior to moving.

 

[rshadeck]

To all ...

As none of you have said this is a foolish venture for a rookie, I'm going to give it a shot using the info. you've given me. It certainly sounds like the most important element is trying to maintain a significant size to the root ball. If that "white stuff" called snow weren't forecast for this weekend I'd be up to this tomorrow. For now I'll have to put this off to next weekend.

Thanks for your info. I will follow up w/you after the project is complete. Ron S ..

 

[NickfromWI]

Take some pictures for us!

Is the ground frozen over there? You're gonna have to dig sorta deep.

love
nick

 

[jason j ladue]

i trans-planted a jap maple (acer palmatum) last week. sounds about the same size as the one you are proposing to move. was outgrowing it's space- was right up against a house only a few feet from the eves. it was leaning over trying to find some room. i wonder how its doing. i took a rootball about three feet in diameter. it was heavier than i thought it would be. i moved it to the back yard egyptian style. used two planks (2x10s)and two rollers. bound the root ball w/ a tarp and twine. rolled it onto a piece of 3/4 plywood- 3'x3' wich was already on the rollers (an old rake handle sawed in two) which of course were already on the plank. pushed -laying on it's side, roots first) straight back to it's destination, about 40' away. luckily i didnt have to maneuver any corners. have at least one assistant- particularly if you will be moving over any kind of incline. have a come-along too; that's how i got the bugger out of it's original hole in the first place. use some vitamin-b complex solution after the move is complete to to help prompt new root growth. this should be a pretty good time of year for the move as the tree should have just started to sprout new foliage- which means the new root growth is also just getting started. keep it well watered. dont allow it too much direct sunlight during the first coulple weeks, if possible...i will be posting pictures of my patient as soon as my camera gets back from manufacturer repair.good luck, jason

 

[NickfromWI]

Heck yeah! Treat it like a bonsai! After all, japanese maple is a common specie to bonsai.

I used to always read about vitamin-b application in the bonsai books! Good idea, White Snoop Dogg!

love
nick

 

[Elmore]

Based on your measurements you technically need a root ball that is at least 90". Look for a tree transplating firm with a Big John.
<img src="http://www.nurseryman.com/equipment/pics01/mason-80b-tree-spade.jpg">

 

[jason j ladue]

elmore, are you sure about that? a 7-1/2 rootball for a tree thats ten feet tall. the circumfrence of the trunk is only 10". sorry. you know i dont mean to question your judgement- after all i am the one who contacted you for advice on my tree. but i wonder if you may have miscalculated something. i have seen a smaller ball than that on trees 30' tall dbh 8"...jj

 

[rshadeck]

Elmore- I was a little surprised w/ your 7-1/2 rootball size too. Using your earlier formula I was coming up w/ somewhere closer to 4' in diameter. I'd go out & do some closer measuring, but there's about 8" of that blasted "white stuff" out there again.

JJ- Appreciated your insight on how to go about this project too. I'm glad you mentioned the "egyptian" movement method. I used it once about 8-years ago to move railroad ties up a 30-degree incline ( solo ) and it worked GREAT. I had forgotten all about it until yesterday reading your post. After checking out your profile you'd be interested to know that my 150-year old farmhouse was the original homestead for an 80-acre fruit farm that is still operating . You and your grandfather would probably have enjoyed it here.

Again, thanks for the info. I'll be checking back in once this snow melts and it warms up here on the shores of Lake Erie.

Later - - Ron S...

 

[Elmore]

You said that it had two trunks each measuring 4" to 5". Therefore this is an 8" to 10" caliper tree.
The formula is 12" rootball for every inch of caliper of tree. Caliper is diameter and the 12" is also diameter of rootball measured across at the soil line. You may can get by with a smaller ball so long as it is transplanted right away and you water it, slowly, deeply and at first, frequently. Also transplant a little high as a heavy rootball will settle.

 

[jason j ladue]

here are some pics of that little maple i moved. just got my camera back yesterday. i see that most of the leaves still have the red hue around the edges like the same color as when they are sprouting. the foilage at the very top though is normally developed bright green. other specimens in the area are all that same bright green throughout the canopy. elmore any input here?

 

[jason j ladue]

i dont have any before and after pics, but in these you can see where it was and where it is now...

 

[Elmore]

here are some pics of that little maple i moved. just got my camera back yesterday. i see that most of the leaves still have the red hue around the edges like the same color as when they are sprouting. the foilage at the very top though is normally developed bright green. other specimens in the area are all that same bright green throughout the canopy. elmore any input here?

It looks good for now but looking at the third picture I have a concern that it may be planted to deeply. Without being there I can't be sure. You check...the topmost roots should not be covered with much more than 1/4 inch of mineral soil. Check it and keep an eye on it as large root balls generally settle deeper with time. Oh yeah...your balls are under sized heh heh. I told a friend of mine, an excellent horticulturist from KY that is currently in charge of the grounds and facilities at the University of Alabama Huntsville, about your 3 foot diameter root ball and he was amazed that a tree man would not know the formula... you know 12" root ball diameter for every inch tree caliper.

 

[jason j ladue]

the diameter of that trunk is less than 4" so i think the ball was probly just about the right size. i and i was kind of wonering if it might not be buried a little deep too. it has settled a little already. it has been raining like crazy here. i was poking around it today to see how everything was and the top of the rootplate is less that an " in the earth. i will keep an eye on it. i'm not quite sure what to think about you and yer buddies talkin about my balls... :blob5:

 

[Elmore]

i'm not quite sure what to think about you and yer buddies talkin about my balls... :blob5:

Well to tell you the truth all this time we never thought you had any, yuk yuk.
Back to the maple, you might want to raise it up once it dries out a bit. It is better to plant a Japanese Maple a little high as planting just a little too deep is a sure death sentence for one. Some would point out the apparent lack of a flare or taper at the base of the trunk but on a small tree it is not so apparent. On your tree, at that size, you should see a bit of flare. The long and short of it is that I would bet that your tree is transplanted too deeply.
Here is a link to my friend, Robert's web page. It may be of interest to all with an interest in ornamental trees and urban forestry : http://www.uah.edu/admin/Fac/grounds/

 

[jason j ladue]

well i guess only time will tell. at this point it is actually seated slightly higher than where it was before. and it is hard to see in that photo, but the trunk has a bit of flare to it before it goes into the ground. i will certainly check it again before next fall. thanks for the feedback...jj